An electric dryer can tumble with only one side of its 240-volt supply present. Check cycle settings, both breaker poles and airflow before assuming the heating element failed. Check whether the double-pole breaker has tripped fully and reset it once; a qualified person should check the outlet voltage.
What this covers
- Dryers · electric heat
What it does not cover
Differential
Likely causes of “Electric dryer runs but does not heat”, and how to tell them apart
- 1
One leg of the 240-volt supply is missing
What separates it The drum turns and the controls work but the air stays cold, and a breaker pole may have tripped or a fuse blown.
How to confirm Check whether the double-pole breaker has tripped fully and reset it once; a qualified person should check the outlet voltage.
- 2
A cycle or setting has heat turned off
What separates it An Air Fluff or No-Heat setting is selected on the control.
How to confirm Run Timed Dry on normal heat and note whether the air is cold or briefly warm.
- 3
Restricted exhaust is tripping a thermal cut-out
What separates it The dryer heated for a while and then stopped heating, and the vent is weak.
How to confirm Check airflow at the outside hood and clean the lint screen.
- 4
A failed heating element or thermal fuse
What separates it No heat with normal supply and airflow, and the breaker is fine.
How to confirm This is internal testing that belongs to service.
Before you touch a setting
Record this first — changing settings destroys the evidence
- Whether the air is completely cold or briefly warm.
- Whether the breaker has tripped, and whether it is a double-pole breaker.
- Whether the airflow at the outside hood is strong.
Try in this order
0 of 4 completedObserve before changing anything
ReversibleUse Timed Dry on normal heat and note whether air is completely cold or briefly warm.
Isolate the failing boundary
ReversibleReset the double-pole breaker once and have the outlet voltage checked if one supply leg is missing.
Apply the narrow correction
ReversibleCorrect the electrical supply or vent restriction; internal heater and thermostat testing belongs to service.
Verify the result and stop at the boundary
ReversibleStop for breaker trips, hot plugs, arcing or damaged cords.
Stop boundary
When this stops being a self-service repair
- !Stop for breaker trips, hot plugs, arcing or damaged cords and call a qualified electrician or the maker's service.
- !Internal heater and thermostat testing belongs to service.
Evidence ledger
Sources behind this answer
Exact questions
Common questions
Why does my electric dryer spin but not heat?+
The motor runs on one leg of the supply, but the heater needs both. A tripped breaker pole, a blown fuse or a failed heater or thermal fuse are common causes.
Why does my electric dryer tumble but not heat?+
A half-tripped double breaker still gives the 120 volts for the motor but not the 240 volts the element needs. Switch both halves of the breaker off and on. Next suspects are the thermal fuse, the high-limit thermostat and the heating element.
How do I test the thermal fuse?+
Unplug the dryer, find the fuse on the blower housing or exhaust duct, and test it for continuity with a multimeter. No continuity means it has blown, usually because the vent is clogged, so fix the vent too.
Why does it tumble but not heat?+
One leg of the 240 volt supply may be missing, or the heating element or thermal fuse has failed.
Should I check the breaker?+
Check both breaker poles and reset.
Is this safe to fix myself?+
Only with power off and proper training.