TP-Link's slow-internet article gives the wireless levers that also cure dropouts. Position the router in the open, not covered, not in a confined space and not in direct sunlight, since overheating causes trouble. Change the wireless channel and channel width in the router settings: for 2.4 GHz try 40 MHz, and for 5 GHz try 80 MHz or 160 MHz, because interference from neighboring networks makes wifi unstable.
The checks in more detail
Test with the router and the device six to nine feet apart with nothing between them and on the same horizontal plane, so you learn whether the wireless itself is at fault. Restart the modem for two to three minutes and then the router, powering the modem on first. Disable QoS and Parental Controls to rule out those settings. TP-Link also has a separate router unstable connection guide. Check whether all devices drop or only one, watch the LEDs and keep firmware current. If only one device drops, forget the network on it and update its wireless driver.
If all devices drop at once, look at the modem and the Internet LED. A router that overheats will drop connections, so give it air. Watch whether the drops line up with something in the house, such as the microwave, a cordless phone or a neighbor's peak hours, since a pattern is far easier to fix than a mystery, and a written log of times costs nothing. If drops began after a firmware update, note the version and the date, since that is the first thing TP-Link support will ask for.
Another useful test is to walk a phone playing a video around the home, noting where it buffers; a stall at the same spot each time is a placement or wall problem, while random stalls point to interference or the connection. Look at the router's system log if the model offers one, because a repeated entry at each drop, such as a WAN reconnect, tells you whether the wireless or the internet side is failing.
Differential
Likely causes of “TP-Link Archer routers Wi-Fi keeps disconnecting”, and how to tell them apart
- 1
Interference
What separates it The wifi drops at busy times because of interference from other networks
How to confirm Change the channel and the channel width in the router's wireless settings
- 2
Overheating
What separates it The wifi drops and slows because the router is overheating in a confined space
How to confirm Uncover the router and move it to the open, away from direct sunlight
- 3
A device fault
What separates it Only one device drops because that device has a fault of its own
How to confirm Update the driver for the device's wifi adapter, and check its power saving settings
- 4
A modem fault
What separates it All devices drop because the modem has a fault
How to confirm Restart the modem and the router, waiting two to three minutes with the modem off first
- 5
Old firmware
What separates it The wifi drops at random because the router is running old firmware
How to confirm Update the firmware, and then watch whether the drops have stopped
Before you touch a setting
Record this first — changing settings destroys the evidence
- Which devices drop out, and at what times of day
- What the Internet light shows when a drop happens
- The firmware version that the router shows
Try in this order
0 of 7 completedPosition the router
ReversiblePosition the router in the open and uncovered, and not in a confined space or in direct sun.
Change the channel
ReversibleChange the channel and the width, using 40 MHz on 2.4 GHz and 80 or 160 MHz on 5 GHz.
Restart in order
ReversibleRestart in order, switching the modem off for two to three minutes, and powering it on first.
Disable QoS and Parental Controls
ReversibleDisable QoS and Parental Controls as a test, to see whether they are causing the drops.
Update firmware
ReversibleUpdate the firmware on the router and the driver on the device that drops out.
Test close up
ReversibleTest close up, standing six to nine feet from the router with nothing between you.
Check the Internet LED
ReversibleCheck the Internet light during a drop, since it shows whether the internet itself failed.
Model-specific
What is true of this model and not of its siblings
- Bands
- The Archer AX73, AX55 and AXE75 are Wi-Fi 6 or 6E; the BE900 and BE550 are Wi-Fi 7.
- Antennas
- External-antenna models can be adjusted for coverage.
- Other models this page answers
- These steps also fit the Archer BE550 Wi-Fi 7 router, Archer AXE75 router, Archer AX73 router, Archer AX55 router.
Stop boundary
When this stops being a self-service repair
- !If all devices drop on Ethernet too, check the modem and contact TP-Link support
- !If only one device drops, check its wifi driver and its power settings
- !If the router is hot, replace the adapter or router
Evidence ledger
Sources behind this answer
Modem test, channel width, QoS and overheating.
RJ45 cable, modem test and WAN port test.
Internet IP, MAC clone and LAN IP.
The company and its products.
Exact questions
Common questions
What width for 2.4 GHz?+
TP-Link says a 40 MHz width helps on the 2.4 GHz band when there is interference.
Should I cover the router?+
No, do not cover the router, since a covered router can overheat and slow down.
How long for the modem restart?+
Leave the modem off for two to three minutes, and then turn it on again.
Which powers on first?+
Power on the modem first, and then the router, so the router gets its address.
Can QoS cause drops?+
QoS can cause drops, so disable it as a test to see if it makes a difference.
How far for a test?+
Stand six to nine feet from the router for a fair test, with nothing between you.
What if one device drops?+
If only one device drops, check its wifi driver and its power saving settings.
Which channel widths help on 5 GHz?+
TP-Link says 80 MHz or 160 MHz widths help on the 5 GHz band, which gives faster speeds at short range.
Does covering the router matter?+
Yes, a covered router can overheat and slow down, so leave it in the open with air around it.
Which cable does TP-Link suggest between the modem and router?+
TP-Link suggests a Cat6 cable or better between the modem and the router, for the best speed.