Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop error codes

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 10

Listed as right rear element Down key is defective.

Disconnect power. Test wire harness cables and connections. If the connections are good, replace the right-side touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness cable between the right-side touch control board and the rest of the cooktop: Code 10 appears and the right rear element Down key does nothing or acts intermittently. Disconnect power and test the harness cables and connections that run to the right-side board
• A failed right-side touch control board, which the chart replaces for the right rear Down key: The harness is good and the right rear element Down key still reports as defective. The chart replaces the right-side touch control board when the connections test good
• Spilled liquid or cooking residue on the glass over the right rear Down key: The key fails after a boil-over or after wiping the glass and the area is damp or sticky. Clean and dry the glass over the key, wait, and try it again before opening the cooktop
• A wider fault on the right-side board that also affects the other keys it serves (codes 10, 11, 12, 14, 15 and 16): Other keys on the right-side of the cooktop are also dead, erratic or reporting their own codes. Try every key on that side and note which ones fail before you decide

The right-side touch control board sits under the glass and connects to the main power control board, so switch the cooktop breaker off first and give the electronics time to settle.

The chart's first check for code 10 is the harness. Reseat each connector, look for a cable that is pinched, cut or burnt, and repair or replace any damaged cable before you buy a board.

The chart names the electronic control board and replaces the right-side touch control board for code 10. Order the board by the full model number so the software matches the cooktop's other boards.

Code 10: right rear element Down key defective (790 model induction cooktop table).

Electronic control board; the right-side touch control board is the one replaced.

A multimeter for connection checks and a screwdriver or nut driver; a helper to lift the glass top.

What happens if the right rear Down key does not work? Our reading of what the key does: the power level cannot be lowered from the key, so an element can stay hotter than you want. Use the On/Off key or the main Power key to turn the element off rather than trying to turn it down.

Do not leave a hot pan on the right rear element if it cannot be switched off from its key; use the main Power key to shut the cooktop down

Stop and disconnect power if the glass is cracked, because liquid can reach the boards

Have an electrician or service technician open the cooktop, because the boards carry mains voltage

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 11

Listed as right rear element Up key is defective.

Disconnect power. Test wire harness cables and connections. If the connections are good, replace the right-side touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness cable between the right-side touch control board and the rest of the cooktop: Code 11 appears and the right rear element Up key does nothing or acts intermittently. Disconnect power and test the harness cables and connections that run to the right-side board
• A failed right-side touch control board, which the chart replaces for the right rear Up key: The harness is good and the right rear element Up key still reports as defective. The chart replaces the right-side touch control board when the connections test good
• Spilled liquid or cooking residue on the glass over the right rear Up key: The key fails after a boil-over or after wiping the glass and the area is damp or sticky. Clean and dry the glass over the key, wait, and try it again before opening the cooktop
• A wider fault on the right-side board that also affects the other keys it serves (codes 10, 11, 12, 14, 15 and 16): Other keys on the right-side of the cooktop are also dead, erratic or reporting their own codes. Try every key on that side and note which ones fail before you decide

Code 11: right rear element Up key defective (790 model induction cooktop table).

What happens if the right rear Up key does not work? Our reading of what the key does: the power level cannot be raised from the key, so an element may stay at a lower setting than you want. Set the level with the other keys on that element and expect to cook more slowly until the board is replaced.

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 12

Listed as right rear element On/Off key is defective.

Disconnect power. Test wire harness cables and connections. If the connections are good, replace the right-side touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness cable between the right-side touch control board and the rest of the cooktop: Code 12 appears and the right rear element On/Off key does nothing or acts intermittently. Disconnect power and test the harness cables and connections that run to the right-side board
• A failed right-side touch control board, which the chart replaces for the right rear On/Off key: The harness is good and the right rear element On/Off key still reports as defective. The chart replaces the right-side touch control board when the connections test good
• Spilled liquid or cooking residue on the glass over the right rear On/Off key: The key fails after a boil-over or after wiping the glass and the area is damp or sticky. Clean and dry the glass over the key, wait, and try it again before opening the cooktop
• A wider fault on the right-side board that also affects the other keys it serves (codes 10, 11, 12, 14, 15 and 16): Other keys on the right-side of the cooktop are also dead, erratic or reporting their own codes. Try every key on that side and note which ones fail before you decide

Code 12: right rear element On/Off key defective (790 model induction cooktop table).

What happens if the right rear On/Off key does not work? Our reading of what the key does: the element cannot be started or stopped from its own key. Use the main Power key to turn everything off, and do not leave a hot pan on an element you cannot switch off.

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 14

Listed as right front element Down key is defective.

Disconnect power. Test wire harness cables and connections. If the connections are good, replace the right-side touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness cable between the right-side touch control board and the rest of the cooktop: Code 14 appears and the right front element Down key does nothing or acts intermittently. Disconnect power and test the harness cables and connections that run to the right-side board
• A failed right-side touch control board, which the chart replaces for the right front Down key: The harness is good and the right front element Down key still reports as defective. The chart replaces the right-side touch control board when the connections test good
• Spilled liquid or cooking residue on the glass over the right front Down key: The key fails after a boil-over or after wiping the glass and the area is damp or sticky. Clean and dry the glass over the key, wait, and try it again before opening the cooktop
• A wider fault on the right-side board that also affects the other keys it serves (codes 10, 11, 12, 14, 15 and 16): Other keys on the right-side of the cooktop are also dead, erratic or reporting their own codes. Try every key on that side and note which ones fail before you decide

Code 14: right front element Down key defective (790 model induction cooktop table).

What happens if the right front Down key does not work? Our reading of what the key does: the power level cannot be lowered from the key, so an element can stay hotter than you want. Use the On/Off key or the main Power key to turn the element off rather than trying to turn it down.

Do not leave a hot pan on the right front element if it cannot be switched off from its key; use the main Power key to shut the cooktop down

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 15

Listed as right front element Up key is defective.

Disconnect power. Test wire harness cables and connections. If the connections are good, replace the right-side touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness cable between the right-side touch control board and the rest of the cooktop: Code 15 appears and the right front element Up key does nothing or acts intermittently. Disconnect power and test the harness cables and connections that run to the right-side board
• A failed right-side touch control board, which the chart replaces for the right front Up key: The harness is good and the right front element Up key still reports as defective. The chart replaces the right-side touch control board when the connections test good
• Spilled liquid or cooking residue on the glass over the right front Up key: The key fails after a boil-over or after wiping the glass and the area is damp or sticky. Clean and dry the glass over the key, wait, and try it again before opening the cooktop
• A wider fault on the right-side board that also affects the other keys it serves (codes 10, 11, 12, 14, 15 and 16): Other keys on the right-side of the cooktop are also dead, erratic or reporting their own codes. Try every key on that side and note which ones fail before you decide

Code 15: right front element Up key defective (790 model induction cooktop table).

What happens if the right front Up key does not work? Our reading of what the key does: the power level cannot be raised from the key, so an element may stay at a lower setting than you want. Set the level with the other keys on that element and expect to cook more slowly until the board is replaced.

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 16

Listed as right front element On/Off key is defective.

Disconnect power. Test wire harness cables and connections. If the connections are good, replace the right-side touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness cable between the right-side touch control board and the rest of the cooktop: Code 16 appears and the right front element On/Off key does nothing or acts intermittently. Disconnect power and test the harness cables and connections that run to the right-side board
• A failed right-side touch control board, which the chart replaces for the right front On/Off key: The harness is good and the right front element On/Off key still reports as defective. The chart replaces the right-side touch control board when the connections test good
• Spilled liquid or cooking residue on the glass over the right front On/Off key: The key fails after a boil-over or after wiping the glass and the area is damp or sticky. Clean and dry the glass over the key, wait, and try it again before opening the cooktop
• A wider fault on the right-side board that also affects the other keys it serves (codes 10, 11, 12, 14, 15 and 16): Other keys on the right-side of the cooktop are also dead, erratic or reporting their own codes. Try every key on that side and note which ones fail before you decide

Code 16: right front element On/Off key defective (790 model induction cooktop table).

What happens if the right front On/Off key does not work? Our reading of what the key does: the element cannot be started or stopped from its own key. Use the main Power key to turn everything off, and do not leave a hot pan on an element you cannot switch off.

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 2

Listed as left front element Down key is defective.

Disconnect power. Test wire harness cables and connections. If the connections are good, replace the left-side touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness cable between the left-side touch control board and the rest of the cooktop: Code 2 appears and the left front element Down key does nothing or acts intermittently. Disconnect power and test the harness cables and connections that run to the left-side board
• A failed left-side touch control board, which the chart replaces for the left front Down key: The harness is good and the left front element Down key still reports as defective. The chart replaces the left-side touch control board when the connections test good
• Spilled liquid or cooking residue on the glass over the left front Down key: The key fails after a boil-over or after wiping the glass and the area is damp or sticky. Clean and dry the glass over the key, wait, and try it again before opening the cooktop
• A wider fault on the left-side board that also affects the other keys it serves (codes 2, 3, 4, 6, 7 and 8): Other keys on the left-side of the cooktop are also dead, erratic or reporting their own codes. Try every key on that side and note which ones fail before you decide

The left-side touch control board sits under the glass and connects to the main power control board, so switch the cooktop breaker off first and give the electronics time to settle.

The chart's first check for code 2 is the harness. Reseat each connector, look for a cable that is pinched, cut or burnt, and repair or replace any damaged cable before you buy a board.

The chart names the electronic control board and replaces the left-side touch control board for code 2. Order the board by the full model number so the software matches the cooktop's other boards.

Code 2: left front element Down key defective (790 model induction cooktop table).

Electronic control board; the left-side touch control board is the one replaced.

What happens if the left front Down key does not work? Our reading of what the key does: the power level cannot be lowered from the key, so an element can stay hotter than you want. Use the On/Off key or the main Power key to turn the element off rather than trying to turn it down.

Do the other left front element keys have the same code? No. Each key has its own code; the keys handled by the same board are 2, 3, 4, 6, 7 and 8, and the chart gives all of them the same repair.

Do not leave a hot pan on the left front element if it cannot be switched off from its key; use the main Power key to shut the cooktop down

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 21

Listed as timer Down key is defective.

Disconnect power. Test wire harness cables and connections. If the connections are good, replace the center touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness cable between the center touch control board and the rest of the cooktop: Code 21 appears and the Timer Down key does nothing or works only sometimes. Disconnect power and test the harness cables and connections that run to the center board
• A failed center touch control board, which the chart replaces for the Timer Down key: The harness is good and the Timer Down key still reports as defective. The chart replaces the center touch control board when the connections test good
• Spilled liquid or cooking residue on the glass over the Timer Down key: The key fails after a boil-over and the glass near it is damp or sticky. Clean and dry the glass over the key, wait, and try it again before opening the cooktop
• A wider fault on the center board that also affects the keys it serves (codes 21, 22, 23, 24 and 25): Other center keys such as Timer, Warm, Lock and Power are also dead or erratic. Try each center key and note which ones fail before you decide

The center touch control board sits under the glass and connects to the main power control board, so switch the cooktop breaker off first.

The chart's first check for code 21 is the harness. Reseat each connector and repair or replace any cable that is pinched, cut or burnt, before you buy a board. The timer keys share the same center board as Timer Up, Warm, Lock and Power.

The chart names the electronic control board and replaces the center touch control board for code 21. Order it by the full model number.

Code 21: Timer Down key defective (790 model induction cooktop table).

Electronic control board; the center touch control board is the one replaced.

A multimeter for connection checks and a screwdriver or nut driver.

What do I lose while the Timer Down key is dead? Our reading of what the key does: The timer cannot be set lower from the key, so a set time may have to be cleared by turning the timer off or cancelling it.

The timer cannot be set lower from the key, so a set time may have to be cleared by turning the timer off or cancelling it

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 22

Listed as timer Up key is defective.

Disconnect power. Test wire harness cables and connections. If the connections are good, replace the center touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness cable between the center touch control board and the rest of the cooktop: Code 22 appears and the Timer Up key does nothing or works only sometimes. Disconnect power and test the harness cables and connections that run to the center board
• A failed center touch control board, which the chart replaces for the Timer Up key: The harness is good and the Timer Up key still reports as defective. The chart replaces the center touch control board when the connections test good
• Spilled liquid or cooking residue on the glass over the Timer Up key: The key fails after a boil-over and the glass near it is damp or sticky. Clean and dry the glass over the key, wait, and try it again before opening the cooktop
• A wider fault on the center board that also affects the keys it serves (codes 21, 22, 23, 24 and 25): Other center keys such as Timer, Warm, Lock and Power are also dead or erratic. Try each center key and note which ones fail before you decide

The chart's first check for code 22 is the harness. Reseat each connector and repair or replace any cable that is pinched, cut or burnt, before you buy a board. Try the Timer Down key too; both timer keys go through this board.

Code 22: Timer Up key defective (790 model induction cooktop table).

What do I lose while the Timer Up key is dead? Our reading of what the key does: The timer cannot be set from the key, so cooking has to be timed with a separate kitchen timer until the board is replaced.

The timer cannot be set from the key, so cooking has to be timed with a separate kitchen timer until the board is replaced

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 23

Listed as warm (Keep Warm) key is defective.

Disconnect power. Test wire harness cables and connections. If the connections are good, replace the center touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness cable between the center touch control board and the rest of the cooktop: Code 23 appears and the Warm (Keep Warm) key does nothing or works only sometimes. Disconnect power and test the harness cables and connections that run to the center board
• A failed center touch control board, which the chart replaces for the Warm (Keep Warm) key: The harness is good and the Warm (Keep Warm) key still reports as defective. The chart replaces the center touch control board when the connections test good
• Spilled liquid or cooking residue on the glass over the Warm (Keep Warm) key: The key fails after a boil-over and the glass near it is damp or sticky. Clean and dry the glass over the key, wait, and try it again before opening the cooktop
• A wider fault on the center board that also affects the keys it serves (codes 21, 22, 23, 24 and 25): Other center keys such as Timer, Warm, Lock and Power are also dead or erratic. Try each center key and note which ones fail before you decide

The chart's first check for code 23 is the harness. Reseat each connector and repair or replace any cable that is pinched, cut or burnt, before you buy a board. Test whether the Warm key responds after you clean the glass.

Code 23: Warm (Keep Warm) key defective (790 model induction cooktop table).

What do I lose while the Warm (Keep Warm) key is dead? Our reading of what the key does: The keep warm setting cannot be started from the key, so food must be held warm another way, such as a low power level on an element.

The keep warm setting cannot be started from the key, so food must be held warm another way, such as a low power level on an element

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 24

Listed as lock key is defective.

Disconnect power. Test wire harness cables and connections. If the connections are good, replace the center touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness cable between the center touch control board and the rest of the cooktop: Code 24 appears and the Lock key does nothing or works only sometimes. Disconnect power and test the harness cables and connections that run to the center board
• A failed center touch control board, which the chart replaces for the Lock key: The harness is good and the Lock key still reports as defective. The chart replaces the center touch control board when the connections test good
• Spilled liquid or cooking residue on the glass over the Lock key: The key fails after a boil-over and the glass near it is damp or sticky. Clean and dry the glass over the key, wait, and try it again before opening the cooktop
• A wider fault on the center board that also affects the keys it serves (codes 21, 22, 23, 24 and 25): Other center keys such as Timer, Warm, Lock and Power are also dead or erratic. Try each center key and note which ones fail before you decide

The chart's first check for code 24 is the harness. Reseat each connector and repair or replace any cable that is pinched, cut or burnt, before you buy a board. Note that a control that will not lock is different from one that will not unlock, and both are handled by this key.

Code 24: Lock key defective (790 model induction cooktop table).

What do I lose while the Lock key is dead? Our reading of what the key does: The controls cannot be locked from the key, so keep children away and turn the cooktop off at the breaker if it must be left unattended.

The controls cannot be locked from the key, so keep children away and turn the cooktop off at the breaker if it must be left unattended

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 25

Listed as power (Main Power) key is defective.

Disconnect power. Test wire harness cables and connections. If the connections are good, replace the center touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness cable between the center touch control board and the rest of the cooktop: Code 25 appears and the Power (Main Power) key does nothing or works only sometimes. Disconnect power and test the harness cables and connections that run to the center board
• A failed center touch control board, which the chart replaces for the Power (Main Power) key: The harness is good and the Power (Main Power) key still reports as defective. The chart replaces the center touch control board when the connections test good
• Spilled liquid or cooking residue on the glass over the Power (Main Power) key: The key fails after a boil-over and the glass near it is damp or sticky. Clean and dry the glass over the key, wait, and try it again before opening the cooktop
• A wider fault on the center board that also affects the keys it serves (codes 21, 22, 23, 24 and 25): Other center keys such as Timer, Warm, Lock and Power are also dead or erratic. Try each center key and note which ones fail before you decide

The chart's first check for code 25 is the harness. Reseat each connector and repair or replace any cable that is pinched, cut or burnt, before you buy a board. Because this key switches the whole cooktop, a dead Power key can look like a dead cooktop, so check the breaker first.

Code 25: Power (Main Power) key defective (790 model induction cooktop table).

What do I lose while the Power (Main Power) key is dead? Our reading of what the key does: The cooktop may not switch on, and it may not switch off from the panel, so use the cooktop breaker to cut power if it cannot be turned off.

The cooktop may not switch on, and it may not switch off from the panel, so use the cooktop breaker to cut power if it cannot be turned off

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 3

Listed as left front element Up key is defective.

Disconnect power. Test wire harness cables and connections. If the connections are good, replace the left-side touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness cable between the left-side touch control board and the rest of the cooktop: Code 3 appears and the left front element Up key does nothing or acts intermittently. Disconnect power and test the harness cables and connections that run to the left-side board
• A failed left-side touch control board, which the chart replaces for the left front Up key: The harness is good and the left front element Up key still reports as defective. The chart replaces the left-side touch control board when the connections test good
• Spilled liquid or cooking residue on the glass over the left front Up key: The key fails after a boil-over or after wiping the glass and the area is damp or sticky. Clean and dry the glass over the key, wait, and try it again before opening the cooktop

Code 3: left front element Up key defective (790 model induction cooktop table).

What happens if the left front Up key does not work? Our reading of what the key does: the power level cannot be raised from the key, so an element may stay at a lower setting than you want. Set the level with the other keys on that element and expect to cook more slowly until the board is replaced.

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 30

Listed as improper power supply (high voltage) or internal wiring failure.

Disconnect power. Check the power supply wiring. Have an electrician check the supply voltage. If the connections are good and the voltage is normal, the main power control board or filter control board is defective. Parts named: electronic control board.

• The supply voltage to the cooktop is too high: Code 30 appears when the cooktop is switched on, or on power-up during a storm or grid fault. Have an electrician measure the supply voltage at the cooktop terminals
• A loose or damaged power supply wire inside or behind the cooktop: The code appears intermittently or after the cooktop was moved or serviced. Disconnect power and check the power supply wiring and connections
• A defective main power control board: The wiring is good and the supply voltage is normal. The chart names the main power control board or the filter control board as the failed part
• A defective filter control board: The main power control board is replaced or good and code 30 remains. The chart lists the filter control board as the other possibility

Switch the breaker off. Code 30 is about the power coming in, so the supply is the first suspect.

The chart says exactly this. An electrician confirms the voltage at the cooktop and checks the supply connections for looseness or damage.

The chart names the main power control board or the filter control board. A technician can tell which by testing, so order only after that.

Code 30: improper power supply (high voltage) or internal wiring failure (790 model induction cooktop table).

Electronic control board: the main power control board or the filter control board.

An electrician's voltmeter, and a screwdriver or nut driver.

Do I test the voltage myself? The chart says to have an electrician check the supply voltage.

Which boards does the chart name? The main power control board or the filter control board, once the wiring and the voltage are good.

Stop and disconnect power at the breaker; a supply voltage that is too high can damage the cooktop and needs an electrician, not a DIY test

The chart says to have an electrician check the supply voltage, so do not measure mains voltage yourself unless you are qualified

Do not replace boards until the supply voltage is confirmed normal

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 31

Listed as power Level Failure.

Disconnect power. Check the blue and black wire harness that connects the main power control board and the filter control board. If the connections are good, one or both of the control boards is defective. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged blue and black wire harness between the main power control board and the filter control board: Code 31 appears and the elements do not reach or hold their power level. Disconnect power and check both ends of the blue and black harness
• A defective main power control board: The harness is good and code 31 still remains after a full reseat. The chart says one or both of the two control boards is defective
• A defective filter control board: A new main power control board still gives code 31. Replace one board at a time and test between them

Switch the breaker off. The blue and black harness carries the signals for the power level between the two control boards.

Reseat both ends and look for a pinched, cut or burnt cable. This is the chart's only check before replacing boards.

The chart says one or both of the control boards is defective. Replace one, test, then the other if needed, matching each by model number.

Code 31: power level failure (790 model induction cooktop table).

Electronic control board: the main power control board and the filter control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver and a multimeter.

Which harness does the chart check? The blue and black wire harness between the main power control board and the filter control board.

How is it different from codes 34 and 36? Those are communication faults between the same two boards; code 31 is about the power level.

Stop and disconnect power before you touch the harness, because the boards carry mains voltage

Both boards are costly; confirm the harness first

Have a service technician test which of the two boards has failed

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 32

Listed as low voltage output from the 12-volt power supply on the filter control board.

Disconnect power. Check the wire harness connections on the filter control board and the main power control board. If the connections are good, replace the filter control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness connection on the filter control board or the main power control board: Code 32 appears and the control panel is dim, flickers or resets. Disconnect power and check the harness connections on both boards
• A failed filter control board that no longer makes a full 12-volt supply: The connections are good and the 12-volt output is low. The chart replaces the filter control board when the connections are good
• A heavy load or shorted component pulling the 12-volt supply down: The code appears only when a certain element or key is used. Note which action brings the code on before you order a board

Switch the breaker off. The filter control board makes the 12-volt supply that the low-voltage electronics use.

Reseat every connector on both boards and look for scorched or loose pins, and for a cable pinched under the glass frame.

The chart names the filter control board as the part for code 32. Order it by the full model number.

Code 32: low voltage output from the 12-volt supply on the filter control board (790 model induction cooktop table).

Electronic control board: the filter control board.

Which board does the chart replace? The filter control board, after the harness connections are checked.

What runs on the 12-volt supply? The chart gives the supply and its board; the low-voltage electronics on the cooktop use it.

Stop and disconnect power before you touch the boards

The filter control board is a costly part; check the harness connections first

Have a service technician measure the 12-volt output if you are unsure

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 33

Listed as improper voltage output from the filter control board.

Disconnect power. Check the wire harness connections on the filter control board and the main power control board. If the connections are good, replace the filter control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness connection on the filter control board or the main power control board: Code 33 appears and the display or keys behave erratically. Disconnect power and check the harness connections on both boards
• A failed filter control board putting out the wrong voltage: The connections are good and the output is wrong. The chart replaces the filter control board when the connections are good
• A fault on the main power control board that upsets the filter output: A new filter control board still gives code 33. Have a technician test the main power control board before you replace more parts

Switch the breaker off before you lift the glass top or reach the boards, and wait until the display is fully dark.

The chart checks both boards' connections. Reseat every connector and look for damage such as burnt pins or pinched cables.

The chart names the filter control board as the only part for code 33, the same as for code 32.

Code 33: improper voltage output from the filter control board (790 model induction cooktop table).

Electronic control board: the filter control board.

If replacing the filter control board does not clear the code, stop and have a technician test the main power control board

Do not swap boards from another cooktop to test, because the software must match

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 34

Listed as communication failure between the filter control board and the main power control board.

Disconnect power. Check the wire harness connections on the filter control board and the main power control board. If the connections are good, replace the main power control board. If problem persists, replace the filter control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the filter control board and the main power control board: Code 34 appears and the two boards stop talking to each other. Disconnect power and check the harness connections on both boards
• A failed main power control board: The connections are good and the boards do not communicate. The chart replaces the main power control board first for code 34
• A failed filter control board: A new main power control board still gives code 34. The chart replaces the filter control board if the problem persists

Switch the breaker off before you lift the glass top, and wait until the display is fully dark before you go on.

Reseat every connector on both boards and repair any damaged cable before you order a board, since a cable costs far less.

For code 34 the chart puts the main power control board first, the reverse of code 33.

Code 34: communication failure between the filter and main power control boards (790 model induction cooktop table).

Replace one board at a time and test between them, since both are costly

Order boards by the full model number so their software matches

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 35

Listed as improper power supply voltage (low voltage) or failed wiring connections.

Disconnect power. Check the power supply wiring. Have an electrician check the supply voltage. If the connections are good and the voltage is normal, the main power control board or filter control board is defective. Parts named: electronic control board.

• The supply voltage to the cooktop is too low: Code 35 appears when a pan is heating, or when other loads on the circuit are running. Have an electrician measure the supply voltage while the cooktop is working
• A loose or corroded power supply connection that drops voltage: The code comes and goes and the terminal block looks discolored. Disconnect power and check the power supply wiring and connections
• A defective main power control board: The wiring is good and the supply voltage is normal. The chart names the main power control board or the filter control board as the failed part
• A defective filter control board: The main power control board is replaced or good and code 35 remains. The chart lists the filter control board as the other possibility

Switch the breaker off. Code 35 is about the supply being too low, so start with the wiring rather than the boards.

Look at the terminal connections for looseness or heat marks. The electrician measures the voltage, ideally while the cooktop is loaded.

The chart names the main power control board or the filter control board and leaves the choice to testing.

Code 35: improper power supply voltage (low voltage) or failed wiring connections (790 model induction cooktop table).

Electronic control board: the main power control board or the filter control board.

An electrician's voltmeter, and a screwdriver or nut driver.

Can loose wiring cause it? Yes. The chart names failed wiring connections as one cause.

Stop and disconnect power at the breaker if a connection at the cooktop terminals is discolored or hot, because that is a fire risk

The chart says to have an electrician check the supply voltage; a low supply is usually the house wiring, not the cooktop

Do not replace boards until the supply voltage is confirmed normal

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 36 and 40

Listed as communication error between the main power control board and the filter control board.

Disconnect power. Check the wire harness connections on the filter control board and the main power control board. If the connections are good, replace the main power control board. If problem persists, replace the filter control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the main power control board and the filter control board: Code 36 appears and the boards stop exchanging data. Disconnect power and check the harness connections on both boards
• A failed main power control board: The connections are good and the code 36 error still remains. The chart replaces the main power control board first for code 36
• A failed filter control board: A new main power control board still gives code 36. The chart replaces the filter control board if the problem persists

Switch the breaker off before you open the cooktop, and wait until the display is fully dark before you go on.

Reseat each connector on both boards, and replace any cable that is damaged, pinched or burnt, before you order a board.

The chart's order for code 36 is the main power control board first, then the filter control board only if the problem persists.

Code 36: communication error between the main power and filter control boards (790 model induction cooktop table); code 40 is worded the same.

Is it the same as code 34? The chart words 34 from the filter board's side and 36 from the main board's side, and gives both the same repair.

What about code 40? Code 40 is a third code for the same link, worded like 36, with the same repair.

Replace one board at a time and test between them

Code 40 is listed in the chart with the same repair, so a technician may see either number for this link

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 39

Listed as touch control board software incompatible with the filter control board after a new touch-control board is installed.

Shut off power for 1 minute and then restore power. If the code returns, disconnect power and replace the touch-control board. Check the part number for accuracy when reordering the touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A new touch control board with software that does not match the filter control board: Code 39 appears right after a touch control board was replaced. Check the part number of the new touch control board against the one for your model number
• A wrong part ordered for a similar cooktop: The board looks right but its number is different from the parts list. Confirm the full model number and reorder the correct board
• A one-off fault that clears with a power reset: The code appears once and then does not return afterwards. Shut off power for 1 minute, restore it and see whether the code returns

The chart's first step. If code 39 does not return, the software has settled and nothing else is needed.

The chart replaces the touch control board because its software is incompatible with the filter control board.

The chart says to check the part number of the touch control board against your model number, since a look-alike board can carry the wrong software.

Code 39: touch control board software incompatible with the filter control board (790 model induction cooktop table).

Electronic control board: the touch control board.

Your model number and a screwdriver or nut driver.

Stop refitting boards until the part number matches your model number

Return a board that the seller cannot confirm fits your cooktop

Disconnect power before removing or refitting any board

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 4

Listed as left front element On/Off key is defective.

Disconnect power. Test wire harness cables and connections. If the connections are good, replace the left-side touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness cable between the left-side touch control board and the rest of the cooktop: Code 4 appears and the left front element On/Off key does nothing or acts intermittently. Disconnect power and test the harness cables and connections that run to the left-side board
• A failed left-side touch control board, which the chart replaces for the left front On/Off key: The harness is good and the left front element On/Off key still reports as defective. The chart replaces the left-side touch control board when the connections test good
• Spilled liquid or cooking residue on the glass over the left front On/Off key: The key fails after a boil-over or after wiping the glass and the area is damp or sticky. Clean and dry the glass over the key, wait, and try it again before opening the cooktop

Code 4: left front element On/Off key defective (790 model induction cooktop table).

What happens if the left front On/Off key does not work? Our reading of what the key does: the element cannot be started or stopped from its own key. Use the main Power key to turn everything off, and do not leave a hot pan on an element you cannot switch off.

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 51

Listed as left front temperature sensor failure.

Disconnect power. Test the element temperature sensor resistance with a volt/ohm meter. Resistance should measure about 1000 ohms at room temperature. If the sensor is defective, replace the element, which includes the sensor. If the resistance is normal, replace the power generator control board. Parts named: surface element, Electronic control board.

• The left front element temperature sensor has failed: Code 51 appears and the left front element shuts off, will not start or heats erratically. With power off, measure the left front sensor; it should read about 1,000 ohms at room temperature
• A damaged element that includes the failed left front sensor: The sensor reading is far off 1,000 ohms, or open or shorted. The sensor is built into the element, so the chart replaces the element and the sensor together
• The power generator control board is not reading a good left front sensor: The left front sensor measures about 1,000 ohms and code 51 still shows. The chart replaces the power generator control board when the sensor resistance is normal

Switch the cooktop breaker off and confirm the display is dark. The left front element sensor is under the glass beside the induction coil.

At room temperature the chart expects about 1,000 ohms. A reading far from that, or an open circuit, means the left front sensor is defective.

The chart replaces the whole element because it includes the sensor. If the resistance is normal, the chart replaces the power generator control board instead.

Code 51: left front temperature sensor failure (790 model induction cooktop table).

Surface element (which includes the sensor) and electronic control board (the power generator control board).

A volt/ohm meter and a screwdriver or nut driver; a helper to lift the glass top.

What should the left front sensor measure? About 1,000 ohms at room temperature, according to the chart.

What if the left front sensor measures normally? The chart replaces the power generator control board, and codes left rear, right rear and right front, codes 52, 53 and 54 are the other elements' sensors.

Stop and disconnect power at the breaker before you lift the glass or measure anything, because the cooktop carries mains voltage

A cracked glass top or a scorched element means stop using the cooktop until it is repaired

Have an electrician or service technician measure the sensor if you are not comfortable with a meter

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 52

Listed as left rear temperature sensor failure.

Disconnect power. Test the element temperature sensor resistance with a volt/ohm meter. Resistance should measure about 1000 ohms at room temperature. If the sensor is defective, replace the element, which includes the sensor. If the resistance is normal, replace the power generator control board. Parts named: surface element, Electronic control board.

• The left rear element temperature sensor has failed: Code 52 appears and the left rear element shuts off, will not start or heats erratically. With power off, measure the left rear sensor; it should read about 1,000 ohms at room temperature
• A damaged element that includes the failed left rear sensor: The sensor reading is far off 1,000 ohms, or open or shorted. The sensor is built into the element, so the chart replaces the element and the sensor together
• The power generator control board is not reading a good left rear sensor: The left rear sensor measures about 1,000 ohms and code 52 still shows. The chart replaces the power generator control board when the sensor resistance is normal

Switch the cooktop breaker off and confirm the display is dark. The left rear element sensor is under the glass beside the induction coil.

At room temperature the chart expects about 1,000 ohms. A reading far from that, or an open circuit, means the left rear sensor is defective.

The chart replaces the whole element because it includes the sensor. If the resistance is normal, the chart replaces the power generator control board instead.

Code 52: left rear temperature sensor failure (790 model induction cooktop table).

What should the left rear sensor measure? About 1,000 ohms at room temperature, according to the chart.

What if the left rear sensor measures normally? The chart replaces the power generator control board, and codes left front, right rear and right front, codes 51, 53 and 54 are the other elements' sensors.

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 53

Listed as right rear temperature sensor failure.

Disconnect power. Test the element temperature sensor resistance with a volt/ohm meter. Resistance should measure about 1000 ohms at room temperature. If the sensor is defective, replace the element, which includes the sensor. If the resistance is normal, replace the power generator control board. Parts named: surface element, Electronic control board.

• The right rear element temperature sensor has failed: Code 53 appears and the right rear element shuts off, will not start or heats erratically. With power off, measure the right rear sensor; it should read about 1,000 ohms at room temperature
• A damaged element that includes the failed right rear sensor: The sensor reading is far off 1,000 ohms, or open or shorted. The sensor is built into the element, so the chart replaces the element and the sensor together
• The power generator control board is not reading a good right rear sensor: The right rear sensor measures about 1,000 ohms and code 53 still shows. The chart replaces the power generator control board when the sensor resistance is normal

Switch the cooktop breaker off and confirm the display is dark. The right rear element sensor is under the glass beside the induction coil.

At room temperature the chart expects about 1,000 ohms. A reading far from that, or an open circuit, means the right rear sensor is defective.

The chart replaces the whole element because it includes the sensor. If the resistance is normal, the chart replaces the power generator control board instead.

Code 53: right rear temperature sensor failure (790 model induction cooktop table).

What should the right rear sensor measure? About 1,000 ohms at room temperature, according to the chart.

What if the right rear sensor measures normally? The chart replaces the power generator control board, and codes left front, left rear and right front, codes 51, 52 and 54 are the other elements' sensors.

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 54

Listed as right front temperature sensor failure.

Disconnect power. Test the element temperature sensor resistance with a volt/ohm meter. Resistance should measure about 1000 ohms at room temperature. If the sensor is defective, replace the element, which includes the sensor. If the resistance is normal, replace the power generator control board. Parts named: surface element, Electronic control board.

• The right front element temperature sensor has failed: Code 54 appears and the right front element shuts off, will not start or heats erratically. With power off, measure the right front sensor; it should read about 1,000 ohms at room temperature
• A damaged element that includes the failed right front sensor: The sensor reading is far off 1,000 ohms, or open or shorted. The sensor is built into the element, so the chart replaces the element and the sensor together
• The power generator control board is not reading a good right front sensor: The right front sensor measures about 1,000 ohms and code 54 still shows. The chart replaces the power generator control board when the sensor resistance is normal

Switch the cooktop breaker off and confirm the display is dark. The right front element sensor is under the glass beside the induction coil.

At room temperature the chart expects about 1,000 ohms. A reading far from that, or an open circuit, means the right front sensor is defective.

The chart replaces the whole element because it includes the sensor. If the resistance is normal, the chart replaces the power generator control board instead.

Code 54: right front temperature sensor failure (790 model induction cooktop table).

What should the right front sensor measure? About 1,000 ohms at room temperature, according to the chart.

What if the right front sensor measures normally? The chart replaces the power generator control board, and codes left front, left rear and right rear, codes 51, 52 and 53 are the other elements' sensors.

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 6

Listed as left rear element Down key is defective.

Disconnect power. Test wire harness cables and connections. If the connections are good, replace the left-side touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness cable between the left-side touch control board and the rest of the cooktop: Code 6 appears and the left rear element Down key does nothing or acts intermittently. Disconnect power and test the harness cables and connections that run to the left-side board
• A failed left-side touch control board, which the chart replaces for the left rear Down key: The harness is good and the left rear element Down key still reports as defective. The chart replaces the left-side touch control board when the connections test good
• Spilled liquid or cooking residue on the glass over the left rear Down key: The key fails after a boil-over or after wiping the glass and the area is damp or sticky. Clean and dry the glass over the key, wait, and try it again before opening the cooktop

Code 6: left rear element Down key defective (790 model induction cooktop table).

What happens if the left rear Down key does not work? Our reading of what the key does: the power level cannot be lowered from the key, so an element can stay hotter than you want. Use the On/Off key or the main Power key to turn the element off rather than trying to turn it down.

Do the other left rear element keys have the same code? No. Each key has its own code; the keys handled by the same board are 2, 3, 4, 6, 7 and 8, and the chart gives all of them the same repair.

Do not leave a hot pan on the left rear element if it cannot be switched off from its key; use the main Power key to shut the cooktop down

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 7

Listed as left rear element Up key is defective.

Disconnect power. Test wire harness cables and connections. If the connections are good, replace the left-side touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness cable between the left-side touch control board and the rest of the cooktop: Code 7 appears and the left rear element Up key does nothing or acts intermittently. Disconnect power and test the harness cables and connections that run to the left-side board
• A failed left-side touch control board, which the chart replaces for the left rear Up key: The harness is good and the left rear element Up key still reports as defective. The chart replaces the left-side touch control board when the connections test good
• Spilled liquid or cooking residue on the glass over the left rear Up key: The key fails after a boil-over or after wiping the glass and the area is damp or sticky. Clean and dry the glass over the key, wait, and try it again before opening the cooktop

Code 7: left rear element Up key defective (790 model induction cooktop table).

What happens if the left rear Up key does not work? Our reading of what the key does: the power level cannot be raised from the key, so an element may stay at a lower setting than you want. Set the level with the other keys on that element and expect to cook more slowly until the board is replaced.

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code 8

Listed as left rear element On/Off key is defective.

Disconnect power. Test wire harness cables and connections. If the connections are good, replace the left-side touch-control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness cable between the left-side touch control board and the rest of the cooktop: Code 8 appears and the left rear element On/Off key does nothing or acts intermittently. Disconnect power and test the harness cables and connections that run to the left-side board
• A failed left-side touch control board, which the chart replaces for the left rear On/Off key: The harness is good and the left rear element On/Off key still reports as defective. The chart replaces the left-side touch control board when the connections test good
• Spilled liquid or cooking residue on the glass over the left rear On/Off key: The key fails after a boil-over or after wiping the glass and the area is damp or sticky. Clean and dry the glass over the key, wait, and try it again before opening the cooktop

Code 8: left rear element On/Off key defective (790 model induction cooktop table).

What happens if the left rear On/Off key does not work? Our reading of what the key does: the element cannot be started or stopped from its own key. Use the main Power key to turn everything off, and do not leave a hot pan on an element you cannot switch off.

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code H in the display when element off and cold

Listed as element temperature sensor is defective.

Disconnect power. Test the element temperature sensor resistance with a volt/ohm meter. Resistance should measure about 1000 ohms at room temperature. If the sensor is defective, replace the element, which includes the sensor. If the resistance is normal, replace the power generator control board. Parts named: surface element, Electronic control board.

• An element temperature sensor that has failed and reads hot when the element is cold: An H appears in the display while the element is off and cold. With power off, measure the sensor at room temperature; the chart expects about 1,000 ohms
• A damaged element that includes the failed sensor: The sensor reading is far from 1,000 ohms, open or shorted. The sensor is part of the element, so the chart replaces the element and sensor together
• The power generator control board misreading a good sensor: The sensor reads about 1,000 ohms and the H remains. The chart replaces the power generator control board when the resistance is normal

The H normally warns that an element is hot after use. The chart's code is an H that stays on when the element is off and cold.

At room temperature the sensor should measure about 1,000 ohms. Replace the element, which includes the sensor, if it is defective.

This is the chart's last step, taken only after the element sensor has passed its resistance test at room temperature.

H in the display when the element is off and cold (790 model induction cooktop table).

Surface element and electronic control board.

A volt/ohm meter and a screwdriver or nut driver.

What does an H in the display mean here? An element temperature sensor defect, when the H shows while the element is off and cold, in the chart's words.

Isn't H the hot surface warning? Normally yes, after cooking. The chart's fault is an H that stays when the element is off and cold.

Stop and disconnect power before you lift the glass, because the cooktop carries mains voltage

An H on a cold element is not the normal residual heat warning; do not assume the element is hot until you have checked it with the power off

Have a technician measure the sensor if you are not comfortable with a meter

Kenmore 790 model induction cooktop code Multiple codes

Listed as disconnected wires.

Disconnect power. Check for disconnected wires between the control boards and components. Parts named: wire harness.

• A wire or harness that has come loose between two control boards: Several different codes appear together after the cooktop was moved, serviced or bumped. Disconnect power and check every harness between the control boards
• A wire loose between a control board and a component such as an element: Codes for one element and its sensor appear together. Check the connection between that board and that component
• A cable pinched when the glass top was refitted after repair: The codes started right after the cooktop was opened. Look for a cable pinched under the edge of the glass or the frame

Switch the breaker off before you touch any harness. Several codes at once often share one cause.

The chart's whole instruction is to look for disconnected wires. Follow each harness between the boards, the elements and the sensors, reseating every connector.

If they do not, work through the individual code pages for the first code that appears, since it usually names the board involved.

Multiple codes (790 model induction cooktop table).

Wire harness.

A screwdriver or nut driver and a flashlight.

What does it mean when several codes appear at once? The chart lists this as disconnected wires, and says to check for disconnected wires between the control boards and components.

Do I replace a board? Not first. The chart's part is the wire harness.

Where do I begin? With the harnesses between the control boards and the components, reseating every connector.

What if the codes remain? Use the page for the first code to appear, since it points to the board involved.

Stop and disconnect power at the breaker before you lift the glass top

Do not replace any board until every harness has been checked, because one loose wire can cause many codes

Have a service technician do it if the cooktop layout is unfamiliar