Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer error codes

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F01

Listed as main control board EEPROM error.

The Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory (EEPROM) on the main electronic control board is corrupted. Unplug the washer for 5 minutes, restore power and see if the code clears. If not, the replace the main electronic control board. Parts named: main electronic control board.

• The memory chip (EEPROM) on the main electronic control board has been corrupted: F01 appears with little else wrong: the washer will not start or stops at power-up. Unplug the washer for 5 minutes, restore power and see if the code clears; the chart says this is the first thing to try
• A power disturbance scrambled the board's stored settings: The code first appeared after a storm, outage or tripped breaker. Note the date it started against any outage; a code that clears after the 5-minute reset and stays away points here
• The main electronic control board itself has failed: F01 returns straight away after the reset, or comes back after each reset. Two full 5-minute resets that both fail leave the board as the only part the chart names

Do not shorten it: the board needs time for its stored charge to drain so it restarts from a clean state. The chart says to restore power afterwards and see if the code clears.

A code that stays away through a whole cycle was a one-off glitch. A code that returns immediately is a board fault, not a settings problem.

The chart's remedy is the main electronic control board. Quote the part against the washer's age before buying, since a board is often the costliest single part in the cabinet.

None for the reset itself; a screwdriver or nut driver only if you go on to replace the board.

Main electronic control board — the only part listed for F01 on the Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam charts.

Can F01 clear on its own after a reset? Yes. The chart's first instruction is to unplug the washer for 5 minutes and restore power; if the code does not return, the stored settings were only scrambled and no part needs replacing.

Is F01 dangerous to run the washer with? It is not a flood or fire warning by itself, but the washer normally will not run with it, and you should not keep power-cycling a board that repeatedly reports memory corruption.

Will a surge protector or a different outlet help? It can rule out a power problem if the code appeared after outages, but it cannot repair a board whose memory has already failed. If the code survives two resets, the board is the fix.

If F01 comes back after two 5-minute unplug resets, the chart's remedy is a new main electronic control board — get that quoted as a part-and-labor job before ordering

Do not open the control housing with the washer plugged in; the board carries line voltage

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F06

Listed as steamer failure.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the steamer and the steamer electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the steamer. To clear the error code and reset the washer, run the diagnostic test. To enter the diagnostic test, plug in the washer and close the door. With the tub empty and the control off, select any one key except Stop/Cancel or Control Lock and press the key in this pattern: press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds.

After the 5th iteration, the control will display the last stored error code (F61). Press the same selected key to display and move past any other saved error codes. The control will save and display up to 4 error codes. After you display all of the saved error codes, press the same selected key again to enter the diagnostic test cycle. The version numbers of the control boards will display and then all green console LED lights will turn on for 5 seconds. The washer then begins the automatic test cycle.

C:00 through C:09 will appear in the display as the test progresses. The diagnostic test ends after a few minutes and the control shuts off. You can then use the washer again. Parts named: steamer, wire harness.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the steamer and the steamer electronic control board: F06 appears on a steam model when a steam cycle is selected or started, and no steam is produced. With the washer unplugged, look at both harness connectors and reseat them; the chart names this check first
• The steamer itself has failed: The wiring is sound but the code returns and no steam is produced on any cycle. The chart says to replace the steamer once the harness connections have been confirmed good
• A stored error that only the diagnostic test clears: The code persists or returns after a repair has already been made. Run the diagnostic test; the chart says it clears the error and resets the washer

The chart's first check is the wiring between the steamer and the steamer electronic control board. Reconnect anything loose and replace a harness that is damaged or pinched.

That is the order the chart gives, so do not order the steamer before the harness has been ruled out; it is the costlier part.

The HE5 steam chart's diagnostic test: plug in the washer and close the door, tub empty and control off, pick any key except Stop/Cancel or Control Lock, then press and hold 3 seconds and release, five times in a row. The display shows the last stored code (up to 4 are kept); press the same key to step through them, and once more to start the automatic test, which shows C:00 through C:09 and ends after a few minutes.

Screwdriver or nut driver for the panels, a flashlight to check the connectors and towels for the steamer water lines. The diagnostic test needs no tools.

HE5 steam model only; the steamer and its own control board are not on the HE2 or plain HE5 washers.

Steamer and wire harness.

Do I need to run the diagnostic test after fixing F06? Yes on the steam model. The chart says the diagnostic test clears the error and resets the washer; it takes a few minutes and ends by itself.

How many old codes does the washer remember? Up to four. The diagnostic entry procedure displays the last stored code first and steps through the others each time you press the selected key.

Does F06 stop the normal wash? It depends on the cycle. The steamer is an added feature, but the washer may still stop with the code displayed; the diagnostic test is the step that clears it.

Replacing the steamer or its harness involves steam plumbing and mains power, so book it if you are not comfortable with both

Stop and unplug for any water around the steamer or a burnt smell at its connector

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F11

Listed as motor control board failure.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the motor control board and the main electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire connections are okay, replace the motor control board. Parts named: motor control board.

• A loose or damaged harness between the motor control board and the main electronic control board: F11 appears with no obvious water or door problem and the drum will not turn. Unplug the washer and check both connectors; the chart says reconnect loose wires or replace a damaged harness
• The motor control board has failed: The connections are good and the code returns as soon as the washer tries to run the motor. The chart's next remedy, once the wiring is confirmed, is replacing the motor control board
• Moisture or corrosion at a connector, often after a leak or in a damp laundry room: The code is intermittent, comes and goes with humidity or after a leak, and seems to change when the washer is moved. Unplug the washer and look at the connector pins for green or white corrosion, water tracks or a loose latch

The chart puts the wire check first: motor control board to main electronic control board. A gentle tug on each connector shows whether it is properly seated.

Use a flashlight to look for pinched, burnt or corroded pins before deciding a harness is good, and replace any that shows damage.

The chart says to replace it when the connections are okay. This is the costlier of the two fixes, so confirm the wiring before ordering the board.

Screwdriver or nut driver for the cabinet panel, a flashlight, and a multimeter if you test harness continuity.

Motor control board, with the wire harness checked first.

What is the motor control board on a front-load Kenmore? It is the separate board that drives the main motor. It takes commands from the main electronic control board through a harness, and F11 says that link or the board has failed.

Is there a how-to for the replacement? PartsDirect lists a how-to called replacing a motor control board on a front-load washer. Read it before you decide whether to do the job yourself.

Can a bad harness cause F11? Yes, and the chart lists it first. Checking the connectors costs nothing and avoids buying a board that was never faulty.

A motor control board replacement has a how-to on PartsDirect, but the board is mains-powered, so book it unless you are comfortable isolating power

Never test the harness with the washer plugged in, because the boards carry line voltage

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F17

Listed as right side user interface control board failure.

The right side user interface control board failed. Unplug the washer and replace the right side user interface control board. Parts named: right side user interface control board.

• The right-side user interface control board has failed: Buttons or lights on the right of the console stop responding, or F17 shows at start. The HE5 chart states the board failed and to replace it; check the left and right controls separately
• A loose connector at the console: The right-hand controls work some days and not others, and pressing on the console changes it. Unplug the washer and check that the console connector is fully seated at both ends
• Moisture inside the console after a spill or leak: Intermittent behavior after a wipe-down, a spill on the console or a leak above it. Unplug and look for water tracks or corrosion on the board connector before condemning the board

Water tracks or corrosion on the connector explain intermittent faults and are worth clearing before replacing anything, because a new board fails the same way if the water is still there.

F17 names the right-side board, so left-side controls working while right-side ones do not supports the diagnosis and avoids replacing the wrong part.

It is the only part the HE5 chart lists for F17. Match the part to your full model number, because boards differ between series.

Screwdriver or nut driver to open the console, and a flashlight to check the connector.

HE5 and HE5 steam charts.

Right side user interface control board.

What does 'right side' mean in F17? The HE5 chart uses it for the user interface board on the right of the console; a separate board handles the other side of the controls.

Should I try a reset first? Unplugging for a few minutes costs nothing and can clear a one-off glitch, but the chart's remedy for F17 is a board replacement rather than a reset.

Do HE2 washers show F17? It is on the HE5 charts; the HE2 chart does not list it, so a different series' page may fit your washer better.

The chart's remedy is a replacement right-side user interface control board, so get it quoted before ordering

Stop and keep the power off if you find moisture inside the console, and dry it fully first

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F20

Listed as not filling.

Make sure the water supply faucets behind the washer are fully open.

Check the water fill lines for kinks or freezing in the winter. Check the water inlet valves. If the valves don't open when activated, replace the water inlet valve assembly. Parts named: water inlet valve assembly.

• The water supply faucets behind the washer are not fully open: Slow or no fill, sometimes with a hissing or humming valve. Open both faucets fully and try again, which is the chart's first instruction
• A kinked or frozen fill line: The fill stops after a short time, or the hoses are stiff in winter. Straighten the hoses and check for ice; the chart names kinks and winter freezing
• A water inlet valve that will not open: Faucets and hoses are fine but nothing enters when the washer calls for water. The chart says if the valves do not open when activated, replace the water inlet valve assembly

A half-open faucet is the commonest cause of F20 and the cheapest to fix, so check it before anything else.

Pull the washer forward a little if you need to see behind it, keeping a towel ready for drips at the hose connections.

Remove the hoses with the faucets closed and look at the small screens for grit. The chart replaces the valve assembly when the valves do not open when activated.

Water inlet valve assembly.

How do I know if the inlet valve is the problem? If both faucets are open, both hoses are clear and no water enters when the washer asks for a fill, the chart's next step is replacing the water inlet valve assembly.

Can freezing cause F20? The chart lists frozen fill lines in winter. Bring the room above freezing and let the hoses thaw before testing again.

Is F20 the same as an overflow code? No. F20 is a failure to fill; the overflow code is F27 and points at the opposite problem.

Does F20 need the washer unplugged? Check the faucets and hoses freely, but unplug before touching the valve or its wiring, because the valve is mains-powered.

If faucets, hoses and screens check out and no water enters, the chart's remedy is the water inlet valve assembly, so book it if you are not comfortable with mains-powered valves

Stop and shut the faucets if you find a leak at a hose connection

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F23

Listed as heating element failure.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the heating element and the main control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire connections are okay, measure the resistance with a multimeter. You should measure about 15 ohms of resistance through the heating element. Replace the heating element if you measure infinite resistance because that means the element is broken. Parts named: heating element, wire harness.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the heating element and the main control board: F23 appears with water that does not warm, or with cold water in a hot cycle. Unplug the washer and check both ends of the harness; the chart names this before any part
• The heating element is open-circuit and no longer heats: The wiring is sound, the code returns, and a multimeter across the element shows no reading. The chart says you should read about 15 ohms across a good element and replace it on an infinite reading
• Scorched or corroded terminals at the element: The code is intermittent, with discolored terminals or a burnt smell near the base of the tub. Look at the element terminals for scorching or green corrosion, and repair the connection before fitting a new element

The chart lists reconnecting loose wires or replacing a damaged harness first, before any part is bought.

The chart says about 15 ohms is normal for a healthy element. An infinite reading means the element is broken and has to be replaced.

This avoids replacing a working element because of a loose wire; if the reading is normal, go back to the harness and terminals.

About 15 ohms across a good element; infinite means broken (HE2 chart).

Heating element and wire harness.

What resistance is normal for the heating element? About 15 ohms through the element, per the HE2 chart. A reading of infinite resistance means the element is broken and needs replacing.

What does F23 have to do with F03? Both name the heater. F23 on the HE2 chart leads with a wiring check and a resistance test; F03 on the HE5 charts describes an internal short and goes straight to replacement.

Will the washer wash cold with F23? It may stop the cycle when it detects the fault; a cold test cycle can show whether the rest of the washer is sound.

What tools do I need? A multimeter, a screwdriver or nut driver, and towels for any water in the base. Unplug the washer before touching anything.

If the element reads infinite ohms, the chart's remedy is a new heating element, which sits under the tub, so book the job if you are not comfortable working there

Stop and unplug for a burning smell, smoke or scorched wiring

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F24

Listed as water temperature sensor error.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the temperature sensor and the display control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire connections are okay, replace the temperature sensor. Parts named: temperature sensor, wire harness.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the temperature sensor and the display control board: F24 appears with the wrong or no water temperature, and wash cycles behave oddly. Unplug the washer and check the harness connections at both ends, which is the chart's first step
• The temperature sensor has failed: The wiring is sound and F24 returns every time the control tries to read the water temperature. The chart says to replace the temperature sensor once the connections have been checked and are okay
• A corroded or partly seated sensor connector: The code is intermittent and appears after a leak, or comes and goes as the washer vibrates. Look at the connector pins for corrosion or a half-inserted latch, and reseat it firmly before replacing anything

The chart names the wire connections between the sensor and the display control board first, so start there before spending money.

Look for bent pins or corrosion at the connector, and replace the harness if any of its wires is damaged or the connector will not hold.

That is the chart's remedy, and the only part it lists besides the harness; match it to your full model number.

Screwdriver or nut driver, a flashlight for the connector, and a multimeter if you test the sensor.

Temperature sensor and wire harness.

What does the water temperature sensor do? It tells the control the temperature of the water in the tub so cycles fill and heat correctly. F24 means the control cannot read that signal properly.

Can I fix F24 without replacing parts? Reseating the harness sometimes clears it and costs nothing. If it persists after that, the chart's remedy is a new temperature sensor.

Is F24 related to F23? Not directly. F23 concerns the heating element. F24 concerns the sensor that reads the water temperature, though a heater that never warms the water can make temperature problems more obvious.

Where does the sensor connect? The chart names the display control board for the sensor's harness connection, so that is the end to check first.

If the wiring is fine and the code persists, the chart's fix is a new temperature sensor, so quote it before ordering

Do not probe the sensor connector with a meter while the washer is plugged in

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F25

Listed as drive motor tachometer error.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the motor control board and the drive motor. Check the wire harness connection between the motor control board and the main control board. or replace any damaged wire harness. If the wire connections are okay, replace the drive motor, which includes the tachometer as an internal component. If the problem continues, replace the motor control board. Parts named: drive motor, motor control board, wire harness.

• A loose or damaged harness between the motor control board and the drive motor, or between the two boards: F25 appears when the drum tries to turn, and spin or agitate is affected. Unplug the washer and check both harnesses; the chart names them first
• The drive motor, which contains the tachometer, has failed: The wiring is okay and F25 returns whenever the motor is asked to run. The chart says to replace the drive motor, which includes the tachometer as an internal component
• The motor control board has failed: Replacing the drive motor did not clear the code. The chart says if the problem continues after the motor, replace the motor control board

or replace a damaged harness; the chart also names the harness between the motor control board and the main control board.

The tachometer is inside the motor, so it is replaced as a whole with the motor. Check fit against your full model number before ordering.

The chart's last step, done only after the motor is confirmed replaced and the harnesses are sound, because it is the costlier board.

Screwdriver or nut driver for the cabinet panel, a flashlight, and a multimeter for harness continuity.

Drive motor (includes the tachometer), motor control board and wire harness.

Which repairs should I do first? Wiring first, then the drive motor, then the motor control board, in that order, per the chart.

Is there a how-to for the board replacement? PartsDirect lists one for replacing a motor control board on a front-load washer, which applies if you reach that last step.

If the harnesses are clear, the chart's remedy is a drive motor and then, if that fails to clear it, the motor control board; both are jobs to quote first

Never test the motor or its harness with the washer plugged in

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F26

Listed as door switch error.

The control detects that the door hasn't opened for 3 consecutive cycles or the door switch indicates that the door is open with the door lock engaged. If you've run 3 consecutive cycles without opening the door, open and shut the door to clear the code. If the door switch detects the door open while locked, push on the door to make sure it's completely closed. Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the door lock/switch assembly and the main electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire connections are okay, replace the door lock/switch assembly. Parts named: door lock/switch assembly, wire harness.

• The washer has run three consecutive cycles without the door being opened: F26 appears after several back-to-back cycles with the door left shut. Open and shut the door to clear the code, as the chart says
• The door is not fully closed while locked, so the switch reads open: F26 appears with the lock engaged and the door looking closed but not fully seated. Push firmly on the door to make sure it is completely closed and see whether the code clears
• A harness fault or a failed door lock/switch assembly: The door closes properly and the code still returns during cycles. Unplug the washer and check the harness to the main electronic control board, then replace the assembly if the wiring is okay

If three cycles ran without the door opening, this alone clears the code, and it takes seconds, so try it before anything else.

The chart says the code can mean the switch reads the door open with the lock engaged, so make sure the door is fully closed and check that nothing holds it ajar.

The chart checks the wire connections between the assembly and the main electronic control board first and replaces the assembly only if they are okay.

None for the first two steps; a screwdriver or nut driver and a flashlight if you reach the harness check.

Three consecutive cycles without the door opening, or the switch reading open while locked (chart).

Door lock/switch assembly and wire harness.

Why does running back-to-back cycles cause F26? The control expects the door to open between cycles. After three consecutive cycles without that, it shows F26, and opening and closing the door clears it.

Is F26 a broken door? Usually not. The first two steps on the chart need no parts at all, and many F26 codes clear with a firm close.

The chart's last step is replacing the door lock/switch assembly, so quote it before ordering

Never bypass the door switch, because it is a safety interlock

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F28

Listed as communication error between the main electronic control board and the motor control board.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the main electronic control board and the motor control board. Check the wire harness connections between the motor control board and the drive motor. or replace any wire harness that you find damaged. If those wire connections are okay, check the wire connections between the door lock/switch assembly and the main electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. A bad door lock/switch also prevents the motor control board from getting power, resulting in the F28 code. Replace the door lock/switch assembly if damaged.

The cabinet has grounding switches on the front and back. Defective grounding switches can trigger the F28 code. Check the wire harness connections on the grounding switches. or replace the wire harness if damaged. Replace the motor control board if the wire connections, door lock/switch assembly and grounding switches are all okay. Parts named: motor control board, door lock/switch assembly, grounding switch, wire harness.

• A loose or damaged harness between the main electronic control board and the motor control board, or between the motor control board and the drive motor: F28 appears with no motor response and the drum will not turn. Unplug the washer and check both harnesses first, which is the chart's opening step
• A bad door lock/switch assembly starving the motor control board of power: The harnesses are good but the door lock area is suspect or the door was recently repaired. The chart says a bad door lock/switch prevents the motor control board from getting power, so check its wiring and replace it if damaged
• A defective grounding switch on the front or back of the cabinet: The wiring and door lock are fine, and the cabinet panels may have been removed recently. The chart says the cabinet has grounding switches front and back, so check their harness connections
• The motor control board itself has failed: Everything else checks out and F28 still returns on every attempt to run. The chart replaces the motor control board last, once the wiring, door lock and grounding switches are okay

Reconnect anything loose and replace a harness that is damaged; this covers the two board connections named first in the chart.

The chart says a bad door lock/switch also prevents the motor control board from getting power, so reseat its harness and replace the assembly if it is damaged.

Reconnect loose wires or replace a damaged harness at the grounding switches. Only if all of that is okay does the chart replace the motor control board.

Screwdriver or nut driver for the cabinet panels, a flashlight, and a multimeter for harness continuity.

Motor control board, door lock/switch assembly, grounding switches and wire harness.

What are the grounding switches? The chart says the cabinet has grounding switches on the front and back. If they are defective, or their wiring is loose, they can trigger F28.

In what order do I check F28? The board-to-board and motor harnesses first, then the door lock/switch, then the grounding switches, and the motor control board last.

F28 has four possible causes in a fixed order, and the last is the motor control board, so quote it before ordering

Never open the cabinet or test the harnesses with the washer plugged in

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F29

Listed as door unlock error.

Unplug the washer. To manually unlock and open the door, remove the bottom front service panel, reach up into the cabinet and pull down on the manual release tab on the bottom of the door lock/switch assembly. Then pull the door open. Check for foreign objects in the door lock receiver. Clear any debris or objects from the receiver. If the door lock receiver is clear, check the wire harness connections between the door lock/switch assembly and the main electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire connections are okay, replace the door lock/switch assembly. Parts named: door lock/switch assembly, wire harness.

• Foreign objects in the door lock receiver: The door will not unlock after a cycle and a small item may be visible near the latch. Clear any debris from the receiver, which is the chart's first check after the manual release
• A loose or damaged harness between the door lock/switch assembly and the main control board: The receiver is clear but the lock still does not release when the cycle ends. Unplug the washer and check the wire connections at the assembly and the board
• The door lock/switch assembly has failed: The wiring is fine and F29 returns after every cycle. The chart says to replace the door lock/switch assembly when the wire connections are okay

The chart says remove the bottom front service panel, reach up into the cabinet and pull down on the manual release tab on the bottom of the door lock/switch assembly, then pull the door open.

Clear any debris or objects from the receiver, since something wedged there can stop the lock releasing and is a free fix.

Reconnect loose wires or replace a damaged harness; if the wiring is okay, the chart's remedy is to replace the door lock/switch assembly.

Screwdriver or nut driver for the bottom front service panel, a flashlight, and towels in case water is still in the tub.

Tab on the bottom of the door lock/switch assembly, reached through the bottom front service panel.

Door lock/switch assembly and wire harness.

How do I open the door when it will not unlock? Unplug the washer, remove the bottom front service panel, reach up into the cabinet and pull the manual release tab at the bottom of the door lock/switch assembly, then pull the door open.

Could a sock or debris be blocking the lock? Yes. The chart lists foreign objects in the door lock receiver as the first check once the door has been opened manually.

If the door cannot be opened with the manual release, stop and book service rather than forcing it

The chart's final remedy is the door lock/switch assembly, so quote it before ordering

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F31 and F31 or F42

Listed as motor control board failure.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the motor control board and the drive motor. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the motor control board. Parts named: motor control board, wire harness.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the motor control board and the drive motor: F31 or F42 appears as the drum is asked to turn, or the drum will not turn at all. Unplug the washer and check both ends of the motor harness for a connector that has worked loose or a wire that has chafed
• The motor control board has failed: Every connection is good and the code returns as soon as the washer tries to run the motor. The chart replaces the motor control board once the harness between it and the drive motor has been ruled out

The chart's first check. Reconnect loose wires, and replace the harness if any wire is damaged or a pin is burnt.

That is the chart's remedy. Match the board to your full model number; boards for different series are not interchangeable.

PartsDirect lists a how-to called replacing a motor control board on a front-load washer. Decide from it whether you are comfortable doing the job yourself.

Screwdriver or nut driver for the cabinet panel, a flashlight, and a multimeter if you test harness continuity.

F31 on the HE2 chart; F31 or F42 on the HE5 and HE5 steam charts.

Motor control board and wire harness.

Is F42 the same fault as F31? The HE5 charts list them together as F31 or F42 and give the same remedy: check the harness to the drive motor, then replace the motor control board. Use whichever code your display shows.

How does F31 differ from F11? Both name the motor control board. F31 checks the harness between the motor control board and the drive motor first; F11 checks the harness between the motor control board and the main electronic control board first.

Can a loose connector really cause a motor board code? Yes, and that is why the chart puts the harness first. Vibration over years can loosen a connector; reseating it costs nothing and avoids buying a board that was never faulty.

A motor control board replacement is a chart-listed repair with a how-to on PartsDirect; quote it before ordering because the board is one of the costlier parts in the cabinet

Never test the harness with the washer plugged in; the board carries line voltage

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F32 or F35

Listed as water level sensor failure.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the main electronic control board and the water level sensor. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the water level sensor. Parts named: water level sensor, wire harness.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the main electronic control board and the water level sensor: F32 or F35 appears during fill or drain, or the washer fills to a level that seems wrong. Unplug the washer and check both ends of the sensor harness for a connector that has slipped or a wire that has been pinched
• The water level sensor has failed: The harness is sound and the code returns each time the washer needs to read the tub level. The chart replaces the water level sensor once the harness between it and the main board has been ruled out
• A kinked or blocked hose to the sensor, on washers where the sensor reads level through a small hose: The tub level looks normal to the eye but the washer reports a sensor fault, or the reading drifts during fill. With the washer unplugged, trace the small hose from the tub to the sensor and check for a kink, water or lint

The chart's first check. Look for a pin that has backed out, a wire chafed against the cabinet or a connector with a cracked latch, and reseat or replace as needed.

It is the only part besides the harness that the chart lists for F32 and F35. Match it to your full model number.

After the repair, watch that the tub fills to a normal level and drains. A washer that now fills and drains normally has cleared the fault.

Screwdriver or nut driver, a flashlight for the connector and hose, and towels for any water.

HE5 and HE5 steam charts list F32 or F35.

Water level sensor and wire harness.

What does the water level sensor do? It tells the main electronic control board how much water is in the tub so each cycle fills to the right level and stops. F32 and F35 mean the board cannot read it reliably.

Are F32 and F35 different faults? The HE5 charts list them together as water level sensor failure with a single remedy, so use whichever code your display shows and follow the same steps.

How does this differ from F27 overflow? F27 describes the tub actually overfilling and lists the inlet valve or the water level pressure switch. F32 and F35 describe a failure of the sensor's own signal.

Which parts does the chart list for F32 and F35? The water level sensor and the wire harness, checked in that order with the harness first.

If the sensor has to be replaced, get it quoted with the right part number for your series before ordering

Stop and turn off the water supply at once if the tub is filling past its normal level while the code is showing

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F33

Listed as drain pump relay failure on the main electronic control board.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the main electronic control board and the drain pump. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the main electronic control board because the drain pump relay failed. Parts named: main electronic control board, wire harness.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the main electronic control board and the drain pump: F33 appears and the drain pump does not run when the washer calls for a drain. Unplug the washer and check both ends of the pump harness for a connector that has slipped or a pinched wire
• The drain pump relay on the main electronic control board has failed: The harness is sound and the pump still never receives power when the washer tries to drain. The chart says to replace the main electronic control board because the relay that switches the drain pump has failed

Reconnect loose wires and replace a damaged harness. This is the chart's first check and costs nothing.

The chart's reasoning is that the drain pump relay on the board has failed, so the pump itself is not the fault; do not replace the pump for this code.

The pump should start when a drain is called and the tub should empty. If it does, the relay repair worked.

Screwdriver or nut driver for the cabinet panel, a flashlight, and towels for any water near the pump.

HE2 chart.

Main electronic control board and wire harness.

Does F33 mean the drain pump has failed? No. The chart says the relay on the main electronic control board that switches the pump has failed, so the remedy is the board rather than the pump.

Can I replace only the relay? The chart lists the whole main electronic control board, not the relay alone.

The main electronic control board is the costliest part on the chart; confirm the harness first and get a quote before ordering

Stop if water is close to the control board or the harness; keep the washer unplugged until it is dry

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F61 or F65

Listed as steamer communication failure.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the steamer electronic control board and the main electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the steamer electronic control board. After replacing the steamer electronic control board, run the diagnostic test cycle to clear the error code and initialize the new steamer electronic control board. To enter the diagnostic test, plug in the washer and close the door. With the tub empty and the control off, select any one key except Stop/Cancel or Control Lock and press the key in this pattern: press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds.

After the 5th iteration, the control will display the last stored error code (F61). Press the same selected key to display and move past any other saved error codes. The control will save and display up to 4 error codes. After you display all of the saved error codes, press the same selected key again to enter the diagnostic test cycle. The version numbers of the control boards will display and then all green console LED lights will turn on for 5 seconds. The washer then begins the automatic test cycle.

C:00 through C:09 will appear in the display as the test progresses. The diagnostic test will end after a few minutes and the control will shut off. You can then use the washer again. Parts named: steamer electronic control board, wire harness.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the steamer electronic control board and the main electronic control board: F61 or F65 appears on a steam model when the steam feature is used or at start-up. Unplug the washer and check both ends of the harness for a connector that has slipped or a wire that has been pinched
• The steamer electronic control board has failed: The harness is sound and the code returns every time. The chart replaces the steamer electronic control board once the harness connections are ruled out

and replace the harness if it is damaged; the chart puts this check first because it needs no parts.

That is the chart's remedy for F61 and F65; match the part to your steam model number.

The HE5 steam chart's diagnostic test: plug in the washer and close the door, tub empty and control off, pick any key except Stop/Cancel or Control Lock, then press and hold 3 seconds and release, five times in a row. The display shows the last stored code (up to 4 are kept); press the same key to step through them, and once more to start the automatic test, which shows C:00 through C:09 and ends after a few minutes.

Screwdriver or nut driver for the panels and a flashlight to check the connectors; the diagnostic test needs no tools.

HE5 steam model only.

Steamer electronic control board and wire harness.

Why does the chart require the diagnostic test after replacing the board? The chart says running the diagnostic test cycle clears the error code and initialises the new steamer electronic control board.

Why does F61 appear first in the diagnostic? The chart says the control displays the last stored error code, which it shows as F61 in the example, before you step to any others.

Is this on every Kenmore front-load washer? No. Steamer codes appear on the HE5 steam chart, because only the steam model has a steamer and its own control board.

Replacing the steamer board also requires the diagnostic test to initialise the new board; book the job if you are not comfortable with the entry sequence

Unplug the washer before touching either board, because both carry mains voltage

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F62

Listed as steamer electronic control board failure.

One of the steamer electronic control board relays failed. Unplug the washer and replace the steamer electronic control board. After replacing the steamer electronic control board, run the diagnostic test cycle to clear the error code and initialize the new steamer electronic control board. To enter the diagnostic test, plug in the washer and close the door. With the tub empty and the control off, select any one key except Stop/Cancel or Control Lock and press the key in this pattern: press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds.

After the 5th iteration, the control will display the last stored error code (F61). Press the same selected key to display and move past any other saved error codes. The control will save and display up to 4 error codes. After you display all of the saved error codes, press the same selected key again to enter the diagnostic test cycle. The version numbers of the control boards will display and then all green console LED lights will turn on for 5 seconds. The washer then begins the automatic test cycle.

C:00 through C:09 will appear in the display as the test progresses. The diagnostic test will end after a few minutes and the control will shut off. You can then use the washer again to wash laundry. Parts named: steamer electronic control board.

• One of the relays on the steamer electronic control board has failed: F62 appears on a steam model and the steam feature stops working. The chart states that one of the steamer electronic control board relays failed, so no wiring check is listed first
• A replacement steamer board that has not been initialised: The code returns straight after a board was replaced and the diagnostic test was not run. The chart says to run the diagnostic test cycle to clear the code and initialise the new steamer electronic control board
• A power surge or outage that damaged the electronics: The code first appeared after a storm, outage or tripped breaker and the washer had worked normally before. Note the date the code started against any outage, and try a different outlet to rule out a supply fault

The chart lists this straight away for F62 because a relay on the board has failed.

The HE5 steam chart's diagnostic test: plug in the washer and close the door, tub empty and control off, pick any key except Stop/Cancel or Control Lock, then press and hold 3 seconds and release, five times in a row. The display shows the last stored code (up to 4 are kept); press the same key to step through them, and once more to start the automatic test, which shows C:00 through C:09 and ends after a few minutes.

After the diagnostic test ends and the control shuts off, run a steam option and confirm no code appears.

Screwdriver or nut driver for the panels and a flashlight; the diagnostic test needs no tools.

Steamer electronic control board.

Do I need to check any wiring before replacing the board for F62? The chart lists no wiring check for F62. It says one of the board's relays has failed and goes straight to replacing the steamer electronic control board.

Why run the diagnostic test afterwards? The chart says it clears the error code and initialises the new steamer electronic control board.

The chart's remedy is a new steamer electronic control board followed by the diagnostic test; quote it before ordering

Unplug the washer before touching the board; it carries mains voltage

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F63

Listed as steamer failure.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the steamer and the steamer electronic control board. Reconnect any loose wire or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the steamer. Run the diagnostic test to clear the error code and reset the washer. To enter the diagnostic test, plug in the washer and close the door. With the tub empty and the control off, select any one key except Stop/Cancel or Control Lock and press the key in this pattern: press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds.

After the 5th iteration, the control will display the last stored error code (F61). Press the same selected key to display and move past any other saved error codes. The control will save and display up to 4 error codes. After you display all of the saved error codes, press the same selected key again to enter the diagnostic test cycle. The version numbers of the control boards will display and then all green console LED lights will turn on for 5 seconds. The washer then begins the automatic test cycle.

C:00 through C:09 will appear in the display as the test progresses. The diagnostic test will end after a few minutes and the control will shut off. You can then use the washer again. Parts named: steamer, wire harness.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the steamer and the steamer electronic control board: F63 appears on a steam model and steam is not produced. Unplug the washer and check both ends of the harness; the chart names this first
• The steamer itself has failed: The harness is sound and the code returns every time steam is used. The chart replaces the steamer once the harness connections are confirmed good
• A stored error that remains until the diagnostic test is run: The code persists or returns after a repair has already been made. Run the diagnostic test; the chart says it clears the error and resets the washer

Reconnect any loose wire or replace a damaged harness, checking both connector ends for bent or burnt pins.

That is the chart's remedy; do not order it before the harness is ruled out.

The HE5 steam chart's diagnostic test: plug in the washer and close the door, tub empty and control off, pick any key except Stop/Cancel or Control Lock, then press and hold 3 seconds and release, five times in a row. The display shows the last stored code (up to 4 are kept); press the same key to step through them, and once more to start the automatic test, which shows C:00 through C:09 and ends after a few minutes.

Screwdriver or nut driver for the panels, a flashlight for the connectors and towels for the steamer water lines.

Steamer and wire harness.

Do I always need the diagnostic test? The chart says to run it to clear the error code and reset the washer after the repair.

Does this apply to plain HE5 or HE2 washers? No. Only the steam model has a steamer, so these codes appear only on the HE5 steam chart.

The steamer involves plumbing and mains power; book the job if you are not comfortable with both

Stop for water around the steamer or a burnt smell at its connector

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F64

Listed as steamer inlet valve failure.

The steamer inlet valve is part of the inlet water valve assembly. Unplug the washer and replace the inlet water valve assembly. Run the diagnostic test to clear the error code and reset the washer. To enter the diagnostic test, plug in the washer and close the door. With the tub empty and the control off, select any one key except Stop/Cancel or Control Lock and press the key in this pattern: press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds, release, press and hold for 3 seconds.

After the 5th iteration, the control will display the last stored error code (F61). Press the same selected key to display and move past any other saved error codes. The control will save and display up to 4 error codes. After you display all of the saved error codes, press the same selected key again to enter the diagnostic test cycle. The version numbers of the control boards will display and then all green console LED lights will turn on for 5 seconds. The washer then begins the automatic test cycle.

C:00 through C:09 will appear in the display as the test progresses. The diagnostic test will end after a few minutes and the control will shut off. You can then use the washer again to wash laundry. Parts named: inlet water valve assembly.

• The steamer inlet valve has failed: F64 appears on a steam model and no steam is produced, or steam water does not enter. The chart says the steamer inlet valve is part of the inlet water valve assembly and the assembly is replaced
• A supply problem starving the valve, such as a closed faucet or a kinked fill hose: Steam does not start and the normal fills are also slow or weak. Check that both supply faucets are fully open and the fill hoses are straight before condemning the valve assembly
• A stored error left over from before the repair that only the diagnostic test clears: The code returns after the assembly was replaced and the diagnostic test was not run. Run the diagnostic test; the chart says it clears the error code and resets the washer

The chart says the steamer inlet valve is part of that assembly, so there is no separate valve to buy.

The HE5 steam chart's diagnostic test: plug in the washer and close the door, tub empty and control off, pick any key except Stop/Cancel or Control Lock, then press and hold 3 seconds and release, five times in a row. The display shows the last stored code (up to 4 are kept); press the same key to step through them, and once more to start the automatic test, which shows C:00 through C:09 and ends after a few minutes.

Confirm both fill correctly and that no code returns, then run a full cycle to be sure the repair has held.

Towels and a bucket for hose water, a screwdriver or nut driver, and pliers or a wrench for the hose couplings.

Inlet water valve assembly.

Can I replace only the steamer valve? The chart says the steamer inlet valve is part of the inlet water valve assembly, so the whole assembly is replaced.

Is this the same valve as the F20 no-fill valve? F20 also lists the water inlet valve assembly. F64 is specifically the steamer inlet valve within that assembly on the steam model.

Do I need the diagnostic test afterwards? Yes. The chart says to run the diagnostic test to clear the error code and reset the washer.

The inlet water valve assembly is a mains and water job; book it if you are not comfortable with both

Turn off the water supply at the faucets before removing the assembly

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F70 or F71

Listed as no communication between the main electronic control board and the user interface control.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the main electronic control board and the user interface control. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire connections are okay and the drum rotates before the code appears, replace the user interface control. Replace the main electronic control board if the drum doesn't rotate before the code appears. Parts named: main electronic control board, user interface control, wire harness.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the main electronic control board and the user interface control: F70 or F71 appears and the console may go dark or ignore buttons. Unplug the washer and check both ends of the harness for a connector that has slipped or a wire that has been pinched
• The user interface control has failed: The drum rotates before the code appears, so the main board is running the washer but the console has stopped answering. Watch whether the drum turns before F70 or F71 shows; the chart replaces the user interface control in this case
• The main electronic control board has failed: The drum does not rotate before the code appears, which points at the board rather than the console. The chart replaces the main electronic control board when the drum does not rotate before the code appears

Reconnect loose wires and replace a damaged harness; this is the chart's first step and it costs nothing to check.

This one observation decides which part the chart replaces, so watch a start carefully and note it before ordering anything.

If the drum rotates first, replace the user interface control. If the drum does not rotate first, replace the main electronic control board.

Screwdriver or nut driver to open the console and a flashlight to check the connectors.

Does the drum rotate before the code appears (chart).

Main electronic control board, user interface control, wire harness.

How do I decide between the console and the main board? The chart uses the drum: if the drum rotates before the code appears, replace the user interface control; if it does not, replace the main electronic control board.

Is there a reset for F70 or F71? The chart lists no reset. It goes straight from the harness check to the drum test and the part it selects.

Both replacement parts are costly; decide which one the drum test points to and quote that part before ordering

Do not open the console or the control housing with the washer plugged in

Kenmore HE2, HE5 and HE5 steam model front-load washer code F74 or F99

Listed as user interface control or main electronic control board failure.

Unplug the washer and replace the user interface control. If the problem continues, replace the main electronic control board. Parts named: user interface control, main electronic control board.

• The user interface control has failed: F74 or F99 appears and the console is unresponsive or the washer will not start. The chart names the user interface control as the first part to replace for these codes
• The main electronic control board has failed: The code continues after the user interface control has been replaced. The chart says if the problem continues, replace the main electronic control board
• A power surge or outage that damaged the electronics: The code first appeared after a storm, outage or tripped breaker and the washer had worked normally before. Note the date the code started against any outage, and try a different outlet to rule out a supply fault

Both boards carry line voltage, and the chart's replacement steps start with the washer unplugged.

It is the first part the chart lists for F74 and F99; match it to your full model number.

This is the chart's second step. Do not order both boards together; the order avoids replacing a board that was never faulty.

Screwdriver or nut driver to open the console and a flashlight to check the connectors.

HE5 and HE5 steam charts.

User interface control, then the main electronic control board if the code continues.

Which board is replaced first for F74 or F99? The user interface control. The chart replaces it first and moves to the main electronic control board only if the problem continues.

Is there anything to check before ordering a board? The chart lists no wiring check for these codes; it goes straight to the user interface control. A note of when the code appears helps confirm the diagnosis.

This chart lists two costly boards in a fixed order; quote the user interface control first and only then consider the main board

Unplug the washer before touching either board; both carry mains voltage