Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer error codes

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e11-1-beep-1-beep-fill-time-too-long

Listed as fill time too long.

Make sure that the water supply faucets behind the laundry center are fully open.

Check for frozen fill lines in the winter. Unplug the laundry center and disconnect the fill hoses from the back of the washer. Check for proper water flow through the fill hoses. If water flow is inadequate, have a plumber repair the water supply to the faucets. If water flows okay, check the inlet screens on the water valve assembly. If you find clogged screens, replace the water valve assembly rather than cleaning the screens. Cleaning could allow debris to enter the valves, resulting in the valves sticking open and causing a flood.

Check the drain hose for proper installation. An improperly installed drain hose causes fill water to siphon out through the washer drain. If you find no problems with the above issues, you'll likely need to replace the water valve assembly. Parts named: water valve assembly.

• The supply faucets behind the laundry center are not fully open, or a fill line is frozen: The tub fills very slowly or stops short and the control reports 1 beep, 1 beep. Open both faucets fully and, in winter, check the lines for ice; the chart names both first
• Weak flow through the fill hoses from a fault at the house supply: Water trickles from a disconnected hose even with the faucet wide open. Unplug the laundry center, disconnect the fill hoses and check the flow into a bucket
• Clogged screens on the water valve assembly: Hose flow is good but the tub still fills slowly. Look at the inlet screens; the chart replaces the valve assembly rather than cleaning clogged screens
• Fill water siphoning out through a badly installed drain hose: The tub fills, then loses water, and the drain hose sits too far down the standpipe. Check the drain hose installation, which the chart says lets fill water siphon out through the drain

Pull the laundry center forward a little to see behind it, with towels ready for drips at the hose connections; frozen lines are only a winter cause.

Point each hose into a bucket and open the faucet. If the flow is weak, the chart says a plumber repairs the supply, because the laundry center is not at fault.

The chart replaces the water valve assembly with clogged screens rather than cleaning them, because loosened debris can leave the valves stuck open and flooding.

1 beep, 1 beep (chart).

Water valve assembly.

Towels and a bucket for hose water, and a screwdriver or nut driver if you go on to the valve.

What do 1 beep, 1 beep mean on this laundry center? The washer flashes E11 as a beep pattern: one beep, a pause, then one more. The chart lists it as the fill taking too long.

Why does the chart replace the valve instead of cleaning its screens? It warns that cleaning could let debris into the valves so they stick open and cause a flood, so a clogged-screen assembly is replaced.

Can the drain hose affect filling? Yes. An improperly installed drain hose lets fill water siphon out through the drain, so the tub never fills in time.

If the house supply flow is poor, the chart says to have a plumber repair the supply to the faucets rather than the laundry center

Stop and shut the faucets if a hose connection leaks or the tub fills past its normal level

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e13-1-beep-3-beeps-water-leak-in-the-tub-or-air-leak-in

Listed as water leak in the tub or air leak in the water level pressure sensor air hose.

Check the drain hose for proper installation.

An improperly installed drain hose causes fill water to siphon out through the washer drain. Manually drain the water out of the washer. Unplug the laundry center and check the washer outer tub for cracks or leaks such as water dripping from the bottom of the washer tub or a hose. Replace the tub if it leaks. If you don't find any water leaks, check the water level sensor air hose for air leaks. Replace the air hose if it leaks. If the hose doesn't leak, replace the water level sensor because it's not detecting the water level in the washer. Parts named: outer wash tub, water level sensor air hose, water level sensor.

• A badly installed drain hose letting fill water siphon out: The level never builds and there is no visible leak in the cabinet. Check the drain hose installation first, as the chart says
• A crack or leak in the washer's outer tub: Water drips from the bottom of the tub or from a hose under the laundry center. Drain the washer manually, unplug the laundry center and look for cracks and drips; the chart replaces a leaking tub
• An air leak in the water level sensor air hose: There is no visible water leak but the level reading is unreliable. Check the air hose for splits or loose ends; the chart replaces a leaking air hose
• The water level sensor is not detecting the level: The tub and air hose are both sound and the code returns. The chart replaces the water level sensor because it is not detecting the water level in the washer

The chart begins here for the laundry center: an improperly installed hose lets fill water siphon out, which looks like a leak.

Look at the bottom of the tub and along each hose with a flashlight for cracks and drips. The chart replaces the tub if it leaks.

If you find no water leak, inspect the air hose for splits and replace it if it leaks; if the hose is sound, the chart replaces the water level sensor.

1 beep, 3 beeps (chart).

Outer wash tub, water level sensor air hose and water level sensor.

Towels, a shallow pan and a flashlight, plus a screwdriver or nut driver for the panel.

What do 1 beep, 3 beeps mean? E13 on this laundry center: the washer flashes one beep, a pause, then three beeps. The chart lists it as a water leak in the tub or an air leak in the sensor hose.

Can a drain hose cause E13? The laundry center chart checks the drain hose first, because siphoning through a badly installed hose mimics a leak.

How do I tell an air leak from a water leak? A water leak leaves drips or a wet floor; an air leak leaves nothing to see, so the tub and hoses are checked before the air hose.

A leaking outer tub is a major repair; get it quoted against the laundry center's age before deciding to replace it

Stop and shut off the water if water is reaching the floor or wiring

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e21-2-beeps-1-beep-drains-slowly

Listed as drains slowly.

Check your house's washer drain and the washer's drain hose for clogs and clear any clogs found.

Unplug the laundry center, manually drain the washer and check the drain pump for and clear any clogs. If the drain path is clear, you'll likely need to replace the drain pump. Parts named: drain pump.

• A clog in the house drain or the washer's drain hose: The tub empties slowly and the laundry center flashes 2 beeps, 1 beep. Check the house washer drain and the drain hose for clogs and clear any you find, as the chart says first
• A clog in the drain pump: The pump runs but water leaves slowly, with coins, lint or small items in the pump. Unplug the laundry center, drain the washer manually and check the pump for a clog
• A drain pump that is worn or failing: The drain path is clear and the pump still moves water slowly or not at all. The chart says if the drain path is clear, you will likely need to replace the drain pump

Straighten kinks in the hose, look at how far it enters the standpipe and clear any clog you find with the laundry center unplugged.

Put towels and a shallow pan down first. Clear coins, lint and small items from the pump, which the chart lists before replacing anything.

The chart's remedy once the house drain, hose and pump are confirmed clear; run a drain to confirm afterwards.

2 beeps, 1 beep (chart).

Drain pump.

Towels, a shallow pan, and a screwdriver or nut driver for the front panel.

Can suds slow the drain? Heavy suds can; see the excessive suds code EF2 before replacing the pump if the tub is full of foam.

A slow drain that continues with a clear path means a new drain pump, so get it quoted before ordering

Stop and shut off the laundry center if wastewater backs up out of the standpipe onto the floor

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e31-3-beeps-1-beep-water-level-sensor-is-faulty

Listed as water level sensor is faulty.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the water level sensor and the washer electronic control board. and repair any broken wires. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the water level sensor. If the problem continues, replace the washer electronic control board. Parts named: water level sensor, washer electronic control board.

• A loose or broken wire in the harness between the water level sensor and the washer electronic control board: The laundry center flashes 3 beeps, 1 beep and the tub level cannot be read. Unplug the laundry center and check the harness; the chart says reconnect loose wires and repair broken ones
• The water level sensor has failed: The harness is sound and the code returns whenever the control tries to read the level. The chart replaces the water level sensor if the wire harness connections are okay
• The washer electronic control board has failed: A new sensor was fitted and the problem continues. The chart says if the problem continues, replace the washer electronic control board

and repair any broken wires; look for chafed insulation and bent pins at both ends.

That is the chart's first part for E31 on the laundry center; match the sensor to your full model number before ordering it.

The chart's last step for E31, taken only after the sensor has already been replaced and the code continues.

Water level sensor and washer electronic control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver, a flashlight for the connectors and towels for any water.

Should I check the wiring first? Yes; the chart does, and repairing a broken wire costs far less than a sensor.

Replace the sensor first and only then the board, as the chart orders them; get each quoted before ordering

Stop if the tub is filling past its normal level while the code is showing

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e35-3-beeps-5-beeps-water-level-sensor-detects-overfill

Listed as water level sensor detects overfill.

If the washer overfilled, unplug the power cord and see if water continues to fill the tub. If so, replace the water valve assembly because a water valve isn't closing. If the washer didn't overfill, you'll likely need to replace the water level sensor because it isn't accurately detecting water level. Parts named: water valve assembly, water level sensor.

• A water valve that is not shutting off and is overfilling the tub: The tub is genuinely overfull and water keeps entering. Unplug the power cord: the chart says if water continues to fill the tub, a water valve is not closing
• The water level sensor reports an overfill that is not real: The tub was not overfull and the laundry center flashes 3 beeps, 5 beeps. The chart says if the washer did not overfill, you will likely need to replace the water level sensor
• A kinked or leaking sensor air hose giving a false high reading: The reading is wrong but the tub is not overfull and the valve shuts off normally. Check the air hose for a kink, leak or water in the line before replacing the sensor, as in the E13 checks

If the washer overfilled, unplug the power cord and see whether water continues to fill the tub; this is the chart's test for the water valve.

Only a valve that is not closing lets water in with no power applied, so this separates the valve from the sensor.

The chart replaces it when the washer was not actually overfilling and the sensor is misreporting the level.

Water valve assembly and water level sensor.

Towels and a bucket, and a screwdriver or nut driver for the front panel.

Shut off both supply faucets at once if the tub keeps filling with the laundry center unplugged; the valve assembly then needs replacing

Stop and get help if water is reaching the floor or electrical parts

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e41-4-beeps-1-beep-lid-opened-or-lid-won-t-lock

Listed as lid opened or lid won't lock.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the washer lid lock and the washer electronic control board. and repair any broken wires. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the lid lock. If the problem continues, replace the washer electronic control board. Parts named: washer lid lock, washer electronic control board.

• A loose or broken wire in the harness between the washer lid lock and the washer electronic control board: E41 appears when the lid is closed and the laundry center flashes 4 beeps, 1 beep; the lid was opened or the lid will not lock.. Unplug the laundry center and check both ends of the harness; the chart says reconnect loose wires and repair broken ones
• The lid lock has failed: The wiring connections are sound and the code returns each time a cycle asks the lock to act. The chart says if the wire harness connections are okay, replace the lid lock
• The washer electronic control board has failed: A new lid lock was fitted and the code continues. The chart says if the problem continues after the lid lock, replace the washer electronic control board
• A lid that is not seating fully or is out of alignment with the lock: The lid looks closed but sits slightly proud, or needs a firm push to latch. Close the lid squarely and check nothing is caught in the seal or lock before replacing any part

and repair any broken ones, looking for chafed insulation and bent or burnt pins at both ends of the harness.

That is the chart's first part for E41; match the lock to your full model number, because the lock and its switch are one part.

The chart's last step for E41, taken only after the lid lock has already been replaced and the code continues.

4 beeps, 1 beep (chart).

Washer lid lock and washer electronic control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver for the washer's cabinet panel and a flashlight for the lid lock and connectors.

Replace the lid lock first and only then the washer electronic control board, as the chart orders them; get each quoted first

Never bypass or tape the lid lock, because it is the safety interlock that stops the basket with the lid open

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e42-4-beeps-2-beeps-lid-won-t-unlock

Listed as lid won't unlock.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the washer lid lock and the washer electronic control board. and repair any broken wires. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the lid lock. If the problem continues, replace the washer electronic control board. Parts named: washer lid lock, washer electronic control board.

• A loose or broken wire in the harness between the washer lid lock and the washer electronic control board: E42 appears when the lid is closed and the laundry center flashes 4 beeps, 2 beeps; the lid will not unlock.. Unplug the laundry center and check both ends of the harness; the chart says reconnect loose wires and repair broken ones
• A lid lock held shut by a jammed latch or debris: The lid stays locked after the cycle and a small item may be visible near the latch. Check the latch area for debris once the washer is unplugged and the lock has released

4 beeps, 2 beeps (chart).

How do I get the lid open with E42? Unplug the laundry center and let the lock release; do not force the lid, since the lock is the safety interlock.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e43-4-beeps-3-beeps-lid-lock-defective

Listed as lid lock defective.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the washer lid lock and the washer electronic control board. and repair any broken wires. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the lid lock. If the problem continues, replace the washer electronic control board. Parts named: washer lid lock, washer electronic control board.

• A loose or broken wire in the harness between the washer lid lock and the washer electronic control board: E43 appears when the lid is closed and the laundry center flashes 4 beeps, 3 beeps; the lid lock is defective.. Unplug the laundry center and check both ends of the harness; the chart says reconnect loose wires and repair broken ones
• A lid lock that has worn out or failed internally: The lock clicks weakly, sticks or fails to engage even though the lid seats properly. Note whether the lock moves freely and engages with a normal click when the cycle starts

Is E43 the same as E44 or E45? All three use the same ladder. E43 says the lid lock is defective; E44 a communication failure; E45 an input failure.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e45-4-beeps-5-beeps-lid-lock-input-failure

Listed as lid lock input failure.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the washer lid lock and the washer electronic control board. and repair any broken wires. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the lid lock. If the problem continues, replace the washer electronic control board. Parts named: washer lid lock, washer electronic control board.

• A loose or broken wire in the harness between the washer lid lock and the washer electronic control board: E45 appears when the lid is closed and the laundry center flashes 4 beeps, 5 beeps; the lid lock input failed.. Unplug the laundry center and check both ends of the harness; the chart says reconnect loose wires and repair broken ones
• A lid lock switch that is sending an unreliable signal: The lid is closed and locked but the control reads the input as open or unstable. Watch whether the code appears only during agitation or spin, which points at the lock's switch contacts

What does 'input failure' mean for E45? The control is not getting a valid signal from the lid lock's switch contacts, so the wiring and the lock are checked in that order.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e55-5-beeps-5-beeps-drive-motor-under-speed

Listed as drive motor under speed.

Load capacity is about 20 pounds. Remove some items if you find the basket overloaded. Check for water in the tub. If you find water, check for excessive suds. The drain pump can't remove the water before the spin cycle if the water is too sudsy. If you don't find excessive suds, check your house's washer drain and the washer's drain hose for clogs and clear any clogs found. Unplug the laundry center, manually drain the washer and check the drain pump for a clog. If the drain path is clear, you'll likely need to replace the drain pump.

If you didn't find water in the tub, pull out the clothes and manually spin the tub to see if it rotates smoothly. If not, then the motor and gear case could have failed or an obstruction in the drive system could be the problem. Unplug the laundry center and remove the agitator. Pull out the spin basket and check for obstructions between the spin basket and the outer tub. If you find no obstructions, replace the motor and gear case. Parts named: drain pump, motor and gear case.

• An overloaded basket that the motor cannot bring up to speed: E55 appears in spin with a heavy load, and the laundry center struggles or hums. Check the load against the chart's capacity of about 20 pounds and remove items if the basket is overloaded
• Water left in the tub, from excessive suds or a slow drain, dragging the basket: The tub still holds water before the spin cycle starts. Look for suds first, then check the house drain, drain hose and drain pump for clogs, in the chart's order
• An obstruction between the spin basket and the outer tub, or a failed drive: The tub does not rotate smoothly by hand with the clothes removed. Remove the agitator, lift out the spin basket and look for an obstruction; the chart replaces the motor and gear case if you find none

The chart gives the load capacity as about 20 pounds; a lighter load is the free fix and rules out the commonest cause.

The chart says the drain pump cannot remove sudsy water before the spin cycle; check the house drain, hose and pump for clogs and replace the pump if the path is clear.

If it does not rotate smoothly, unplug the laundry center, remove the agitator, lift out the basket and look for an obstruction. With none found, the chart replaces the motor and gear case.

About 20 pounds (chart).

Drain pump and motor and gear case.

A screwdriver or nut driver for the front washer panel, a flashlight, and a multimeter for the winding readings.

What is the load limit? About 20 pounds, per the chart.

Can suds cause E55? Yes; leftover sudsy water drags the basket, which is why the chart checks suds before the drive.

A motor and gear case replacement is a major repair, so get it quoted before deciding whether the laundry center is worth repairing

Never reach into the tub or remove the agitator with the laundry center plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e58-5-beeps-8-beeps-high-current-on-the-drive-motor

Listed as high current on the drive motor.

Load capacity is about 20 pounds. Check for excessive suds in the tub. The drain pump can't remove the water before the spin cycle if the water is too sudsy. The remaining water can cause motor drag resulting in high motor current draw. If you find excessive suds, remove the clothes, bail out the sudsy water and then rewash the load. If you didn't find excessive suds, unplug the laundry center. Remove the front washer panel and check the wire harness connections between the motor control board and motor and gear case.

or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness is okay, manually spin the tub to see if it rotates smoothly. If not, then the motor and gear case could be broken or an obstruction in the drive system could be the problem. Unplug the laundry center and remove the agitator. Pull out the spin basket and check for obstructions between the spin basket and the outer tub. If you find no obstructions, check the resistance of the motor windings-you should measure between 6 and 8 ohms on each motor winding.

If you don't measure resistance within that range on each motor winding, replace the motor and gear case. If motor winding resistance is okay, replace the motor control board. Parts named: wire harness, motor and gear case, motor control board.

• An overloaded basket or a drag from sudsy water left in the tub: E58 appears in spin, the motor housing is hot and the basket is heavy or wet. Check the load against about 20 pounds, then look for excessive suds; the chart's remedy is to bail out the suds and rewash
• A loose or damaged harness between the motor control board and the motor and gear case: The load and suds are fine but the code returns. Unplug the laundry center, remove the front washer panel and check the harness, as the chart says
• Bad motor windings: The tub turns smoothly but a winding reads outside 6 to 8 ohms. Measure each winding with a multimeter; the chart replaces the motor and gear case unless every winding reads between 6 and 8 ohms
• The motor control board is misreading a good motor: Wiring, tub and windings are all good and E58 returns. The chart says if the winding resistance is okay, replace the motor control board

The chart says remaining sudsy water can drag the motor and raise its current; if you find suds, remove the clothes, bail out the water and rewash the load.

Remove the front washer panel; reconnect loose wires or replace a damaged harness, then spin the tub by hand to feel for roughness.

The chart expects between 6 and 8 ohms on each winding; outside that, replace the motor and gear case, and if the windings are okay, replace the motor control board.

6 to 8 ohms on each motor winding (chart).

Wire harness, motor and gear case and motor control board.

Why check suds for a current code? Water left in the tub makes the motor drag, which draws more current.

A bad reading means replacing the motor and gear case, a major job, so get it quoted first

Never measure the motor or work behind the panel with the laundry center plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e59-5-beeps-9-beeps-no-tachometer-signal-for-3-seconds

Listed as no tachometer signal for 3 seconds.

Load capacity is about 20 pounds. Pull out some of the load and restart the cycle. If you didn't overload the washer, unplug the laundry center and remove the front washer panel. Check the wire harness connections between the motor control board and the motor and gear case. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness is okay, manually spin the tub to see if it rotates smoothly. If not, then the motor and gear case could have failed or an obstruction in the drive system could be the problem.

Remove the load. Pull off the agitator then pull out the spin basket and check for obstructions between the spin basket and the outer tub. If you find no obstructions, check the resistance of the motor windings-you should measure between 6 and 8 ohms on each motor winding. If you don't measure resistance within that range on each motor winding, replace the motor and gear case. If motor winding resistance is okay, replace the motor control board. Parts named: wire harness, motor and gear case, motor control board.

• An overloaded basket that will not turn, so no speed signal is produced: E59 appears at the start of agitation or spin with a heavy load and the basket does not move. Pull out some of the load and restart, as the chart says for loads over about 20 pounds
• A loose or damaged harness between the motor control board and the motor and gear case: The load is fine and the basket does not turn. Unplug the laundry center, remove the front washer panel and check the harness
• A jammed tub or a failed motor and gear case: The tub does not rotate smoothly by hand, or a winding reads outside 6 to 8 ohms. Remove the load, pull off the agitator and the spin basket and look for an obstruction; then check each winding
• The motor control board is not seeing a good signal: Wiring, tub and windings are all good and E59 returns. The chart says if the winding resistance is okay, replace the motor control board

The chart gives about 20 pounds and says to pull out some of the load; an overloaded basket is the cheapest cause.

or replace a damaged harness, then spin the tub by hand to feel for roughness.

Remove the agitator and spin basket to look between the basket and outer tub; the chart then expects 6 to 8 ohms on each winding before it replaces the motor control board.

What is a tachometer signal? The motor reports its speed to the control; E59 means none arrived for 3 seconds, so the control assumes the basket is not turning.

Where does the ladder end? At the motor control board, once the harness, tub and windings are good.

A failed motor and gear case is a major repair, so quote it before deciding

Never reach into the tub or remove the agitator with the laundry center plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e5a-5-beeps-10-beeps-motor-control-board-is-overheated

Listed as motor control board is overheated.

Load capacity is about 20 pounds. Pull out some of the load and restart the cycle. If you didn't overload the washer, unplug the laundry center. Remove the front washer panel and check the wire harness connections between the motor control board and motor and gear case. or replace the wire harness if damaged. Check the resistance of the motor windings – you should measure between 6 and 8 ohms on each motor winding. If you don't measure resistance within that range on each motor winding, replace the motor and gear case. If motor winding resistance is okay, replace the motor control board. Parts named: wire harness, motor and gear case, motor control board.

• An overloaded basket that overworks the motor and the board: E5A appears in spin with a heavy load and the board area is hot. Check the load against about 20 pounds and pull out some of it before restarting
• A loose or damaged harness between the motor control board and the motor and gear case: The load is normal and the code still returns after a restart. Unplug the laundry center, remove the front washer panel and check the harness
• A motor winding that has failed and is loading the board: A winding reads outside the 6 to 8 ohm range when measured. Measure each winding; the chart replaces the motor and gear case if any is out of range
• The motor control board has failed: Load, wiring and windings are all good and E5A returns. The chart says if the winding resistance is okay, replace the motor control board

The chart gives about 20 pounds and says to pull out some of the load; an overloaded washer overheats the board.

Remove the front washer panel; reconnect loose wires or replace a damaged harness, checking both connector ends for burnt or bent pins.

The chart expects 6 to 8 ohms on each winding; outside that, replace the motor and gear case.

Can a light load fix E5A? Sometimes; the chart's first step is to pull out part of the load and restart.

Get the motor and gear case or board quoted before ordering

Stop and unplug if there is a burning smell near the board

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e5c-5-beeps-12-beeps-high-voltage-at-the-motor-control

Listed as high voltage at the motor control board.

High power supply voltage caused by power surges during an electrical storm can cause this code. Contact your local electrical supplier to correct voltage supply problems. If the power supply voltage is okay, If the wiring connections are okay, replace the motor control board. If the problem continues, replace the washer electronic control board. Parts named: motor control board, washer electronic control board.

• High supply voltage caused by power surges during an electrical storm: E5C appeared during or after a storm or when the utility supply was unstable. Contact your local electrical supplier to check the voltage, as the chart says first
• The motor control board has failed: The supply voltage is okay and the code returns. The chart says if the supply voltage is okay and the wiring is fine, replace the motor control board
• The washer electronic control board has failed: A new motor control board was fitted and the code continues. The chart says if the problem continues, replace the washer electronic control board

The chart says power surges during a storm can cause this code and names the supplier as the first call.

That is the chart's first part once the supply is proven good; quote it against the laundry center's age before ordering.

The chart's last step for E5C, taken only after the motor control board has already been replaced and the code continues.

Motor control board and washer electronic control board.

None for the supply check; a screwdriver or nut driver if you replace a board.

Can a storm cause E5C? Yes; the chart says power surges during an electrical storm can cause it.

A high supply is the electrical supplier's or an electrician's job before any part is bought

Never test line voltage unless you know how to do it safely

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e5d-5-beeps-13-beeps-communication-error-between-the-motor

Listed as communication error between the motor control board and washer electronic control board.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connection between the motor control board and the washer electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wiring connections are okay, replace the motor control board. If the problem continues, replace the washer electronic control board. Parts named: wire harness, motor control board, washer electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged harness between the motor control board and the washer electronic control board: E5D appears at start and the motor board does not answer the main board. Unplug the laundry center and check the harness, which the chart puts first
• The motor control board has failed: The wiring connections are okay and E5D still returns on every start. The chart says if the wiring connections are okay, replace the motor control board
• The washer electronic control board has failed: A new motor control board was fitted and the problem continues. The chart says if the problem continues, replace the washer electronic control board

Reconnect loose wires or replace the harness if it is damaged, checking both connector ends for burnt or bent pins.

The chart's first part for E5D; match the board to your full model number before ordering, because boards differ between series.

Wire harness, motor control board and washer electronic control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver and a flashlight for the connectors.

Is E5D like E98? E98 is a mismatch between the same two boards and adds an unplug-and-test step.

Replace the motor control board first and only then the main board, as the chart orders them

Never work on the harness with the laundry center plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e5e-5-beeps-14-beeps-communication-error-between-the-user

Listed as communication error between the user interface board, motor control board and washer electronic control board.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the user interface board and the washer electronic control board. Also check the wire harness connections between the motor control board and the washer electronic control board. or replace any damaged wire harnesses. If the wiring connections are okay, replace the user interface board. If the problem continues, replace the motor control board. If the problem still continues, replace the washer electronic control board. Parts named: wire harness, user interface board, motor control board, washer electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged harness at either the user interface board or the motor control board: E5E appears and both the console and the motor may be affected. Unplug the laundry center and check the harness between the user interface board and the control board, and between the motor control board and the control board
• The user interface board has failed: Both harnesses are sound and the code still returns on every start. The chart says if the wiring connections are okay, replace the user interface board
• The motor control board has failed: A new user interface board was fitted and the problem continues. The chart says if the problem continues, replace the motor control board
• The washer electronic control board has failed: Both replaced boards did not clear the code at all. The chart says if the problem still continues, replace the washer electronic control board

Look at the user interface board and motor control board harnesses; reconnect loose wires and replace any that are damaged.

The chart's order: user interface board first; if the problem continues, the motor control board.

That is the chart's final step for E5E, taken only after the other two boards have both been replaced.

Wire harness, user interface board, motor control board and washer electronic control board.

Why are three boards involved? The control board talks to both the console and the motor board; E5E says communication among all three failed.

This is a three-board ladder; replace one at a time in the chart's order and quote each first

Never work on the boards with the laundry center plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e5f-5-beeps-15-beeps-motor-control-board-failure

Listed as motor control board failure.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connection between the motor control board and the washer electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wiring connections are okay, replace the motor control board. If the problem continues, replace the washer electronic control board. Parts named: wire harness, motor control board, washer electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged harness between the motor control board and the washer electronic control board: E5F appears when the motor is called and the basket does not respond. Unplug the laundry center and check the harness, which the chart puts first
• The motor control board has failed: The wiring connections are okay and E5F still returns on every start. The chart says if the wiring connections are okay, replace the motor control board

Reconnect loose wires or replace the harness if it is damaged, checking both connector ends for burnt or bent pins.

The chart's first part for E5F; match the board to your full model number before ordering, because boards differ between series.

Replace the motor control board first and only then the main board

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e5h-5-beeps-17-beeps-low-voltage-at-the-motor-control-board

Listed as low voltage at the motor control board.

Low power supply voltage caused by brownouts or power surges during an electrical storm can cause this code. Contact your local electrical supplier to correct voltage supply problems. If the power supply voltage is okay, unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connection between the motor control board and the washer electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wiring connections are okay, replace the motor control board. If the problem continues, replace the washer electronic control board. Parts named: wire harness, motor control board, washer electronic control board.

• Low supply voltage from a brownout or a power surge during an electrical storm: E5H appeared during or after a storm or a period of dim lights. Contact your local electrical supplier to check the voltage, as the chart says first
• A loose or damaged harness between the motor control board and the washer electronic control board: The supply is okay and the code still returns on every start. Unplug the laundry center and check the harness connection
• The motor control board has failed: The wiring is okay and E5H still returns on every start. The chart says if the wiring connections are okay, replace the motor control board
• The washer electronic control board has failed: A new motor control board did not clear the code. The chart says if the problem continues, replace the washer electronic control board

The chart says brownouts and storm surges cause this code and names the supplier as the first call.

If the supply is okay, unplug the laundry center; reconnect loose wires or replace a damaged harness.

The chart's order once the supply and wiring are good; quote each board against the laundry center's age before ordering it.

None for the supply check; a screwdriver or nut driver and a flashlight for the wiring.

Is E5H the opposite of E5C? Yes: E5C is high voltage and E5H is low voltage at the same board.

Can a brownout cause E5H? Yes, the chart names brownouts and storm surges.

A low supply is the electrical supplier's or an electrician's job before any part is bought

Do not use an extension cord to work around a low supply

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e71-7-beeps-1-beep-washer-temperature-sensor-failure

Listed as washer temperature sensor failure.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the washer temperature sensor and the washer electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. Check the resistance of the temperature sensor using a multimeter. You should measure between 50,000 ohms and 67,000 ohms at room temperature (72 degrees F). If sensor resistance is out of that range, replace the water valve assembly because the temperature sensor is part of the assembly. Parts named: wire harness, water valve assembly.

• A loose or damaged harness between the washer temperature sensor and the washer electronic control board: The laundry center flashes 7 beeps, 1 beep and the water temperature is read wrongly. Unplug the laundry center and check both ends of the harness; the chart says reconnect loose wires or replace a damaged harness
• The temperature sensor, which is part of the water valve assembly, has drifted out of range: The harness is fine and the sensor does not read between 50,000 and 67,000 ohms at 72 degrees F. Measure the sensor with a multimeter at room temperature; the chart replaces the water valve assembly if it reads outside that range
• A measurement taken at the wrong temperature: The reading is close to the range but the room is much warmer or colder than 72 degrees F. Let the laundry center sit at room temperature and measure again before condemning the valve assembly

or replace the harness if it is damaged, looking for bent or corroded pins at both ends.

The chart says you should read between 50,000 and 67,000 ohms at room temperature, 72 degrees F, with the laundry center unplugged.

The chart says the temperature sensor is part of that assembly, so it is not bought separately.

50,000 to 67,000 ohms at 72 degrees F (chart).

Wire harness and water valve assembly.

A screwdriver or nut driver, a flashlight, and a multimeter set to ohms.

What resistance should the sensor read? Between 50,000 and 67,000 ohms at room temperature (72 degrees F), per the chart.

Can I replace the sensor alone? No. The chart says it is part of the water valve assembly, so the assembly is replaced.

A reading outside the range means replacing the whole water valve assembly, so get it quoted before ordering

Never measure the sensor with the laundry center plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e87-8-beeps-7-beeps-user-interface-board-failure

Listed as user interface board failure.

Unplug the laundry center for 5 minutes to reset the washer electronic control board and user interface board. If the code doesn't clear after restoring power, unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the user interface board and the washer electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If you find no wiring problems, replace the user interface board. Parts named: wire harness, user interface board.

• A momentary fault in the control and interface boards that a full power reset clears: E87 shows once and does not return after the laundry center is restarted. Unplug it for 5 minutes to reset the boards, as the chart says first
• A loose or damaged harness between the user interface board and the washer electronic control board: The code returns after the reset and the console is erratic. Unplug the laundry center and check both ends of the harness; reconnect loose wires or replace a damaged harness
• The user interface board has failed: The reset did not clear the code and the harness is sound. The chart says if you find no wiring problems, replace the user interface board

The chart says this resets both the washer electronic control board and the user interface board; leave it the full time.

or replace the harness if it is damaged, checking both connector ends.

That is the chart's remedy for E87; match the board to your full model number.

Wire harness and user interface board.

None for the reset; a screwdriver or nut driver and a flashlight for the harness.

Does a reset fix E87? Sometimes; the chart's first step is a 5-minute unplug to reset both boards.

Is the main board replaced for E87? The chart does not list it; it stops at the user interface board.

A user interface board is a costly part, so get it quoted before ordering

Never open the console with the laundry center plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e91-9-beeps-1-beep-user-interface-board-communication

Listed as user interface board communication failure.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the user interface board and the washer electronic control board. Check the wire harness connections between the motor control board and the washer electronic control board. or replace any wire harness that's damaged. If the wiring connections are okay, replace the user interface board. If the problem continues, replace the motor control board. If the problem still continues, replace the washer electronic control board. Parts named: wire harness, user interface board, motor control board, washer electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged harness at the user interface board or the motor control board: The laundry center flashes 9 beeps, 1 beep and the console or motor may be affected. Unplug it and check the harness from the user interface board and from the motor control board to the washer control board
• The user interface board has failed: Both harnesses are sound and the code still returns. The chart says if the wiring connections are okay, replace the user interface board
• The motor control board has failed: A new user interface board was fitted and the problem continues. The chart says if the problem continues, replace the motor control board
• The washer electronic control board has failed: Both replaced boards did not clear the code at all. The chart says if the problem still continues, replace the washer electronic control board

Both connect to the washer electronic control board; reconnect loose wires and replace any that are damaged.

The chart's order: user interface board first, then the motor control board if the problem continues.

The chart's last step for E91, taken only after the other two boards have both been replaced.

Wire harness, user interface board, motor control board and washer electronic control board.

Why does the chart check the motor board for a console code? All three boards talk through the washer control board, so a fault on either can break communication.

This is a three-board ladder, so replace one board at a time in the chart's order and quote each first

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e92-9-beeps-2-beeps-user-interface-board-failure

Listed as user interface board failure.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the user interface board and the washer electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wiring connections are okay, unplug the user interface board from the washer electronic control board and reassemble the washer. Restore power and run the diagnostic test to see if the E92 code appears with the user interface board unplugged. Replace the user interface board if the code doesn't recur. Replace the washer electronic control board if the code appears with the user interface board unplugged. Parts named: wire harness, user interface board, washer electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged harness between the user interface board and the washer electronic control board: The laundry center flashes 9 beeps, 2 beeps and the console is unreliable. Unplug it and check both ends of the harness; reconnect loose wires or replace a damaged harness
• The user interface board has failed: The code disappears when the interface board is unplugged and the harness is sound. Run the diagnostic test with the interface board unplugged; the chart replaces the board if the code does not recur
• The washer electronic control board has failed: The code still appears with the user interface board unplugged. The chart says replace the washer electronic control board if the code appears with the interface board unplugged

or replace the harness if it is damaged, checking both connector ends for burnt or bent pins.

Restore power and see whether E92 appears with the interface board unplugged; this single test separates the two boards.

If the code does not recur, replace the user interface board; if it appears with the board unplugged, replace the washer electronic control board.

Wire harness, user interface board and washer electronic control board.

How does the unplug test work? With the interface board disconnected, a code that vanishes points to that board; a code that remains points to the main control board.

The unplug test decides which costly board to buy, so run it before ordering either

Never open the console with the laundry center plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e93-9-beeps-3-beeps-washer-electronic-control-board

Listed as washer electronic control board failure.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the user interface board and the washer electronic control board. Check the wire harness connections between the motor control board and the washer electronic control board. or replace any wire harness that's damaged. If the wiring connections are okay, replace the washer electronic control board. Parts named: wire harness, washer electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged harness between the user interface board and the washer electronic control board: The laundry center flashes 9 beeps, 3 beeps and the boards do not agree. Unplug it and check the harness from the user interface board to the control board
• A loose or damaged harness between the motor control board and the washer electronic control board: The first harness is sound and the code returns. Check the second harness the chart names, then reconnect or replace it
• The washer electronic control board has failed: Both harnesses are sound and E93 still returns on every start. The chart says if the wiring connections are okay, replace the washer electronic control board

and replace a damaged harness, checking both connector ends for burnt or bent pins.

The chart names both harnesses for E93; repair or replace whichever one is damaged, then test the laundry center again.

That is the chart's remedy for E93; quote it against the laundry center's age first.

Wire harness and washer electronic control board.

Was this page's address changed? Yes; an earlier address contained a stray character and now redirects here.

The washer electronic control board is the chart's only part beyond wiring, so get it quoted first

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e94-9-beeps-4-beeps-washer-electronic-control-board

Listed as washer electronic control board internal memory failure.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the user interface board and the washer electronic control board. Check the wire harness connections between the motor control board and the washer electronic control board. or replace any wire harness that's damaged. If the wiring connections are okay, replace the washer electronic control board. Parts named: wire harness, washer electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged harness between the user interface board and the washer electronic control board: The laundry center flashes 9 beeps, 4 beeps and the control reports a memory fault. Unplug it and check the harness from the user interface board to the control board
• A loose or damaged harness between the motor control board and the washer electronic control board: The first harness is sound and the code returns. Check the second harness the chart names, then reconnect or replace it
• The control board's internal memory has failed: Both harnesses are sound and E94 returns after every restart. The chart says if the wiring connections are okay, replace the washer electronic control board

and replace a damaged harness, checking both connector ends for burnt or bent pins.

The chart names both harnesses for E94; repair or replace whichever one is damaged, then test the laundry center again.

That is the chart's remedy for an internal memory failure; quote the board against the laundry center's age first.

What is an internal memory failure? The control cannot reliably read or write its stored settings, so the board itself is at fault once the wiring is ruled out.

A failed memory means the control board itself, a costly part, so get it quoted first

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e97-9-beeps-7-beeps-washer-electronic-control-board-and

Listed as washer electronic control board and user interface board mismatch.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connection between the user interface board and the washer electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wiring connections are okay, replace the washer electronic control board. Parts named: wire harness, washer electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged harness between the user interface board and the washer electronic control board: The laundry center flashes 9 beeps, 7 beeps and the two boards do not match. Unplug it and check the harness connection between the two boards
• A control board that does not match the user interface board: A board was recently replaced and the code appeared straight afterwards. Confirm the replacement part number matches your model before assuming a fault
• The washer electronic control board has failed: The wiring is sound and E97 still returns on every start. The chart says if the wiring connections are okay, replace the washer electronic control board

or replace the harness if it is damaged, checking both connector ends for burnt or bent pins.

A recently replaced board of the wrong series produces a mismatch; check part numbers against your model number.

That is the chart's remedy for E97; quote it and match it to your model number.

What is a board mismatch? The control board and the user interface board are not a compatible pair, which usually follows a replacement with the wrong part.

A board mismatch is fixed with the right part, so confirm part numbers before buying another board

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e98-9-beeps-8-beeps-washer-electronic-control-board-and

Listed as washer electronic control board and motor control board mismatch.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connection between the motor control board and the washer electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wiring connections are okay, unplug the motor control board wire harness from the washer electronic control board and reassemble the washer. Restore power and run the diagnostic test to see if the E98 code appears with the motor control board unplugged. Replace the motor control board if the code doesn't recur. Replace the washer electronic control board if the code appears with the motor control board unplugged. Parts named: wire harness, motor control board, washer electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged harness between the motor control board and the washer electronic control board: The laundry center flashes 9 beeps, 8 beeps and the boards do not match. Unplug it and check the harness connection between the two boards
• The motor control board is the mismatched or failed part: The code does not recur when the motor control board is unplugged. Run the diagnostic test with it unplugged; the chart replaces the motor control board if the code does not recur
• The washer electronic control board is the failed part: The code still appears with the motor control board unplugged. The chart says replace the washer electronic control board if the code appears with the motor control board unplugged

or replace the harness if it is damaged, checking both connector ends for burnt or bent pins.

Restore power and see whether E98 appears with the motor board disconnected; the result tells you which board to replace.

If the code does not recur, replace the motor control board; if it appears with it unplugged, replace the washer electronic control board.

How does the test work? With the motor board disconnected, a code that vanishes points to that board; a code that remains points to the main board.

Is E98 like E97? Yes, but E97 concerns the user interface board and E98 the motor control board.

The unplug test decides which costly board to buy, so run it before ordering either

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code e9c-9-beeps-12-beeps-user-interface-board-failure

Listed as user interface board failure.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connection between the user interface board and the washer electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wiring connections are okay, replace the user interface board. Parts named: wire harness, user interface board.

• A loose or damaged harness between the user interface board and the washer electronic control board: The laundry center flashes 9 beeps, 12 beeps and the console is unresponsive or erratic. Unplug it and check the harness connection, which the chart puts first
• The user interface board has failed: The wiring connections are okay and the code returns. The chart says if the wiring connections are okay, replace the user interface board
• Moisture or corrosion at the console connector: The code follows a spill on the console or a damp laundry room. Look at the connector pins for corrosion or water tracks and dry and reseat them

or replace the harness if it is damaged, checking both connector ends for burnt or bent pins.

Dry and reseat the connector; this is a free fix if a spill caused the code, and it should be tried before buying a board.

That is the chart's remedy for E9C; match the replacement board to your washer's full model number before ordering it.

9 beeps, 12 beeps (chart).

Wire harness and user interface board.

A screwdriver or nut driver to open the console and a flashlight for the connector.

Can a spill cause E9C? Moisture at the connector can, and it is worth drying before buying a board.

The user interface board is the chart's only part beyond wiring, so get it quoted first

Stop and keep the power off if you find moisture inside the console

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code eb1-11-beeps-1-beep-incoming-power-frequency-out-of-limits

Listed as incoming power frequency out of limits.

The washer stops and beeps 11 times when incoming power frequency isn't 60 Hz or incoming power voltage isn't correct. You won't be able to start the diagnostic test until you restore incoming power with the right frequency and voltage to the washer. Unplug the washer and have your local electricity provider check the power supply frequency and voltage. If the power supply is okay and the code doesn't clear, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: washer electronic control board.

• The supply is outside what the washer accepts on the incoming frequency, which must be 60 Hz: The laundry center stops and beeps 11 times, and EB1 will not clear until the supply is right. Unplug the washer and have your local electricity provider check the power supply frequency and voltage for EB1
• A generator or inverter feeding the outlet that does not hold 60 Hz: The code appears only when the house is on a generator, inverter or other backup supply. Run the laundry center from the utility supply and see whether the code stays away
• The electronic control board's power sensing has failed and misreads a good supply as EB1: The provider confirms the supply is okay and the code still does not clear. The chart says if the power supply is okay and EB1 does not clear, replace the electronic control board

The chart says the provider checks both the power supply frequency and voltage; for EB1 the fault is the incoming frequency, which must be 60 Hz.

Note whether a generator or backup supply was running when the code appeared, because a source that drifts off 60 Hz is the commonest reason for a frequency code and costs nothing to rule out.

That is the chart's remedy for EB1 (11 beeps, 1 beep); the chart also says the diagnostic test will not start until the supply is right, so restore good power first and quote the board against the laundry center's age.

11 beeps, 1 beep (chart).

Washer electronic control board.

None for the supply check, which the provider does; a screwdriver or nut driver only if you replace the board.

Can a generator cause a frequency code? Yes. A generator or inverter that does not hold 60 Hz can make the washer stop and beep, and running from the utility supply is the quickest test.

Only the electricity provider can verify the supply behind EB1; get the board quoted only after they confirm it is okay

Stop and unplug the laundry center if the breaker trips or lights flicker when it runs

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code eb2-11-beeps-2-beeps-incoming-power-voltage-too-high

Listed as incoming power voltage too high.

The washer stops and beeps 11 times when the incoming power voltage is too high; the rest of the checks match code EB1. You won't be able to start the diagnostic test until you restore incoming power with the right frequency and voltage to the washer. Unplug the laundry center and have your local electricity provider check the power supply frequency and voltage. If the power supply is okay and the code doesn't clear, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: washer electronic control board.

• The supply is outside what the washer accepts on the incoming voltage, which is too high: The laundry center stops and beeps 11 times, and EB2 will not clear until the supply is right. Unplug the washer and have your local electricity provider check the power supply frequency and voltage for EB2
• A loose neutral or an overloaded shared circuit pushing the voltage up: Lights on the same circuit brighten or flicker when large loads switch on and off. Ask an electrician or the provider to check the outlet voltage under load, since only they can find a supply fault

The chart says the provider checks both the power supply frequency and voltage; for EB2 the fault is the incoming voltage, which is too high.

Watch whether lights on the same circuit brighten when other large loads switch off, because a high-voltage reading that follows other loads points to a supply or neutral fault rather than the laundry center.

That is the chart's remedy for EB2 (11 beeps, 2 beeps); the chart also says the diagnostic test will not start until the supply is right, so restore good power first and quote the board against the laundry center's age.

11 beeps, 2 beeps (chart).

Can a high voltage damage the washer? It can shorten the life of the electronics, which is why the control stops the washer and beeps instead of running on a supply that is too high.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code eb3-11-beeps-3-beeps-incoming-power-voltage-too-low

Listed as incoming power voltage too low.

The washer stops and beeps 11 times when the incoming power voltage is too low; the rest of the checks match code EB1. You won't be able to start the diagnostic test until you restore incoming power with the right frequency and voltage to the washer. Unplug the laundry center and have your local electricity provider check the power supply frequency and voltage. If the power supply is okay and the code doesn't clear, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: washer electronic control board.

• The supply is outside what the washer accepts on the incoming voltage, which is too low: The laundry center stops and beeps 11 times, and EB3 will not clear until the supply is right. Unplug the washer and have your local electricity provider check the power supply frequency and voltage for EB3
• An undersized or overloaded circuit, or a long extension cord, dropping the voltage: Lights dim when the laundry center starts and the washer stops during the fill or spin. Plug the laundry center directly into the wall outlet with no extension cord and see whether the code stays away

The chart says the provider checks both the power supply frequency and voltage; for EB3 the fault is the incoming voltage, which is too low.

Check that the laundry center is plugged straight into the wall outlet, because an extension cord or a shared circuit can drop the voltage below what the control accepts.

Can an extension cord cause a low-voltage code? Yes. A long or thin cord drops the voltage, so the washer should always be plugged directly into a properly rated wall outlet.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code ebe-11-beeps-14-motor-control-board-failure

Listed as motor control board failure.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the motor control board and the motor and gear case. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If you find no wiring problems, replace the motor control board. If the problem continues, replace the washer electronic control board. Parts named: motor control board, washer electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged harness between the motor control board and the motor and gear case: The laundry center flashes 11 beeps, 14 beeps and the basket does not respond. Unplug it and check the harness between the motor control board and the motor and gear case
• The motor control board has failed: You find no wiring problems and EBE still returns on every start. The chart says if you find no wiring problems, replace the motor control board

Reconnect loose wires or replace the harness if it is damaged, checking both connector ends.

The chart's first part for EBE; match the board to your full model number before ordering it.

The chart's last step, taken only after the motor control board has already been replaced and the code continues.

11 beeps, 14 beeps (chart).

Motor control board and washer electronic control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver for the front panel and a flashlight for the connectors.

How is EBE different from E5F? E5F checks the harness to the washer control board first; EBE checks the harness to the motor and gear case first.

Replace the motor control board first and only then the control board, as the chart orders them

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code ebf-11-beeps-15-washer-electronic-control-board

Listed as washer electronic control board failure.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the washer electronic control board and the motor control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If you find no wiring problems, replace the washer electronic control board. Parts named: washer electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged harness between the washer electronic control board and the motor control board: The laundry center flashes 11 beeps, 15 beeps and the boards do not communicate. Unplug it and check both ends of the harness, which the chart puts first
• The washer electronic control board has failed: You find no wiring problems and EBF still returns on every start. The chart says if you find no wiring problems, replace the washer electronic control board
• A power disturbance that damaged the control: The code first appeared after a storm, outage or tripped breaker. Note the date against any outage and try another outlet

or replace the harness if it is damaged, checking both connector ends for burnt or bent pins.

The chart replaces the board only when you find none; a reseated connector costs nothing.

That is the chart's remedy for EBF; quote it against the laundry center's age first.

11 beeps, 15 beeps (chart).

Is the motor board replaced for EBF? No; the chart stops at the control board.

How is EBF different from EBE? EBE is a motor control board failure; EBF is a control board failure.

The washer electronic control board is the chart's only part, so get it quoted before ordering

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code ec7-12-beeps-7-beeps-washer-mode-actuator-sensor-failure

Listed as washer mode actuator sensor failure.

Unplug the laundry center and replace the washer mode actuator if damaged. If you see no damage, check the wire harness connections between the mode actuator and the washer electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If you find no wiring problems, check the resistance of the washer mode actuator using a multimeter. You should measure between 2,800 and 3,100 ohms. Replace the washer mode actuator if resistance is out of that range. Replace the washer electronic control board if mode actuator resistance is okay. Parts named: wire harness, washer mode actuator, washer electronic control board.

• A damaged washer mode actuator or its sensor: The laundry center flashes 12 beeps, 7 beeps and the actuator shows visible damage. Unplug it and look at the actuator; the chart says replace it if damaged
• A loose or damaged harness between the mode actuator and the washer electronic control board: The actuator looks undamaged but the sensor signal is lost. Check both ends of the harness; reconnect loose wires or replace a damaged harness
• A mode actuator whose resistance is out of range: The wiring is sound but the actuator does not read between 2,800 and 3,100 ohms. Measure it with a multimeter; the chart replaces the actuator if the resistance is out of that range
• The washer electronic control board has failed: The actuator reads within range and the code still returns. The chart says replace the washer electronic control board if the mode actuator resistance is okay

The chart says to replace the actuator if it is damaged, before any other check is made on the unit.

If the actuator looks undamaged, check the harness, then read its resistance: the chart expects between 2,800 and 3,100 ohms.

Out of range: replace the mode actuator. In range: replace the washer electronic control board.

Mode actuator 2,800 to 3,100 ohms (chart).

Wire harness, washer mode actuator and washer electronic control board.

What is the mode actuator sensor? The signal that tells the control which mode the actuator is in, so a fault there is treated like an actuator fault.

Replace the actuator only if it is damaged or out of range, then the board, and quote each before ordering

Never measure the actuator with the laundry center plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code ef2-15-beeps-2-beeps-excessive-suds-detected

Listed as excessive suds detected.

The washer electronic control board detected excessive suds during the cycle. The control extends the cycle to remove the excessive suds and then completes the cycle. Use the right amount of high-efficiency (HE) detergent with future loads. Parts named: HE detergent.

• More high-efficiency detergent than the load needs: Suds are visible in the tub and the control extends the cycle to clear them. Compare the amount used with the HE marking on the cap; the chart says to use the right amount
• Standard detergent instead of high-efficiency: Heavy suds appear even when only a small measured dose was used. Check the label for an HE mark; ordinary detergent foams far more in an efficient washer
• Leftover suds or cleaner residue from a previous load: The code shows at the start of the next wash. Run a rinse with no detergent and look inside the tub for foam

The chart says the washer electronic control board detected excessive suds, extends the cycle to remove them and then completes it, so this code does not stop the wash.

Only water, so the foam thins out; repeat if the tub still holds a layer of suds.

The chart's instruction; measure to the HE marking on the cap and use less for small loads.

Use the right amount of high-efficiency (HE) detergent.

A measuring cap and towels to catch any suds at the lid.

Do I need to replace anything? No part is listed; the chart's only item is high-efficiency detergent.

Will the cycle finish? Yes, per the chart, the control extends the cycle to clear the suds and then completes it.

Can suds cause a motor code? Yes; remaining water can drag the motor and trigger E55 or E58, which is why suds are the first check for those codes.

No part is listed; if EF2 returns on small loads with the right HE detergent, book service

Stop if suds are coming out of the dispenser or lid

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code ef5-15-beeps-5-beeps-out-of-balance

Listed as out of balance.

Rebalance the load and restart the washer. If the code appears with a balanced load, unload the washer. Run a cycle with no clothes added. If the code appears with the washer empty, unplug the washer and replace the motor and gear case. Parts named: motor and gear case.

• An unbalanced or overloaded load in the basket: EF5 appears in spin and the laundry center thumps or walks across the floor. Rebalance the load and restart the washer, which is the chart's first step
• A failed motor and gear case that cannot hold the basket steady: The code appears with a balanced load and even with the washer empty. Run a cycle with no clothes; the chart replaces the motor and gear case if the code appears with the washer empty
• A laundry center that is not level or is standing on a soft floor: The unit rocks or thumps in spin even with small balanced loads. Check that all four feet are firmly down and the cabinet does not rock when pushed at the corners

Spread the items evenly around the basket and keep the load to about the chart's 20 pound capacity; heavy single items such as a rug cause most out-of-balance codes.

An empty washer that still shows EF5 points to the drive rather than the load, so the empty test cycle is worth running before buying parts.

That is the chart's remedy when the code appears with the washer empty; get the part quoted first because it is a major repair.

Motor and gear case.

A screwdriver or nut driver for the front panel and a flashlight.

Is an out-of-balance load always the cause? Usually, and the chart tries a rebalanced load first. Only a code with an empty washer points to the motor and gear case.

A motor and gear case replacement is a major job, so get it quoted before deciding

Stop and unplug the laundry center if it is shaking hard enough to move or the basket is knocking

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code ef6-15-beeps-6-beeps-washer-electronic-control-board

Listed as washer electronic control board failure.

Unplug the laundry center and replace the washer electronic control board. Parts named: washer electronic control board.

• The washer electronic control board has failed: EF6 appears and the laundry center will not run, with no other fault found. The chart's only instruction is to unplug the laundry center and replace the washer electronic control board
• A power disturbance that damaged the control: The code first appeared after a storm, outage or tripped breaker. Note the date against any outage and try another outlet to rule out a supply fault
• A loose harness connector at the control board: The code is intermittent and changes when the laundry center is moved. Unplug it and reseat the harness connectors before buying a board, even though the chart lists none

The chart's first step; the board carries line voltage, so no work is done with it plugged in.

The chart lists no wiring check for EF6, but a loose connector is free to rule out and can mimic a failed board.

That is the chart's remedy; quote the part against the laundry center's age before buying it.

A screwdriver or nut driver for the panel and a flashlight for the connectors.

Is there a reset for EF6? The chart lists none; it goes straight to replacing the board.

Can a surge cause it? It can damage a control board, which is why a recent storm or outage is worth noting.

The washer electronic control board is a costly part, so get it quoted before ordering

Never open the control housing with the laundry center plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code eh1-17-beeps-1-beep-incoming-power-frequency-out-of-limits

Listed as incoming power frequency out of limits.

The washer stops and beeps 17 times when incoming power frequency isn't 60 Hz or incoming power voltage isn't correct. You won't be able to start the diagnostic test until you restore incoming power with the right frequency and voltage to the washer. Unplug the laundry center and have your local electricity provider check the power supply frequency and voltage. If the power supply is okay and the code doesn't clear, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: washer electronic control board.

• The supply is outside what the washer accepts on the incoming frequency, which must be 60 Hz: The laundry center stops and beeps 17 times, and EH1 will not clear until the supply is right. Unplug the washer and have your local electricity provider check the power supply frequency and voltage for EH1
• A generator or inverter feeding the outlet that does not hold 60 Hz: The code appears only when the house is on a generator, inverter or other backup supply. Run the laundry center from the utility supply and see whether the code stays away

The chart says the provider checks both the power supply frequency and voltage; for EH1 the fault is the incoming frequency, which must be 60 Hz.

Note whether a generator or backup supply was running when the code appeared, because a source that drifts off 60 Hz is the commonest reason for a frequency code and costs nothing to rule out.

That is the chart's remedy for EH1 (17 beeps, 1 beep); the chart also says the diagnostic test will not start until the supply is right, so restore good power first and quote the board against the laundry center's age.

17 beeps, 1 beep (chart).

Can a generator cause a frequency code? Yes. A generator or inverter that does not hold 60 Hz can make the washer stop and beep, and running from the utility supply is the quickest test.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code eh2-17-beeps-2-beeps-incoming-power-voltage-too-high

Listed as incoming power voltage too high.

The washer stops and beeps 17 times when the incoming power voltage is too high; the rest of the checks match code EH1. You won't be able to start the diagnostic test until you restore incoming power with the right frequency and voltage to the washer. Unplug the laundry center and have your local electricity provider check the power supply frequency and voltage. If the power supply is okay and the code doesn't clear, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: washer electronic control board.

• The supply is outside what the washer accepts on the incoming voltage, which is too high: The laundry center stops and beeps 17 times, and EH2 will not clear until the supply is right. Unplug the washer and have your local electricity provider check the power supply frequency and voltage for EH2
• A loose neutral or an overloaded shared circuit pushing the voltage up: Lights on the same circuit brighten or flicker when large loads switch on and off. Ask an electrician or the provider to check the outlet voltage under load, since only they can find a supply fault

The chart says the provider checks both the power supply frequency and voltage; for EH2 the fault is the incoming voltage, which is too high.

Watch whether lights on the same circuit brighten when other large loads switch off, because a high-voltage reading that follows other loads points to a supply or neutral fault rather than the laundry center.

Can a high voltage damage the washer? It can shorten the life of the electronics, which is why the control stops the washer and beeps instead of running on a supply that is too high.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code eh3-17-beeps-3-beeps-incoming-power-voltage-too-low

Listed as incoming power voltage too low.

The washer stops and beeps 17 times when the incoming power voltage is too low; the rest of the checks match code EH1. You won't be able to start the diagnostic test until you restore incoming power with the right frequency and voltage to the washer. Unplug the laundry center and have your local electricity provider check the power supply frequency and voltage. If the power supply is okay and the code doesn't clear, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: washer electronic control board.

• The supply is outside what the washer accepts on the incoming voltage, which is too low: The laundry center stops and beeps 17 times, and EH3 will not clear until the supply is right. Unplug the washer and have your local electricity provider check the power supply frequency and voltage for EH3
• An undersized or overloaded circuit, or a long extension cord, dropping the voltage: Lights dim when the laundry center starts and the washer stops during the fill or spin. Plug the laundry center directly into the wall outlet with no extension cord and see whether the code stays away

The chart says the provider checks both the power supply frequency and voltage; for EH3 the fault is the incoming voltage, which is too low.

Check that the laundry center is plugged straight into the wall outlet, because an extension cord or a shared circuit can drop the voltage below what the control accepts.

Can an extension cord cause a low-voltage code? Yes. A long or thin cord drops the voltage, so the washer should always be plugged directly into a properly rated wall outlet.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code fabric-softener-and-blocked-washer-motor

Listed as blocked washer motor.

Unplug the laundry center and see if you can spin the agitator by hand. If not, remove the motor belt and attempt to spin the motor with the belt removed. If the motor won't spin, replace it. If the motor spins with the belt removed, check the drive components. Parts named: drive motor, Drive components.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code fabric-softener-and-lid-switch-not-opening

Listed as lid switch not opening.

The electronic control board doesn't detect the lid switch opening for 3 consecutive cycles and assumes that the lid switch is broken. Replace the lid switch if damaged. If the lid switch is okay, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: lid switch, Electronic control board.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code fabric-softener-and-loose-washer-belt

Listed as loose washer belt.

Unplug the laundry center and check the washer drive belt. Replace the belt if it's damaged or broken. Parts named: drive belt.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code fabric-softener-and-not-draining

Listed as not draining.

Check the house drain and the washer drain hose for clogs.

If the drain path is clear, replace the drain pump if it won't pump water when activated. Replace the electronic control board if it doesn't activate the drain pump. Parts named: drain pump, Washer control board.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code fabric-softener-can-t-detect-water-temperature

Listed as can't detect water temperature.

The thermistor detects water temperature for the electronic control board. Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the thermistor and the electronic control board. Replace the thermistor if the wiring is okay. If the problem persists, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: thermistor, Wire harness, Electronic control board.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code fabric-softener-motor-speed-not-detected

Listed as motor speed not detected.

The electronic control board uses a speed sensor mounted on the motor to detect motor speed. Unplug the laundry center and check that the wire harness for the speed sensor is connected. If the wire harness is okay, the problem could be a defective speed sensor, failed drive motor or defective electronic control board. Parts named: speed sensor, Washer drive motor, Electronic control board, Wire harness.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code fabric-softener-spin-no-water-fill

Listed as no water fill.

Make sure that the water supply faucets behind the washer are fully open.

Check the fill hoses for kinks. If the water supply is okay, the problem could be a defective water inlet valve or the water-level pressure switch, or a wire harness failure. Parts named: water inlet valve , Water level pressure switch, Wire harness.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code fabric-softener-wash-water-overflow

Listed as water overflow.

Unplug the laundry center. If the washer continues filling, replace the water inlet valve. If the washer stops filling, replace the electronic control board because it's activating the inlet valve incorrectly. If the washer isn't overfilling, the water-level pressure switch or the electronic control board could be defective because it isn't detecting the actual water level in the washer. Parts named: water inlet valve, Water level pressure switch, Electronic control board.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E1

Listed as not filling.

If the E1 error code appears, make sure the water supply faucets behind the washer are fully open. Check the water fill lines for kinks or freezing in the winter. Check the inlet screens on the inlet water valves and replace the valves if the screens are clogged. The inlet screens shouldn't be cleaned because removing them from the valve body can let debris into the inlet water valves and cause leaks when re-attached. If the screens are clear, unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the electronic control board and the water valve assembly.

and repair any broken wires. If the wire are okay, test the resistance through the inlet water valve solenoid coils using a multimeter. The meter should measure between 900 and 1,320 ohms through each solenoid coil. Replace the inlet water valve assembly if either coil resistance is out of that resistance range. If the washer tub fills with water when the E1 error code appears, then a disconnected or broken air hose might be preventing the water level sensor from detecting water level correctly. Check the air hose connections on the bottom of the washer tub and the water level sensor and reconnect the hose if disconnected.

Replace the air hose if it's cracked or broken. If the air hose is okay, you'll likely need to replace the water level sensor. If the problem continues after replacing the water level sensor, you'll likely need to replace the electronic control board because the control board isn't detecting water level sensor signals correctly. Parts named: inlet water valve assembly, water level sensor air hose, water level sensor, electronic control board.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E2

Listed as not draining.

If the E2 error code appears, check the house's washer drain, drain pump and the washer's drain hose for clogs and clear any clogs found. If the drain pump buzzes in the drain mode, then replace the drain pump because the pump is running but not draining water. If the pump doesn't run in the drain mode, unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the drain pump and the electronic control board. and repair any broken wires. If the wiring is okay, check resistance through the drain pump motor using a multimeter.

The meter should measure between 14 and 18 ohms through the drain pump motor. Replace the drain pump if motor resistance is outside that range. If the drain pump is okay, you'll likely need to replace the electronic control board because it isn't sending electric current to the drain pump. Parts named: drain pump, electronic control board.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E3

Listed as unbalanced load.

The E3 error code appears if a tub switch inside the washer cabinet detects the tub banging against the cabinet sides because of an unbalanced load. Redistribute the unbalanced load. If the tub bangs against the cabinet sides when the load is balanced or the tub is empty, then a broken damper assembly is likely allowing too much washer tub movement. Unplug the laundry center and check the damper assemblies that suspend the tub in the washer cabinet. Replace any damaged or broken damper assemblies. If the tub isn't banging against the cabinet sides when the E3 error code appears, then a broken tub switch or a wiring failure could be causing the code.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wiring connections between the tub switch and the electronic control board. and repair any broken wires. If the tub switch wires are okay, check continuity through the switch using a multimeter. The meter should measure near 0 ohms of resistance through the tub switch when the switch lever isn't pushed in. If the meter measures infinite resistance through the tub switch with the lever extended outward, replace the tub switch. Parts named: damper assembly, tub switch.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E4

Listed as lid is open or the tub switch detected an unbalanced load.

The E4 error code will appear if you open the lid or if the lid switch detects the lid is open when starting the spin cycle. The code will also appear if the tub switch detects an unbalanced load. If the lid is open, close the washer lid. If the lid is shut, check if the load has shifted to one side of the spin basket and redistribute the load if needed. If the code appears when the lid is shut and the load is balanced, unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the electronic control board and the lid lock assembly.

and repair any broken wires. If the wires are okay, check for continuity through the lid switch circuit by measuring resistance through the black wires connected to CN7 pins 2 and 3 on the electronic control board. With the lid closed, the multimeter should measure near 0 ohms of resistance through that circuit. Replace the lid lock assembly if the meter measures infinite resistance through that circuit. Parts named: lid lock assembly.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E5 and EP

Listed as electronic control board failure.

Unplug the laundry center for 1 minute to reset the electronic control board if either an E5 or EP error code appears. If the code remains after restoring power, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code EA

Listed as water level sensor failure or washer is overfilling.

The EA error code appears when the electronic control board detects an errant or overflow signal from the water level sensor. If the error code appears when you try to start a cycle and the washer doesn't fill with water, unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the electronic control board and the water level sensor. If the wiring connections are tight and wires show no obvious signs of damage, replace the water level sensor because the electronic control board is indicating the sensor has failed.

If the error code continues after replacing the water level sensor, replace the electronic control board because it isn't detecting the water level sensor signal correctly. If the washer fills and then the EA error code appears, the electronic control board likely detected an overflow signal from the water level sensor. When the control board detects this signal, the control stops the washer and runs the drain pump until water drains to 9.75-inches from the bottom of the spin basket or 3.5 holes from the top of the basket. The drain pump then stops and the lid remains locked.

Unplug the laundry center and check to see if the tub continues to fill with water. If it does, shut off the water supply and replace the water inlet valve assembly because an inlet valve is stuck open. If the washer tub doesn't continue to fill with water, replace the water level sensor because it has likely failed. If the problem continues after replacing the water level sensor, replace the electronic control board because the control board isn't detecting water level sensor signals correctly. Parts named: water level sensor , inlet water valve assembly, electronic control board.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code EC

Listed as drive motor speed not detected.

Check the wire harness connections between the electronic control board and the washer drive motor if you see the EC error code.

and repair any broken wires. If the wires are okay, you may need to replace the drive motor. If the problem continues after replacing the drive motor, replace the electronic control board because the control board isn't detecting motor speed. Parts named: washer drive motor, electronic control board.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code EL

Listed as lid lock failure.

If the EL error code appears, unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the lid lock assembly and the electronic control board. Reconnect any loose wire and repair any broken wires. If the wires are okay, replace the lid lock assembly. Parts named: lid lock assembly.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E11

Listed as fill time too long.

Make sure that the water supply faucets behind the washer are fully open.

Check for frozen fill lines in the winter. Unplug the washer and disconnect the fill hoses from the back of the washer. Check for proper water flow through the fill hoses. If water flow is inadequate, have a plumber repair the water supply to the faucets. If water flows okay, check the inlet screens on the water inlet valve assembly. If the screens are clogged, replace the water inlet valve assembly rather than cleaning the screens (cleaning could allow debris to enter the valves, resulting in the valves sticking open and causing flooding).

Check the drain hose for proper installation. An improperly installed drain hose causes fill water to siphon out through the washer drain. Also, check the drain pump for debris because items such as paper clips and coins can prevent the washer from draining properly and allow fill water to siphon out through the washer drain. If these suggestions don't solve the problem, the inlet water valve assembly probably needs to be replaced. Parts named: water inlet valve assembly.

• The supply faucets are not fully open, or a fill line is frozen or kinked: E11 appears when the tub takes too long to fill, and the fill sounds weak or stops early. Open both faucets fully and, in winter, check the lines for ice; the chart names both first
• Weak water flow through the fill hoses, a fault at the house supply: Water trickles from a disconnected hose even with the faucet fully open. Unplug the washer, disconnect the fill hoses and run water into a bucket to judge the flow
• Clogged screens on the water inlet valve assembly: Flow through the hoses is good but the washer still fills slowly. Look at the inlet screens; the chart replaces the valve assembly rather than cleaning clogged screens
• Fill water siphoning straight out through the drain: The tub fills, then loses water, and the drain hose sits too far down the standpipe or the pump is fouled. Check the drain hose installation and clear the drain pump of coins and paper clips

Pull the washer forward a little to see behind it, and keep towels ready for drips at the hose connections; frozen lines are only a winter cause.

Point each hose into a bucket and open the faucet. If the flow is weak, the chart says a plumber should repair the supply, because the washer is not at fault.

The chart replaces the water inlet valve assembly if the screens are clogged rather than cleaning them, because loosened debris can leave the valves stuck open and flooding. Then fix a badly installed drain hose and clear coins and paper clips from the pump.

Water inlet valve assembly.

Towels and a bucket for hose water, and a screwdriver or nut driver if you go on to the valve.

Why does the chart say to replace the inlet valve instead of cleaning its screens? It warns that cleaning could let debris into the valves, which could then stick open and cause flooding. So a clogged-screen assembly is replaced, not cleaned.

Can the drain make the washer fill too slowly? Yes. An improperly installed drain hose, or a drain pump fouled with paper clips or coins, lets fill water siphon out through the drain, so the tub never reaches its level in time.

What is the only part the chart lists for E11? The water inlet valve assembly, and only after the faucets, hoses, screens and drain have all been checked.

Is E11 related to a dryer code of the same name? The Sears chart for the Kenmore 417 dryer uses E11 for a control board fault. On this washer page E11 always means the fill took too long.

If the house supply flow is poor, the chart says to have a plumber repair the supply to the faucets rather than working on the washer

Stop and shut the faucets if a hose connection leaks or the tub is filling past its normal level

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E13

Listed as water leak in the tub or air leak in the water level pressure sensor air hose.

Drain the water out of the washer. Unplug the washer and check the outer tub for cracks or leaks such as water dripping from the bottom of the washer tub or a hose. Replace the tub if leaking. If you find no water leaks, check the water level pressure sensor air hose for air leaks. Replace the air hose if it leaks. If the hose doesn't leak, replace the water level pressure sensor because it's not detecting the water level in the washer. Parts named: outer wash tub, water level pressure sensor air hose, water level pressure sensor.

• A leak in the outer wash tub: Water drips from the bottom of the tub or from a hose under the washer. Drain the washer, unplug it and look for cracks or drips at the tub and hoses; the chart replaces a leaking tub
• An air leak in the water level pressure sensor air hose: There is no visible water leak but the level reading is unreliable. Check the air hose for splits or loose ends; the chart replaces a leaking air hose
• The water level pressure sensor is not detecting the level: The tub and air hose are sound and E13 returns. The chart replaces the sensor because it is not detecting the water level in the washer

The chart starts by emptying the tub so you can inspect it safely; use towels and a shallow pan for what comes out.

Look at the bottom of the tub and along each hose with a flashlight. The chart replaces the tub if it is leaking.

If you find no water leak, inspect the air hose for splits and replace it if it leaks; if the hose is sound, the chart replaces the water level pressure sensor.

Outer wash tub, water level pressure sensor air hose and water level pressure sensor.

Towels, a shallow pan and a flashlight, plus a screwdriver or nut driver for the cabinet panel.

What is the water level pressure sensor air hose? A small hose that carries air pressure from the tub to the sensor so the control can tell how full the tub is. A leak in it can cause a false level reading.

Can I tell an air leak from a water leak? A water leak leaves drips or a wet floor; an air leak leaves nothing to see, so the chart checks the tub first and the air hose second.

A leaking outer tub is a major repair; get it quoted against the washer's age before deciding to replace it

Stop and shut off the water if water is reaching the floor or wiring

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E21

Listed as drains slowly.

Check your house's washer drain and the washer's drain hose for clogs and clear any clogs found.

Unplug the washer and check the drain pump for a clog. If the drain path is clear, the drain pump usually needs replacing. Parts named: drain pump.

• A clog in the house drain or the washer's drain hose: The tub empties slowly and E21 appears at the end of the drain step. Check the house washer drain and the drain hose for clogs and clear them, as the chart says first
• A clog in the drain pump: The pump runs but water leaves slowly, with coins, lint or small items in the pump. Unplug the washer and check the drain pump for a clog; the chart lists this next
• A drain pump that is worn or failing: The drain path is clear and the pump still moves water slowly or not at all. The chart says if the drain path is clear, the drain pump usually needs replacing

Straighten kinks in the hose, look at how far it enters the standpipe and clear any clog you find with the washer unplugged.

Put towels and a shallow pan down first; water in the tub and pump area will run out when the pump is opened. Clear coins, lint and small items.

The chart's remedy once the house drain, hose and pump are confirmed clear; run a drain-and-spin afterwards to confirm.

Drain pump.

Towels, a shallow pan, and a screwdriver or nut driver if the lower panel is screwed on.

Where should I start? With the house drain and the washer's drain hose, because a clog there is the cheapest fix and the chart names it first.

Can a slow drain be blamed on suds? Heavy suds slow draining as well. Check EF2 (too much suds) before replacing the pump if the tub is full of foam.

A slow drain that continues with a clear path means a new drain pump, so get it quoted before ordering

Stop and shut off the washer if wastewater is backing up out of the standpipe onto the floor

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E23 and E24

Listed as drain pump relay failed.

The drain pump relay on the control board failed. Replace the electronic control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• The drain pump relay on the electronic control board has failed: E23 appears and the pump never runs when a drain is called, though it is not jammed. The chart states the relay on the control board failed and the board is replaced
• A loose pump connector that makes the pump look unpowered: The pump does not run and the code is intermittent, changing when the washer is moved. Unplug the washer and check the pump connector is fully seated before condemning the board
• A power surge or outage that damaged the board: The code first appeared after a storm, outage or tripped breaker. Note the date it started against any outage and try another outlet to rule out a supply fault

The chart does not list a wiring check, but a loose connector is free to rule out and mimics a failed relay.

The chart says the drain pump relay on the control board failed; the pump itself is not the fault, so do not replace it for this code.

The pump should start when a drain is called and the tub should empty; if it does, the relay repair worked.

Electronic control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver for the cabinet panel, a flashlight and towels for any water near the pump.

Does E23 mean the drain pump is broken? No. The chart says the relay on the control board that switches the pump has failed, so the remedy is the electronic control board.

The electronic control board is the chart's only remedy and a costly part, so confirm the pump connector first and get a quote before ordering

Never open the control housing with the washer plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E31 or E32

Listed as water level pressure sensor isn't communicating with the electronic control board.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the water level pressure sensor and the control board. If the wiring connections are sound, you'll usually need to replace the water level pressure sensor. Parts named: water level pressure sensor.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the water level pressure sensor and the control board: E31 or E32 appears and the washer cannot read the tub level. Unplug the washer and check both ends of the sensor harness before replacing anything
• The water level pressure sensor has failed: The wiring connections are sound and the code returns on every fill. The chart says you will usually need to replace the water level pressure sensor if the wiring is sound
• Moisture or corrosion at the connector: The code comes and goes and follows a leak or a humid laundry room. Look for green or white corrosion or water tracks on the pins and reseat the connector once dry

Look at both connector ends for bent pins or corrosion, and reconnect anything that has worked loose.

A pinched or chafed wire is replaced with the harness, not repaired, so the sensor signal is reliable.

The chart's remedy for E31 or E32 on the 417 series digital display washer; confirm with a fill and drain.

E31 or E32 on the 417 series digital display model chart.

Water level pressure sensor.

A screwdriver or nut driver, a flashlight and towels.

Do I need to check the air hose? Not for this code; the air hose is part of E13 and E38. E31 and E32 are about the electrical connection to the sensor.

Can moisture cause E31? Yes; corrosion on the connector pins can break the signal and clears when dried and reseated, which is worth trying before buying a sensor.

A replacement sensor should be quoted with the right part number before ordering

Stop and shut the faucets if the tub is filling past its normal level

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E31

Listed as water level pressure sensor isn't communicating with the electronic control board.

This error is only on models with a digital display. Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the water level pressure sensor and the control board. If the wiring connections are sound, the water level pressure sensor usually needs to be replaced. Parts named: water level pressure sensor.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the water level pressure sensor and the control board: E31 appears on a digital-display model and the tub level cannot be read. Unplug the washer and check both ends of the sensor harness, which is the chart's first step
• The water level pressure sensor has failed: The wiring is sound and E31 returns whenever the control tries to read the level. The chart says if the wiring connections are sound, the sensor usually needs replacing
• Moisture or corrosion at the sensor connector: The code is intermittent and follows a leak or a damp laundry room. Look at the connector pins for corrosion or water tracks and dry and reseat the connector

The chart says this error is only on models with a digital display, so a washer without one is looking at a different fault.

Reconnect loose wires and replace a damaged harness; look at the pins for bends or corrosion at both connector ends.

That is the chart's remedy and the only part it lists; run a fill and drain afterwards to confirm the level is read correctly.

Digital-display models only (chart).

A screwdriver or nut driver, a flashlight for the connector and towels for any water.

What does 'isn't communicating' mean for E31? The control is not receiving the level signal from the sensor, either because the wiring is faulty or because the sensor itself has failed.

If the sensor is replaced, get it quoted with the right part number for your series first

Stop if the tub is filling past its normal level while the code is showing

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E35

Listed as water-level pressure sensor detects overfill.

This error is only on models with a digital display. If the washer is actually overfilling, check the inlet water fill valves to see if they are shutting off the inlet water flow properly. If they are defective, replace the water inlet valve assembly. If the washer isn't overfilling, the water-level pressure sensor usually needs to be replaced. Parts named: water-level pressure sensor, Water inlet valve assembly.

• A water inlet valve that is not shutting off and is overfilling the tub: The tub is genuinely overfull and water keeps entering. Unplug the washer: the 417 series chart says if water continues to fill the tub, a valve is not closing
• The water level pressure sensor is reporting an overfill that is not real: The tub is not overfull and E35 still appears. The chart says if the washer did not overfill, the sensor usually needs replacing
• An air hose or air trap problem giving a false high reading: The reading is wrong but there is no overfilled tub and no wiring fault. Check the air hose and trap for a kink or clog, as described for E38, before replacing the sensor

If it is overfilled, unplug the power cord and see whether water continues to fill the tub; this is the chart's test for the inlet valve.

Only a valve that is not closing lets water in with no power applied, so this step separates the valve from the sensor.

The chart replaces it when the washer was not actually overfilling; check the air hose first if you can.

Water level pressure sensor and water inlet valve assembly.

Towels, a bucket and a screwdriver or nut driver.

Is E35 only on digital-display washers? The plain 417 chart says this error is only on models with a digital display; the 417 series chart lists it without that note.

Shut off both supply faucets at once if the tub is filling while the washer is unplugged; the valve assembly then needs replacing

Stop and get help if water is reaching the floor or electrical parts

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E38

Listed as clogged air trap.

Unplug the washer and check the air trap and the water level pressure switch air hose for clogs. Clear any clogs. If the air trap and air hose are clear, the water level pressure sensor usually needs replacing because it's not detecting the change in air pressure as the tub fills. Parts named: water level pressure sensor.

• A clogged air trap: E38 appears while filling and the level reading never changes as the tub fills. Unplug the washer and check the air trap for a clog; the chart says to clear any clogs found
• A clogged or kinked water level pressure switch air hose: The air trap is clear but the pressure signal still does not change. Check the air hose for a kink or blockage and clear it
• The water level pressure sensor is not detecting the air pressure change: The trap and hose are both clear and E38 returns. The chart says the sensor usually needs replacing because it is not detecting the change in air pressure as the tub fills

The air trap is where the sensor's air pressure signal is created; look for lint, soap scum or a blockage and clear it.

Trace the small hose and blow through or straighten it if it is kinked; clear any clog you find.

The chart's last remedy; run a fill and drain afterwards to confirm the level is read correctly.

417 series digital display model chart.

A screwdriver or nut driver, a flashlight and towels.

What is the air trap? A small chamber in the tub that traps air as the tub fills, so the pressure sensor can tell how much water is in the tub through the air hose.

Is E38 only on the 417 series digital display washer? The chart for the 417 series digital display washer lists E38; the plain 417 chart does not.

If the sensor has to be replaced, get it quoted before ordering

Stop and shut the faucets if the tub is filling past its normal level

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E41

Listed as control detects the door open.

Unplug the washer and check the wiring harness connections between the door lock assembly and the electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire connections are okay, the door lock assembly usually needs replacing. Parts named: wire harness, door lock assembly.

• The door is not fully closed or is not latching all the way: E41 appears as a cycle starts, or when the drum begins to turn, and the door looks shut. Close the door firmly and check that nothing, such as a sleeve or a strap, is caught in the seal
• A loose or damaged harness between the door lock assembly and the electronic control board: The door is closed and latched but the control still reads it open, and the code changes when the door is pressed. Unplug the washer and check both ends of the harness; the chart says reconnect loose wires or replace a damaged harness
• The door lock assembly has failed: The wiring is sound and E41 returns every time the control checks the door. The chart says if the wire connections are okay, the door lock assembly usually needs replacing

Look for a sock, strap or a fold of the door seal blocking the latch. A door that does not seat fully is the free fix to rule out first.

The chart's first check. and replace the harness if it is damaged, pinched or has a burnt pin at either end.

That is the chart's remedy for E41; match the assembly to your full model number before ordering, because the lock and switch are one part.

417 series digital display chart.

Door lock assembly and wire harness.

A screwdriver or nut driver for the door assembly and a flashlight for the latch and connectors.

What does E41 mean compared with E47? E41 says the control detects the door open. E47 says it detects an open door lock circuit while in spin mode, which is a specific and more urgent situation.

Can the washer run with E41 showing? No. The control will not run a cycle while it believes the door is open, because the lock is a safety interlock.

A door lock replacement is a chart-listed repair, so book it if you are not comfortable with the door assembly and harness behind it

Never bypass or tape the door switch, because it is the safety interlock that stops the drum with the door open

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E43 and E43, E45, E48 or E4A

Listed as control detects a problem with the door lock circuit.

Unplug the washer and check the wiring harness connections between the door lock assembly and the electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire connections are okay, the door lock assembly usually needs replacing. If you replace the door lock assembly and the problem continues, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: wire harness, door lock assembly, electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the door lock assembly and the electronic control board: E43 appears at the start of a cycle or when the washer tries to lock the door, and the door is closed. Unplug the washer and check both ends of the harness, which the chart puts first
• The door lock assembly has failed: The wiring connections are sound and the code returns whenever the lock is asked to engage. The chart says if the wire connections are okay, the door lock assembly usually needs replacing
• The electronic control board's lock circuit has failed: A new door lock assembly was fitted and the problem continues. The chart says if you replace the door lock assembly and the problem continues, replace the electronic control board

and replace the wire harness if it is damaged; look for bent, burnt or corroded pins at both ends.

That is the chart's remedy for E43 and the most likely fix; match the assembly to your full model number.

The chart's last step, done only after the assembly is replaced, because the board is the costlier part.

E43 on both charts; E45, E48 or E4A listed with it on the 417 series digital display chart.

Wire harness, door lock assembly and electronic control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver, a flashlight and a multimeter if you test harness continuity.

Should I replace the board first? No. The chart replaces the board only if a new door lock assembly does not clear the code.

If a new door lock assembly does not clear the code, the chart's next remedy is the electronic control board, so get it quoted before ordering

Never bypass the door lock circuit to force a cycle to run

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E44, E45 and E46

Listed as control board failure.

Unplug the washer for 5 minutes. Restore power and see if the code returns. If it does, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A momentary control fault that a full power reset clears: E44 shows once, or E45 or E46, and does not return after the washer is restarted. Unplug the washer for 5 minutes, restore power and see whether the code returns, as the chart says
• A power disturbance that upset the control: The code first appeared after a storm, outage or tripped breaker. Note the date against any outage and try another outlet
• The electronic control board has failed: The code returns again after the 5-minute reset and restart. The chart says if the code returns, replace the electronic control board

The chart's first step for E44, E45 and E46; leave it unplugged the full time so the control restarts cleanly.

The chart says to restore power and check; a code that stays away was a one-off.

The chart's remedy for E44; quote the part against the washer's age first, since the board is a costly part.

E44, E45 and E46 on the plain 417 chart.

None for the reset; a screwdriver or nut driver if you replace the board.

Can I keep resetting it? A few resets are fine, but the chart replaces the board if the code returns after the 5-minute reset.

Is this the same as EF6? EF6 uses the same ladder on the 417 series chart, described as a control reset.

If the code returns after the reset the chart's remedy is the board; get it quoted first

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E47

Listed as control detects an open door lock circuit in Spin mode.

Unplug the washer. Check the wiring harness for the door lock assembly. If the wiring harness is sound, the door lock/switch assembly usually needs to be replaced. Parts named: door lock/switch assembly, Wiring harness.

• A loose or damaged wiring harness for the door lock assembly: E47 appears when the drum accelerates to spin and the lock circuit opens for an instant. Unplug the washer and check the harness for the door lock assembly, which is the chart's first step
• The door lock/switch assembly has failed: The harness is sound and E47 returns on every spin. The chart says if the wiring harness is sound, the door lock/switch assembly usually needs to be replaced
• An unbalanced load or vibration opening the lock contact in spin: The code appears only on heavy or lopsided loads and the washer walks across the floor. Rebalance the load and run a spin; a code that stays away points to vibration rather than a failed lock

Reconnect any loose wire and replace a damaged harness; the chart begins here for E47 on the plain 417 washer.

The chart says the assembly usually needs to be replaced; it combines the lock and the switch in one part.

After the repair, run a spin with a small balanced load. A code that stays away confirms the fix and rules out vibration.

Door lock/switch assembly and wiring harness.

A screwdriver or nut driver and a flashlight for the harness.

What does 'open door lock circuit in spin mode' mean? The control found the lock circuit open while the drum was spinning, when the door must stay locked. It stops the spin to protect you.

Which parts does the chart list? The door lock/switch assembly and the wiring harness.

Can vibration cause E47? It can be a factor on lopsided loads, which is why a balanced test spin is worth doing before buying a lock.

If the lock/switch assembly has to be replaced, get it quoted with the right part number before ordering

Stop the cycle and unplug the washer if the drum is turning with the door unlatched, and never bypass the lock

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E48

Listed as control detects a problem with the door lock circuit.

Unplug the washer. Check the wiring harness going to the door lock assembly. If the wiring harness, is sound, the door lock/switch assembly usually needs to be replaced. Parts named: door lock/switch assembly, Wiring harness.

• A loose or damaged wiring harness going to the door lock assembly: E48 appears when the washer tries to lock or hold the door during a cycle. Unplug the washer and check the wiring harness going to the door lock assembly first
• The door lock/switch assembly has failed: The wiring harness is sound and E48 returns on every cycle. The chart says if the wiring harness is sound, the door lock/switch assembly usually needs to be replaced
• A door that is slightly out of alignment and not seating the lock fully: The door looks closed but sits proud of the cabinet or needs a slam to latch. Check that the door closes squarely and the lock engages without force before replacing the lock

The chart's first check for E48. Look at both connector ends for bent or corroded pins and reconnect anything loose.

That is the chart's remedy; it does not list a control board step for E48, unlike E43.

Run a short rinse and watch the door lock hold through the fill and the spin; a code that stays away confirms the fix.

Door lock/switch assembly and wiring harness.

A screwdriver or nut driver and a flashlight for the harness.

Is E48 on the 417 series chart? The 417 series digital display chart lists it together with E43, E45 and E4A.

Can a misaligned door cause E48? It can stop the lock seating fully, so a squarely closing door is worth confirming before buying a lock.

If the lock/switch assembly is needed, get it quoted before ordering

Never tape or jumper the door switch to force a cycle to run

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E52

Listed as bad signal from the drive motor tachometer.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the drive motor and the motor control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. Check the resistance through the tachometer on the drive motor using a multimeter. If you don't measure between 105 and 130 ohms, the tachometer is defective and you'll need to replace the drive motor. The tachometer is built into the drive motor and can't be replaced separately. If tachometer resistance is okay, replace the motor control board. Parts named: wire harness, drive motor, motor control board.

• A loose or damaged harness between the drive motor and the motor control board: E52 appears as the drum tries to start, with a bad speed signal reaching the board. Unplug the washer and check the harness between the drive motor and the motor control board, which the chart puts first
• The tachometer built into the drive motor has failed: The wiring is fine, and the tachometer reads outside the range the chart gives. Measure across the tachometer with a multimeter: the chart says anything outside 105 to 130 ohms means a defective tachometer and a new drive motor
• The motor control board is not reading a good tachometer signal: The tachometer reads inside 105 to 130 ohms and E52 still returns. The chart says if the tachometer resistance is okay, replace the motor control board

and replace the harness if it is damaged; look for chafed insulation where it passes the tub.

With a multimeter set to ohms, the chart says you should read between 105 and 130 ohms. Outside that range the tachometer is defective and the whole drive motor is replaced.

The chart's last remedy for E52; there is a PartsDirect how-to for replacing a motor control board on a front-load washer.

Tachometer 105 to 130 ohms (chart).

Wire harness, drive motor and motor control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver for the cabinet panels, a flashlight, and a multimeter for the tachometer and winding readings.

What resistance should the tachometer read? Between 105 and 130 ohms, per the chart. A reading outside that range means the tachometer is defective.

Can I replace the tachometer alone? No. The chart says it is built into the drive motor and cannot be replaced separately, so the drive motor is replaced.

The tachometer cannot be replaced on its own, so a bad reading means a new drive motor, which is a quoted job

Never measure or disconnect the motor harness with the washer plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E53

Listed as low voltage to the motor control board.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness between the electronic control board and motor control board. or replace the harness if damaged. If the wire harness is okay, the electronic control board usually needs replacing. Parts named: wire harness, electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the electronic control board and the motor control board: E53 appears when the motor is first called, with the drum staying still. Unplug the washer and check the harness between the two boards, which the chart names first
• A poor connection that drops the supply voltage before it reaches the motor board: The code is intermittent and changes when the wiring is moved. Reseat both connector ends and look for burnt or corroded pins before replacing anything
• The electronic control board's supply to the motor board has failed: The harness is sound and E53 returns on every start. The chart says if the wire harness is okay, the electronic control board usually needs replacing

or replace the harness if it is damaged, checking both connectors for burnt pins.

A poor connection is the cheap fix; run a short cycle and see whether the code stays away.

That is the chart's remedy for E53 on the 417 series washer; note it replaces the electronic board, not the motor board.

Wire harness and electronic control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver for the cabinet panels and a flashlight for the connectors.

What does 'low voltage to the motor control board' mean? The motor board is not receiving the supply it needs from the main electronic control board, so it cannot drive the motor.

Is E53 a motor fault? No. The chart's ladder is about the wiring and the main electronic control board, not the drive motor.

The chart's last remedy is the electronic control board, a costly part, so quote it before ordering

Never work on the harness with the washer plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E54

Listed as drive motor over speed.

Unplug the washer and check the resistance through the tachometer on the drive motor using a multimeter. If you don't measure between 105 and 130 ohms, replace the drive motor because the tachometer is defective. The tachometer is built into the drive motor and can't be replaced separately. If tachometer resistance is okay, replace the motor control board. Parts named: drive motor, motor control board.

• The tachometer in the drive motor is reporting a false or unstable speed: E54 appears once the drum is turning, and the control believes it is running too fast. Measure across the tachometer with a multimeter and compare with the 105 to 130 ohm range in the chart
• The drive motor itself has failed: The tachometer reads outside the 105 to 130 ohm range when measured. The chart says a reading outside that range means a defective tachometer, and the drive motor is replaced
• The motor control board is misreading a good tachometer: The tachometer reads inside the range and E54 still returns. The chart says if the tachometer resistance is okay, replace the motor control board

The chart goes straight to the meter for E54: set it to ohms and read the tachometer; healthy is between 105 and 130 ohms.

The chart says the tachometer is built in and cannot be replaced separately, so the whole motor is replaced.

The chart's second remedy; there is a PartsDirect how-to for replacing a motor control board on a front-load washer.

Tachometer 105 to 130 ohms (chart).

Drive motor and motor control board.

What does 'over speed' mean? The control believes the drive motor is running faster than commanded. The chart traces it to the tachometer signal first.

What is the healthy tachometer reading? A good tachometer reads 105 to 130 ohms on a meter.

A bad tachometer means a new drive motor, which is a quoted job because the tachometer cannot be bought separately

Never disconnect or measure the motor with the washer plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E55 (417 series digital display)

Listed as drive motor under speed.

Unplug the washer and remove the drive belt. Spin the motor pulley. If it doesn't spin freely, replace the drive motor. If the motor spins freely, rotate the large drive pulley on the back of the washer tub to check the spin bearing. If the pulley doesn't spin freely, you'll usually need to replace the outer tub and spin basket because the spin bearing failed. If the motor pulley and drive pulley both spin freely, then you could have a bad motor windings or a defective motor control board. Parts named: drive motor, outer tub, spin basket, motor control board.

• A drive motor that does not spin freely and cannot reach speed: E55 appears as the drum tries to accelerate and never reaches the commanded speed. Remove the drive belt with the washer unplugged and spin the motor pulley by hand
• A failed spin bearing that holds the drum back: The motor pulley is free but the large drive pulley on the back of the tub does not spin freely. Rotate the large drive pulley; the chart says a stiff pulley means the spin bearing failed and the outer tub and spin basket are replaced
• Bad motor windings or a defective motor control board: The motor pulley and the drive pulley both spin freely and the code still returns. The chart says with both pulleys free, the fault is the motor windings or the motor control board

Spin the motor pulley by hand; the 417 series chart replaces the drive motor if it does not spin freely.

A pulley that is stiff or rough points to the spin bearing; the chart then replaces the outer tub and spin basket.

The chart's last case; measure the windings if you can, and there is a PartsDirect how-to for the motor control board.

Drive motor, outer tub, spin basket and motor control board.

What does 'under speed' mean? The drive motor is turning slower than the control commands. Drag from the motor or the bearing is the chart's first suspicion.

How is this E55 different from the plain 417 E55? The plain 417 chart calls E55 motor overheating; the 417 series chart calls it drive motor under speed, and its ladder ends at windings or the motor control board.

Is there a how-to for the board? PartsDirect lists one for replacing a motor control board on a front-load washer.

A failed spin bearing means a new outer tub and spin basket, a major job to quote against the washer's age

Never work on the belt or pulleys with the washer plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E55 (417)

Listed as motor overheating.

Unplug the washer and remove the drive belt. Spin the motor pulley. If it doesn't spin freely, replace, the drive motor. If the motor spins freely, rotate the large drive pulley on the back of the washer tub to check the spin bearing. If the pulley doesn't spin freely, the outer tub and spin basket usually need to be replaced because a spin bearing failed. If the spin bearing is sound, check the resistance of the motor windings for a reading between 4 and 6 ohms. If the motor has failed, replace it. If the motor is sound, the speed control board usually needs to be replaced. Parts named: drive motor, Outer wash tub, Spin, basket, Speed control board.

• A drive motor that drags because it does not spin freely: E55 appears after the motor has been working hard, often on heavy loads, and the motor housing is hot. Remove the drive belt with the washer unplugged and spin the motor pulley; the chart replaces the motor if it does not spin freely
• A failed spin bearing making the drum hard to turn, so the motor overheats: The motor pulley spins freely but the large drive pulley on the back of the tub is stiff or rough. Rotate the large drive pulley by hand; the chart says a pulley that does not spin freely means a failed spin bearing and a new outer tub and spin basket
• Motor windings that have failed or a speed control board that is not driving the motor correctly: Both pulleys spin freely and the windings read outside the chart's range. Measure the winding resistance; the chart expects 4 to 6 ohms, and replaces the speed control board if the motor is sound

The chart starts here for E55 on the plain 417 washer. A pulley that does not spin freely means the drive motor is replaced.

If it does not spin freely the chart says a spin bearing has failed and the outer tub and spin basket usually need replacing.

The chart expects between 4 and 6 ohms. A failed motor is replaced; if the motor is sound the speed control board usually needs replacing.

Motor windings 4 to 6 ohms (chart).

Drive motor, outer tub and spin basket, and speed control board.

What does E55 mean on the plain 417 washer? The chart lists E55 as motor overheating. The 417 series chart uses the same code for a drive motor under speed.

What winding resistance is normal? Between 4 and 6 ohms, per the chart.

Why does a bad bearing cause overheating? A stiff drum makes the motor work much harder, so it draws more current and heats up.

A failed spin bearing means replacing the outer tub and spin basket, a major job to quote before deciding whether the washer is worth repairing

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E56

Listed as high motor current.

Unplug the washer and remove the drive belt. Spin the motor pulley. If it doesn't spin freely, replace, the drive motor. If the motor spins freely, rotate the large drive pulley on the back of the washer tub to check the spin bearing. If the pulley doesn't spin freely, the outer tub and spin basket usually need to be replaced because a spin bearing failed. If the spin bearing is sound, check the resistance of the motor windings for a reading between 4 and 6 ohms. If the motor has failed, replace it. If the motor is sound, the motor control board usually needs to be replaced. Parts named: drive motor, uuter tub, spin basket, motor control board.

• A drive motor that is dragging and drawing too much current: E56 appears when the motor is under load and the motor housing is hot or the drum is hard to turn. Take the belt off with the washer unplugged and spin the motor pulley by hand
• A failed spin bearing that makes the drum hard to turn: The motor spins freely but the large drive pulley on the back of the tub is stiff. Turn the large drive pulley by hand; a stiff pulley means the chart's failed spin bearing and a new outer tub and spin basket
• Faulty motor windings or a defective motor control board: Both pulleys turn freely and the winding resistance is off. Check the windings against the chart's 4 to 6 ohms; if the motor is sound the motor control board usually needs replacing

If the motor does not spin freely, the chart replaces the drive motor; this is the first and cheapest discriminator.

A stiff or gritty drum pulley points to a failed spin bearing, and the chart replaces the outer tub and spin basket.

The chart expects between 4 and 6 ohms; a failed motor is replaced, and if the motor is sound the ladder ends at the motor control board.

What does 'high motor current' mean? The control senses the motor drawing more current than normal, usually because something is making it work harder.

Where does the E56 ladder end? At the motor control board, unlike E55 on the plain 417 chart, which ends at the speed control board.

What winding reading is normal? A normal winding reads roughly 4 to 6 ohms across its terminals.

A failed bearing is a major repair; get the outer tub and spin basket quoted before deciding

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E57

Listed as high current on the motor control board.

Unplug the washer and remove the drive belt. Spin the motor pulley. If it doesn't spin freely, replace, the drive motor. If the motor spins freely, rotate the large drive pulley on the back of the washer tub to check the spin bearing. If the pulley doesn't spin freely, the outer tub and spin basket usually need to be replaced because a spin bearing failed. If the spin bearing is sound, check the resistance of the motor windings for a reading between 4 and 6 ohms. If the motor has failed, replace it. If the motor is sound, the motor control board usually needs to be replaced. Parts named: drive motor, uuter tub, spin basket, motor control board.

• A drive motor that drags and pushes the current up on the motor control board: E57 appears under load and the board runs hot as the drum struggles. Unplug the washer, remove the belt and spin the motor pulley; the chart replaces a motor that does not spin freely
• A failed spin bearing that forces the motor to work harder: The motor pulley is free but the drum pulley is stiff. Rotate the drum pulley by hand; the chart says a stiff pulley means the spin bearing failed
• Bad motor windings or a defective motor control board: The pulleys turn freely and the winding reading is outside the range. The chart expects 4 to 6 ohms and replaces the motor control board if the motor is sound

A motor that does not spin freely is replaced first, per the chart, before any board is considered.

If it is stiff, the chart says the spin bearing failed and the outer tub and spin basket are replaced.

The chart expects 4 to 6 ohms; with a sound motor, the motor control board usually needs replacing.

How does E57 differ from E56? E56 is high current at the motor; E57 is high current at the motor control board. The chart gives both the same ladder ending at the motor control board.

What parts does the chart list? The drive motor, the outer tub and spin basket and the motor control board.

What is a normal winding reading? Expect the winding to measure somewhere in the 4 to 6 ohm range.

Get the outer tub and spin basket quoted before deciding whether a bearing repair is worthwhile

Never test the belt, pulleys or board with the washer plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E57 or E58

Listed as high current on the drive motor.

Unplug the washer and remove the drive belt. Spin the motor pulley. If it doesn't spin freely, replace the drive motor. If the motor spins freely, rotate the large drive pulley on the back of the washer tub to check the spin bearing. If the pulley doesn't spin freely, you'll usually need to replace the outer tub and spin basket because the spin bearing failed. If the motor pulley and drive pulley both spin freely, then you could have a bad motor windings or a defective motor control board. Parts named: drive motor, outer tub, spin basket, motor control board.

• A drive motor that does not spin freely and draws too much current: E57 or E58 appears under load, and the drum is hard to turn. Unplug the washer, remove the belt and spin the motor pulley by hand
• A failed spin bearing that loads the motor: The motor pulley is free but the large drive pulley behind the tub is stiff. Rotate the large drive pulley; the chart says a stiff pulley means the spin bearing failed
• Bad motor windings or a defective motor control board: Both pulleys turn freely by hand and yet the code still returns. The chart says with both pulleys free, suspect the motor windings or the motor control board

Spin the motor pulley; the 417 series chart replaces the drive motor if it does not spin freely.

The chart says if it does not spin freely you will usually need the outer tub and spin basket because the spin bearing failed.

That is the chart's last case, with a PartsDirect how-to for the motor control board.

Are E57 and E58 the same on the 417 series chart? Yes. The series chart lists E57 or E58 together as high current on the drive motor with one ladder.

Is there a how-to? PartsDirect lists one for replacing a motor control board on a front-load washer.

Does the series chart give a winding reading? It names the windings but gives no figure; the plain 417 chart quotes 4 to 6 ohms for the same check.

Get the outer tub and spin basket quoted before choosing a bearing repair

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E58

Listed as high current on motor phase.

Unplug the washer and remove the drive belt. Spin the motor pulley. If it doesn't spin freely, replace, the drive motor. If the motor spins freely, rotate the large drive pulley on the back of the washer tub to check the spin bearing. If the pulley doesn't spin freely, the outer tub and spin basket usually need to be replaced because a spin bearing failed. If the spin bearing is sound, check the resistance of the motor windings for a reading between 4 and 6 ohms. If the motor has failed, replace it. If the motor is sound, the speed control board usually needs to be replaced. Parts named: drive motor, Outer tub, Spin, basket, Speed control board.

• A drive motor that drags and overloads one phase of its supply: E58 appears under load and the drum is hard to turn by hand. Unplug the washer, remove the belt and spin the motor pulley; a stiff motor is replaced first per the chart
• A failed spin bearing that loads the motor: The motor is free but the drum pulley is rough or stiff. Rotate the large drive pulley by hand; the chart says a stiff pulley means the spin bearing failed
• A failing motor winding or a defective speed control board: Both pulleys are free and the winding resistance is off. The chart expects 4 to 6 ohms and replaces the speed control board if the motor is sound

The chart begins here for E58 on the plain 417 washer; a stiff motor is replaced.

If it does not spin freely the chart says the outer tub and spin basket usually need replacing because the spin bearing failed.

The chart expects 4 to 6 ohms; with a sound motor, the speed control board usually needs replacing, which is where E58 differs from E56 and E57.

Drive motor, outer tub, spin basket and speed control board.

What does 'motor phase' mean? The drive motor is fed through several phases; E58 says the current on one of them is too high.

Where does the E58 ladder end? At the speed control board on the plain 417 chart.

Is this on the 417 series chart? The series chart lists E57 or E58 together as high current on the drive motor.

Get the outer tub and spin basket quoted before choosing a bearing repair

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E59

Listed as no tachometer signal for 3 seconds.

Unplug the washer. Check the resistance through the tachometer on the motor. It should measure, between 105 and 130 ohms. If the tachometer has failed, replace the drive motor. If the tachometer resistance is within that range, remove the drive belt. Spin the motor pulley. If it doesn't spin freely, replace the drive motor. If the motor spins freely, rotate the large drive pulley on the back of the washer tub to check the spin bearing. If the pulley doesn't spin freely then the outer tub and spin basket usually need to be replaced.

If the spin bearing is sound, check the resistance of the motor windings for a reading between 4 and 6 ohms. If the motor has failed, replace it. If the motor is sound, the speed control board usually needs to be replaced. Parts named: drive motor, Outer tub, Spin, basket, Speed control board.

• A tachometer that has failed, giving no speed signal: E59 appears when the drum has been commanded to turn and no speed signal arrives for 3 seconds. Measure across the tachometer with a multimeter; the chart says a reading outside 105 to 130 ohms means replace the drive motor
• A drive motor that will not turn because it is seized or dragging: The tachometer reads inside 105 to 130 ohms but the drum does not move. Remove the belt and spin the motor pulley by hand; the chart replaces the motor if it does not spin freely
• A failed spin bearing, bad windings or a defective motor control board: The motor and tachometer are good and the drum is still stiff or slow. Turn the large drive pulley, then check the windings; the ladder ends at the motor control board

The chart begins with the meter for E59: between 105 and 130 ohms is healthy, and anything outside means the drive motor is replaced.

If the motor pulley does not spin freely, replace the motor; if the drum pulley is stiff, the spin bearing has failed and the outer tub and spin basket are replaced.

The plain 417 chart adds the 4 to 6 ohm winding check before the motor control board; the series chart goes straight to the board.

Tachometer 105 to 130 ohms; motor windings 4 to 6 ohms on the plain 417 chart.

What does 'no tachometer signal for 3 seconds' mean? The control did not receive a speed pulse from the drive motor for 3 seconds after commanding it to run, so it stops and shows E59.

What is a healthy tachometer reading? The tachometer should show a resistance of 105 to 130 ohms.

A bad tachometer means a new drive motor because it is not sold separately; get it quoted

Never measure or work on the motor with the washer plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E5A, E5A or E5C, E5B and E5C

Listed as motor control board is overheated.

The motor control board is defective. Unplug the washer and replace the motor control board. Parts named: motor control board.

• The motor control board has failed and is overheating: E5A appears under load with the board hot, or as soon as the motor is called. The chart states the motor control board is defective and is replaced
• A motor or bearing problem loading the board: The code appears together with other motor or high-current codes. Check the motor and drum by hand as in the E55 to E58 ladder before buying a board
• Blocked airflow or heat trapped around the board: The washer sits in a hot closet or the cabinet is packed with lint. Keep the area clear and let the washer cool before testing again

An overheated board should not be tested hot; wait until it is cool to the touch before checking anything.

If the motor or bearing is dragging, the board overheats trying to drive it; the E55 to E58 ladder covers those checks.

The chart says the board is defective and is replaced; there is a PartsDirect how-to for a front-load washer.

E5A, E5B, E5C (plain 417) or E5A, E5C (417 series).

Motor control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver for the cabinet panel and a flashlight.

Which part does the chart list? The motor control board only.

Should I check the motor first? It is worth doing if other high-current codes have appeared, because a dragging motor can overheat the board.

The chart's only remedy is a new motor control board, so get it quoted before ordering

Stop and unplug the washer if there is a burning smell near the board

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E5D, E5D or E5F, E5E and E5F

Listed as communication failure between the electronic control board and the motor control board.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the main electronic control board and the motor control board. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the motor control board. If the problem continues, replace the main electronic control board. Parts named: motor control board, electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the main electronic control board and the motor control board: E5D appears at start and the motor never responds to the main board. Unplug the washer and check both ends of the harness, which is the chart's first step
• The motor control board has failed: The harness is sound and E5D still returns on every start attempt. The chart says if the harness connections are okay, replace the motor control board
• The main electronic control board has failed: A new motor control board was fitted and the code continues. The chart says if the problem continues, replace the main electronic control board

Reconnect loose wires and replace a damaged harness, checking both connector ends for burnt pins.

The chart's first part; there is a PartsDirect how-to for replacing a motor control board on a front-load washer.

That is the chart's last step, taken only after the motor control board has already been replaced and the code continues.

E5D, E5E, E5F (plain 417) or E5D, E5F (417 series).

Motor control board and electronic control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver and a flashlight for the connectors.

Replace the motor control board first and only then the main board, as the chart orders them; quote each before ordering

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E67

Listed as incorrect voltage supply to the microprocessor on the electronic control board.

Unplug the washer for 5 minutes and then restore power. If the code returns after restoring power, unplug the washer and replace the electronic control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A momentary fault in the microprocessor's supply voltage that a full power reset clears: E67 shows once and does not return after the washer is restarted. Unplug the washer for 5 minutes and restore power; the chart says this first
• A power disturbance that upset the control's internal supply: The code first appeared after a storm, outage or tripped breaker. Note the date against any outage and try another outlet
• The electronic control board's supply circuit has failed: The code returns again after the 5-minute reset and restart. The chart says if the code returns after restoring power, unplug the washer and replace the electronic control board

The control needs the full time to drain its stored charge; do not shorten it.

A code that stays away for a whole cycle was a one-off; a code that returns immediately is a board fault.

The chart's remedy for E67; quote the part against the washer's age first, since the board is a costly part.

Will a different outlet help? It can rule out a supply issue, but it cannot repair a failed board.

If E67 returns after a 5-minute reset the chart's remedy is the board; get it quoted first

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E68

Listed as heater failure.

Unplug the washer. Disconnect the heater and check resistance using a multimeter. The heater should measure approximately 14 ohms of resistance. Replace the heater if you measure infinite resistance. Check for a short in the heater to the metal cabinet. Replace the heater if it's electrically shorted to the metal cabinet. If the heater is okay, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: heater, electronic control board.

• The heater element is open, so no current flows and the water never warms: E68 appears on a hot or warm cycle and the water stays cold. Disconnect the heater with the washer unplugged and measure it; the chart expects about 14 ohms and calls infinite resistance a failed heater
• The heater is electrically shorted to the metal cabinet: The reading looks normal across the terminals but the breaker trips or the washer shocks when touched. Check for a short from each heater terminal to the cabinet metal; the chart replaces a heater that is shorted to the cabinet
• The electronic control board's heater drive has failed: The heater measures about 14 ohms and has no short to the cabinet, yet E68 returns. The chart says if the heater is okay, replace the electronic control board

With a multimeter set to ohms, the chart says the heater should measure approximately 14 ohms. Infinite resistance means the element is broken and the heater is replaced.

Touch one probe to the cabinet metal and the other to each heater terminal in turn. Any continuity means the heater is shorted and must be replaced.

That is the chart's last step for E68, done once the heater is proven good; quote it first.

Heater about 14 ohms; infinite means broken (chart).

Heater and electronic control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver for the cabinet panel, a flashlight, towels for water in the base, and a multimeter for the resistance readings.

What resistance should the heater read? Approximately 14 ohms, per the chart. An infinite reading means the heater is open and needs replacing.

Why check for a short to the cabinet? A heater can read normally across its terminals yet leak current to the metal cabinet, which the chart treats as a failed heater and which is a shock hazard.

A heater that shorts to the cabinet is a shock hazard, so stop using the washer and unplug it until it is repaired

The electronic control board is the chart's last and costliest remedy, so quote it before ordering

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E71

Listed as heater temperature sensor error.

Unplug the washer and measure the resistance of the heater temperature sensor using a multimeter. It should measure around 4,800 ohms. If it doesn't, replace the heater. If it does, check the wiring connections between the heater temperature sensor and the electronic control board. Parts named: heater, wire harness.

• The heater temperature sensor has failed or drifted: E71 appears on a heated cycle, or the water temperature is wrong. Measure the sensor resistance with a multimeter; the chart expects around 4,800 ohms and replaces the heater if it does not
• A loose or damaged connection between the heater temperature sensor and the electronic control board: The sensor reads about 4,800 ohms but E71 still appears, sometimes intermittently. The chart says reconnect any loose wires and replace the wire harness if it is damaged
• Moisture or corrosion at the sensor connector: The code follows a leak or a very damp laundry room. Look at the connector pins for corrosion or water tracks, then dry and reseat it

The chart says it should measure around 4,800 ohms. If it does not, the sensor has failed and the heater is replaced.

If the reading is right, reconnect any loose wires and replace the wire harness if it is damaged.

After the repair, run a warm cycle and confirm the water heats and E71 does not return.

Heater temperature sensor around 4,800 ohms (chart).

Heater and wire harness.

What resistance should the heater temperature sensor read? Around 4,800 ohms, per the chart.

Can the sensor be replaced on its own? The chart lists the heater as the part, so the sensor is replaced with the heater.

The sensor is part of the heater, so a bad reading means a new heater, which is a quoted job

Never measure the sensor with the washer plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E75

Listed as failed water temperature sensor circuit.

This error code is for washers with a digital display only. Unplug the washer. Check the resistance through the temperature sensor circuit. It should be around 50,000 ohms at room temperature. If the sensor is defective, replace the water inlet valve assembly. If the resistance in that circuit's sound, replace the control board. Parts named: water inlet valve assembly, Electronic control board.

• The water temperature sensor circuit has drifted out of range: E75 appears on a digital-display washer and the water temperature reads wrongly. Measure the resistance through the circuit; the chart expects around 50,000 ohms at room temperature
• The water inlet valve assembly that houses the sensor has failed: The reading is off and the sensor is not sold as a separate part. The chart says replace the water inlet valve assembly, because it houses the sensor
• The electronic control board is not reading a good circuit: The circuit reads about 50,000 ohms and E75 still returns. The chart says if the resistance in the circuit is sound, replace the control board

The plain 417 chart says this error code is for washers with a digital display only.

The chart says you should measure around 50,000 ohms at room temperature; if the resistance is off, the water inlet valve assembly is replaced.

The chart says the control board is not detecting the correct resistance, so it becomes the last part to replace.

Digital-display models (both 417 charts).

About 50,000 ohms at room temperature (chart).

Water inlet valve assembly and electronic control board.

What resistance should the water temperature circuit read? Around 50,000 ohms at room temperature, per the chart.

Why is the water inlet valve replaced for E75? The chart says that assembly houses the sensor, and the sensor is not available as a separate component.

A bad reading means replacing the water inlet valve assembly because the sensor is not sold separately; quote it first

Never measure the circuit with the washer plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E91 or E92

Listed as communication problem.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the electronic control board and the user interface board. Reconnect any loose wire connections or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the user interface board. If the problem continues, replace the main electronic control board. Parts named: user interface board, electronic control board, wire harness.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the electronic control board and the user interface board: E91 or E92 appears at power-up and the console may be unresponsive. Unplug the washer and check both ends of the harness, which the chart puts first
• The user interface board has failed: The harness is sound and the code still returns on every power-up. The chart says if the harness connections are okay, replace the user interface board
• The main electronic control board has failed: A new user interface board was fitted and the problem continues. The chart says if the problem continues, replace the main electronic control board

Reconnect loose wires and replace the harness if it is damaged, checking both connector ends for burnt or bent pins.

That is the chart's first part for E91 or E92; match it to your full model number.

The chart's last step for E91 or E92, taken only after the interface board has already been replaced and the code continues.

User interface board, electronic control board and wire harness.

A screwdriver or nut driver to open the console and a flashlight for the connectors.

What does the user interface board do? It reads the buttons and drives the display; E91 or E92 says the main board cannot talk to it.

How is this different from E93? E93, E94 and E97 use the same ladder but are worded as a board failure rather than a communication problem.

Replace the user interface board first and only then the main board, as the chart orders them; quote each before ordering

Never open the console or control housing with the washer plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E93, E94, or E97

Listed as electronic control board or user interface board failure.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the electronic control board and the user interface board. Reconnect any loose wire connections or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the user interface board. If the problem continues, replace the main electronic control board. Parts named: user interface board, electronic control board, wire harness.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the electronic control board and the user interface board: E93, E94 or E97 appears with an unresponsive console or garbled display. Unplug the washer and check both ends of the harness first
• The user interface board has failed: The harness is sound and the code returns on every power-up. The chart says if the harness connections are okay, replace the user interface board
• The main electronic control board has failed: A new user interface board was fitted and the problem continues. The chart says if the problem continues, replace the main electronic control board

Reconnect loose wires and replace the harness if it is damaged, checking both connector ends.

That is the chart's first part for E93, E94 or E97; match the board to your full model number before ordering it.

The chart's last step for E93, E94 or E97, taken only after the interface board has already been replaced and the code continues.

User interface board, electronic control board and wire harness.

A screwdriver or nut driver to open the console and a flashlight for the connectors.

How does this differ from E91 or E92? E91 and E92 are worded as a communication problem; E93, E94 and E97 as a board failure. The remedy ladder is the same.

Should the harness be checked first? Yes, and it costs nothing.

Replace the user interface board first and only then the main board; quote each before ordering

Never open the console or control housing with the washer plugged in

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E95

Listed as electronic control board communication error.

Unplug the washer for 5 minutes and then plug it in. If the code returns, replace the electronic control board., Parts named: electronic control board.

• A momentary communication glitch inside the control that a full power reset clears: E95 shows once and does not return after the washer is restarted. Unplug the washer for 5 minutes and plug it in again, as the chart says
• A power disturbance that upset the control's internal communication: The code first appeared after a storm, outage or tripped breaker. Note the date against any outage and try another outlet
• The electronic control board has failed: The code returns again after the 5-minute reset and restart. The chart says if the code returns, replace the electronic control board

The chart's first step; leave it the full time so the control restarts from a clean state.

A code that stays away was a one-off; one that returns immediately is a board fault.

That is the chart's remedy for E95; quote the part against the washer's age first, since the board is a costly part.

If E95 returns after the reset the chart's remedy is the board; get it quoted first

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E98 or E9F

Listed as motor control communication problem.

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the electronic control board and the motor control board. Reconnect any loose wire connections or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the electronic control board. If the problem continues, replace the motor control board. Parts named: electronic control board, motor control board, wire harness.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the electronic control board and the motor control board: E98 or E9F appears at start, and the motor board does not answer the main board. Unplug the washer and check both ends of the harness first
• The electronic control board has failed: The harness is sound and the code still returns on every start attempt. The chart says if the harness connections are okay, replace the electronic control board
• The motor control board has failed: A new electronic control board was fitted and the problem continues. The chart says if the problem continues, replace the motor control board

Reconnect loose wires or replace the harness if it is damaged, checking both connector ends for burnt or bent pins.

On this code the chart puts the electronic control board first, the reverse of E5D.

The chart's last step, taken only if the code continues; there is a PartsDirect how-to for a front-load washer.

Electronic control board, motor control board and wire harness.

A screwdriver or nut driver and a flashlight for the connectors.

Why is the order the reverse of E5D? The 417 series chart lists the electronic control board first for E98 or E9F and the motor control board first for E5D or E5F.

Is this on the plain 417 chart? No; only the 417 series digital display chart lists E98 or E9F.

Replace the electronic control board first and only then the motor control board, as the chart orders them; quote each first

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code EA1

Listed as incoming power frequency out of limits.

Unplug the washer and have your local electrical power service provider check the power supply frequency. If it's normal and the code doesn't clear, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• The incoming power frequency is outside the range the control accepts: EA1 appears and the washer stops, particularly after an outage or a grid disturbance. Unplug the washer and have your local power provider check the frequency; the chart names this first
• Backup power that does not hold the correct frequency: The code appears only when the house is on a generator or inverter. Run a cycle from utility power and see whether EA1 stays away
• The electronic control board's sensing circuit has failed: The supply frequency is confirmed normal and the code remains. The chart says if it is normal and the code does not clear, replace the electronic control board

The 417 series chart words this the same way as EB1: the provider checks the supply, not the homeowner.

This costs nothing and separates a supply problem from a washer fault, so try it before anyone replaces a part.

That is the chart's remedy for EA1 on the 417 series digital display washer; quote the board against the washer's age first.

EA1 on the 417 series digital display chart (EB1 on the plain 417 chart).

None for the supply check; a screwdriver or nut driver if you replace the board.

Does EA1 mean the washer is broken? Not necessarily; it means the control did not like the incoming supply. The chart only replaces the board after the supply is confirmed normal.

Can I test frequency myself? The chart sends you to the power provider for this check; an ordinary multimeter is not reliable for it.

Only the power provider can verify the frequency; get the board quoted only after they confirm it is normal

Stop and unplug the washer if the breaker trips or lights dim when it runs

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code EA2

Listed as power supply voltage above 130 VAC.

Unplug the washer and check the outlet voltage with a multimeter. If the voltage is high, have an electrician repair the voltage supply problem. If the voltage is normal, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• The outlet voltage is above 130 VAC: EA2 appears at power-up and the supply on this circuit is known to run high. Unplug the washer and check the outlet voltage with a multimeter, as the chart says
• A wiring fault in the house pushing the voltage up: Lights or other loads on the same circuit behave oddly. Have an electrician repair the supply; the chart names this for a high reading
• The electronic control board misreads a normal supply: The outlet reads a normal voltage and yet EA2 still remains on the display. The chart replaces the electronic control board when the voltage is normal

The chart says to check the outlet voltage with a multimeter; use AC volts and keep your fingers off the probes.

The 417 series chart is explicit: a high voltage is repaired by an electrician, not by changing washer parts.

That is the chart's remedy once the outlet has been proven good; quote the board against the washer's age before ordering it.

Above 130 VAC (417 series chart).

A multimeter set to AC volts.

What is the EA2 limit? Above 130 volts AC, per the 417 series digital display chart.

A high supply is an electrician's repair; stop and call one before running the washer

Do not take a line-voltage reading unless you know how to do it safely

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code EA3

Listed as power supply voltage lower than 100 VAC.

Unplug the washer and check the outlet voltage with a multimeter. If the voltage is low, have an electrician repair the voltage supply problem. If the voltage is normal, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• The outlet voltage is below 100 VAC: EA3 appears at power-up or when a load starts and the supply sags. Unplug the washer and check the outlet voltage with a multimeter, as the chart says
• A circuit sagging under load or a poor connection: Lights dim when the washer or another large appliance starts. Have an electrician repair the supply; the chart names this for a low reading
• The electronic control board misreads a normal supply: The outlet reads a normal voltage and yet EA3 still remains on the display. The chart replaces the electronic control board when the voltage is normal

The chart says to check the outlet voltage with a multimeter; use AC volts and read the outlet directly, not through a cord.

The 417 series chart says a low voltage is repaired by an electrician, not by changing washer parts.

That is the chart's remedy once the outlet has been proven good; quote the board against the washer's age before ordering it.

Below 100 VAC (417 series chart).

What is the EA3 limit? Below 100 volts AC on the 417 series digital display chart; the plain 417 chart uses 90 volts for EB3.

Why is the limit different from EB3? The two charts set different thresholds for the same fault, so use the limit on your own washer's chart.

Can a low reading be the washer's fault? Only if the outlet reads normal; the chart replaces the board after the supply is proven good.

A low supply is an electrician's repair; stop and call one before running the washer

Do not use an extension cord to work around a low reading

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code EA5

Listed as main voltage sensing failure.

Have the power company check the frequency and, voltage of the incoming power supply. If correct, replace the electronic control board., Parts named: electronic control board.

• The incoming frequency or voltage is off and the control cannot sense it correctly: EA5 appears with no obvious washer fault and the supply may be unstable. Have the power company check the frequency and voltage of the incoming supply, as the chart says
• A generator or backup supply that does not hold steady power: The code appears only when the house is running on backup power. Run the washer from utility power and see whether EA5 stays away
• The electronic control board's sensing circuit has failed: The supply is confirmed correct and the code remains. The chart says if the supply is correct, replace the electronic control board

The chart wording is direct: the power company checks both, since a household meter cannot verify frequency.

This separates a supply issue from a washer fault at no cost, so do it before replacing any part.

The chart's remedy for EA5 once the incoming power has been confirmed; quote the board against the washer's age first.

What is the main voltage sensing? The control measures the incoming supply so it can protect itself; EA5 says that measurement failed or disagreed with what the supply should be.

Who checks the power? The chart sends you to the power company.

Only the power company can verify the incoming supply; get the board quoted after they confirm it is correct

Stop and unplug the washer if the breaker trips or lights flicker when it runs

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code EAE

Listed as line safe relay sensing failure.

Have the power company check the frequency and, voltage of the incoming power supply. If correct, replace the electronic control board., Parts named: electronic control board.

• The incoming frequency or voltage is off and the safety relay sensing disagrees: EAE appears with no obvious washer fault and the supply may be unstable. Have the power company check the frequency and voltage of the incoming supply, as the chart says
• Backup power that does not hold steady voltage or frequency: The code appears only when the house is on a generator or inverter. Run the washer on utility power and see whether EAE stays away
• The line-safe relay sensing on the electronic control board has failed: The supply is confirmed correct and the code remains. The chart says if the supply is correct, replace the electronic control board

The chart wording is the same as EA5: check both, since a household meter cannot verify frequency.

This separates a supply issue from a relay fault at no cost, so do it before replacing any part.

The chart's remedy for EAE; the line-safe relay sensing is part of the board, so quote the board against the washer's age first.

What is the line safe relay? A relay that isolates the control from the supply if the supply is unsafe; EAE says its sensing failed.

Is EAE the same as EA5? The chart words them the same way: have the power company check, then replace the board if the supply is correct.

Is EAE dangerous? The washer is protecting itself; do not run it repeatedly if the breaker trips.

Only the power company can verify the supply; get the board quoted after they confirm it is correct

Stop and unplug the washer if the breaker trips or you smell burning

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code EB1

Listed as incoming power frequency out of limits.

Unplug the washer. Have your local electrical power service provider check the power supply frequency. If it's normal and the code doesn't clear, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• The incoming power frequency is outside the range the control accepts: EB1 appears at power-up or mid-cycle and the washer stops, often after a grid or generator event. Unplug the washer and have your power provider check the supply frequency, as the chart says
• A generator or inverter feeding the outlet is running off-frequency: The code appears only when the house is on a generator or backup supply. Run the washer from the utility supply and see whether EB1 stays away
• The electronic control board's frequency sensing has failed: The supply frequency is normal and the code does not clear. The chart says if the frequency is normal and the code does not clear, replace the electronic control board

The chart starts with unplugging the washer. A generator that runs off-frequency is a common trigger and is worth ruling out before anyone is called.

The chart says to have the local electrical power service provider check the power supply frequency, because a household multimeter cannot measure it reliably.

The chart's remedy once the supply is confirmed good; quote the board against the washer's age first.

None; this check is done by the power provider, and a screwdriver or nut driver only if you replace the board.

What does 'frequency out of limits' mean for EB1? The control senses the alternating-current frequency of the incoming supply and stops the washer if it falls outside the range it is built for. EB1 is the plain 417 chart's wording; EA1 is the same fault on the 417 series chart.

Can a generator cause EB1? Yes. A generator or inverter that does not hold the correct frequency can trigger it, and running from utility power is the quickest test.

Who checks the frequency? The chart says the local electrical power service provider, not the homeowner.

Only the power provider can check the supply frequency; do not guess with a household meter, and get the board quoted only after they confirm it is normal

Stop and unplug the washer if lights flicker or the breaker trips when it runs

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code EB2

Listed as incoming line voltage is above 130 volts AC.

Unplug the washer. Check the outlet voltage. If the voltage is high, have an electrician repair it. If the voltage is normal, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• The wall outlet is delivering more than 130 volts AC: EB2 appears at power-up and the outlet is on a circuit with a known supply problem. Unplug the washer and check the outlet voltage with a multimeter; the chart says to have an electrician repair a high reading
• A loose neutral or a shared circuit pushing the voltage up: Lights on the same circuit brighten or flicker when large loads switch. Have an electrician check the circuit; a household meter only shows the symptom
• The electronic control board's voltage sensing has failed: The outlet reads a normal voltage and yet EB2 still appears on the display. The chart says if the voltage is normal, replace the electronic control board

Set a multimeter to AC volts and read the outlet. Line voltage is dangerous; if you are not comfortable taking this reading, have an electrician do it.

The chart says to have an electrician repair a high reading, because the fault is in the house wiring rather than the washer.

The chart's remedy when the supply checks out: the board is misreading a normal supply.

Above 130 volts AC at the outlet (chart).

A multimeter set to AC volts, used with care.

What voltage triggers EB2? The chart lists the trigger as incoming line voltage above 130 volts AC.

A high outlet reading is an electrician's job, not a washer repair, so stop and call one before running the washer again

Never test the outlet with the washer plugged in if you are unsure how to use a multimeter safely

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code EB3

Listed as incoming line voltage is below 90 volts AC.

Unplug the washer. Check the outlet voltage. If the voltage is high, have an electrician repair it. If the voltage is normal, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• The wall outlet is delivering less than 90 volts AC: EB3 appears at power-up or when the motor starts and the supply sags. Unplug the washer and check the outlet voltage; the chart says to have an electrician repair a bad supply
• An overloaded or undersized circuit that sags under load: Lights dim when the washer or another large load starts. Have an electrician check the circuit capacity and any loose connections
• The electronic control board's voltage sensing has failed: The outlet reads a normal voltage and yet EB3 still appears on the display. The chart says if the voltage is normal, replace the electronic control board

Read the outlet with a multimeter on AC volts if you can do so safely; otherwise ask an electrician.

The plain 417 chart says an electrician repairs the outlet voltage when it is off, so the washer is not the fault.

The chart's remedy once the outlet supply has been proven good; quote the board against the washer's age first.

Below 90 volts AC at the outlet (plain 417 chart).

What voltage triggers EB3? The chart lists incoming line voltage below 90 volts AC for the plain 417 washer.

Can an extension cord cause EB3? A long or thin cord can drop the voltage; use the wall outlet directly.

A low supply is an electrician's job; stop and call one before running the washer again

Do not use an extension cord or adapter to work around a low reading

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code EF1

Listed as clogged drain pump.

Unplug the washer. Clear the clog from the drain pump. If the drain pump is damaged, replace it. Parts named: drain pump.

• A clog in the drain pump: EF1 appears and the tub stays full, often with coins, lint or small items in the pump. Unplug the washer and clear the clog from the drain pump, as the chart says first
• A damaged or worn drain pump: The pump is clear but still does not pump water when it runs. The chart replaces the drain pump if it is damaged or will not pump water when running
• A blockage further along the drain hose or house drain: The pump is clear and running but water still does not leave. Check the drain hose and standpipe for kinks and clogs before condemning the pump

Water in the tub will run out when the pump is opened; bail the tub first if you can.

Remove coins, lint and small items from the pump; the chart says this is the first fix for EF1.

The chart's second step, once the pump is clear; check the drain hose and standpipe before ordering.

Drain pump.

Towels, a shallow pan and a screwdriver or nut driver for the lower panel.

What clogs a drain pump? Coins, lint, buttons and small items from pockets are the usual causes.

Do I need to unplug the washer? Yes; the chart starts with unplugging the washer, and the pump sits near electrical parts.

A damaged pump is replaced; get it quoted first

Stop and shut off the washer if wastewater is backing up onto the floor

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code EF2

Listed as too much suds.

Reduce the amount of high-efficiency (HE) high-efficiency detergent being used in the washer. Parts named: HE detergent.

• More high-efficiency detergent than the load needs: Suds are visible in the tub or dispenser and EF2 appears. Compare the amount used with the HE marking on the cap; the chart says to reduce it
• Standard detergent instead of high-efficiency: Heavy suds appear even when only a small measured dose was used. Check the label for an HE mark; ordinary detergent foams far more in a front-load washer
• Leftover suds from a previous load or a washer-cleaning product: EF2 shows at the start of the next wash. Run a rinse with no detergent and look inside the tub and door seal for foam

The chart's only instruction; measure to the HE marking on the cap and use less for small or lightly soiled loads.

Only water, so the foam thins out; repeat if the tub still holds a layer of suds.

Residue there re-foams in the next load; wipe them with a damp cloth after the rinse.

Reduce the amount of high-efficiency (HE) detergent.

A measuring cap and towels for suds at the door or dispenser.

Is there a part for EF2? No; the chart lists high-efficiency (HE) detergent as the only item.

Is EF2 the same as Sd on the HE2 washers? Both mean too much suds. The HE2 and HE5 washers show Sd; the 417 washers show EF2.

Can suds cause a drain code? Yes; heavy suds slow draining and can trigger E21 or EF1 before EF2 shows.

How much detergent is right? Follow the HE dosing on the cap or the detergent label and cut back further for small loads or soft water.

No part is listed; if EF2 returns on small loads with the right HE detergent, book service

Stop if suds are coming out of the dispenser or door

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code EF6

Listed as control reset.

Unplug the washer for 5 minutes and then restore power. If the code returns after restoring power, unplug the washer and replace the electronic control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

• A momentary control glitch that a full power reset clears: EF6 shows once and does not return after the washer is restarted. Unplug the washer for 5 minutes, restore power and see whether the code returns
• A power surge or outage that scrambled the control: The code first appeared after a storm, outage or tripped breaker. Note the date against any outage and try another outlet to rule out a supply fault
• The electronic control board has failed: The code returns again after the 5-minute reset and restart. The chart says if the code returns, unplug the washer and replace the electronic control board

Do not shorten it; the control needs the time to drain its stored charge and restart from a clean state.

A code that stays away through the whole cycle was a one-off. A code that returns immediately is a board fault.

The chart's remedy for EF6; quote the part against the washer's age before buying it, since it is a costly board.

None for the reset; a screwdriver or nut driver only if you go on to replace the board.

Will a surge protector help? It can rule out a supply issue but cannot repair a board whose memory has already failed.

If EF6 returns after a 5-minute reset, the chart's remedy is the electronic control board; get it quoted first

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code EF8

Listed as stuck button.

Free the stuck button. If you can't free the stuck button, unplug the washer and replace the user interface board. Parts named: user interface board.

• A button is physically stuck or held down: EF8 appears at power-up and one key seems slow to return. Press each button and see whether one stays down; the chart says to free the stuck button
• Dirt, residue or moisture under a button: The key feels sticky or the code follows a spill or heavy cleaning of the console. Unplug the washer and clean around the buttons with a barely damp cloth, then let it dry
• The user interface board has failed: The button cannot be freed or EF8 returns with every key moving freely. The chart says if you cannot free the stuck button, unplug the washer and replace the user interface board

Press and release each key firmly and see whether one has jammed; the chart's first and only DIY step.

Use a barely damp cloth, never a spray, and dry the console fully before you restore power to the washer.

That is the chart's remedy for EF8; match the replacement board to your washer's full model number before ordering.

User interface board.

A soft cloth, and a screwdriver or nut driver only if you replace the board.

Can a spill cause EF8? Yes; residue under a key can hold it down, and moisture can trigger a false press.

Is EF8 dangerous? No; it is a console fault, but keep power off if moisture is inside the console.

If the button cannot be freed, the chart's remedy is a new user interface board; quote it first

Stop and keep the power off if you find moisture inside the console

Kenmore 417 series laundry center washer code E14

Listed as dispenser drawer not closed.

Some models have a magnetic reed switch in the dispenser drawer housing that detects whether the dispenser drawer is closed. If the drawer is closed, check to see if the magnet on the bottom side of the drawer is in place. Replace the magnet if necessary. Replace the reed switch if it's defective. Parts named: dispenser drawer magnet, Reed switch.

• The dispenser drawer is not fully closed: E14 appears at the start of a cycle and the drawer sits slightly proud of the console. Push the drawer fully home and start again; a drawer that does not seat points to the next causes
• The magnet on the underside of the drawer is missing or has come loose: The drawer closes fully and sits flush but the code remains on the display. Check the magnet on the bottom side of the drawer is in place; the chart replaces it if necessary
• The reed switch in the drawer housing is defective: The drawer is closed and the magnet is in place but E14 remains. The chart replaces the reed switch if it is defective; some models have one and some do not

Check that nothing, such as a detergent cap or a caked residue, stops it seating, and start the cycle again.

The chart says some models detect the closed drawer with a magnetic reed switch. If the magnet has fallen out or come unstuck, it is replaced.

That is the chart's last step, and only on models that have the switch in the dispenser drawer housing.

The 417 model chart; some models only, where a reed switch is fitted.

Dispenser drawer magnet and reed switch.

None for the first two steps; a screwdriver or nut driver and a flashlight only if you reach the reed switch in the drawer housing.

Does every model have a dispenser reed switch? No. The chart says some models have a magnetic reed switch in the dispenser drawer housing; the code applies where the switch is fitted.

Is E14 serious? It is a sensing fault rather than a water or electrical hazard, but the washer may not start until the drawer reads closed.

Can residue cause E14? A drawer that is stiff or caked with detergent may not seat fully. Clean it and confirm it closes flush before looking at the magnet.

If the switch has to be replaced, get it quoted and confirm your model has one before ordering

Stop if the drawer housing is wet or the connector is corroded; dry it before testing again