Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer error codes

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e31-3-beeps-1-beep-moisture-sensor-failure

Listed as moisture sensor failure.

Check for any metal or foreign objects stuck between the moisture sensor bars.

If there's nothing stuck between the moisture sensor bars, unplug the laundry center and check the moisture sensor wire harness for damage. If the wire harness is intact, replace the dryer electronic control board. Parts named: wire harness, dryer electronic control board.

• Metal or a foreign object stuck between the moisture sensor bars: E31 (3 beeps, 1 beep) is reported and auto-dry cycles end early or run on. Look between the moisture sensor bars for a coin, a bra wire or other metal
• A damaged moisture sensor wire harness: Nothing is stuck between the bars and the harness looks cut, pinched or burnt. Unplug the laundry center and inspect the moisture sensor wire harness
• A dryer electronic control board that cannot read a good sensor: The bars are clear and the harness is intact but the code remains. The chart replaces the dryer electronic control board if the wire harness is intact

The sensor bars sit inside the drum and read how damp the load is. Anything metal bridging them gives a false reading.

Replace the wire harness if it is damaged, worn through or burnt at a connector, before you consider the control board.

The chart names the wire harness and the dryer electronic control board as the parts, in that order.

E31: 3 beeps, 1 beep (417 series laundry center dryer table).

Wire harness and dryer electronic control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver.

What does E31 (3 beeps, 1 beep) mean on a Kenmore 417 laundry center dryer? A moisture sensor failure, in the chart's words.

Is E31 the same on the washer half? No. The washer side has its own E-codes on its own pages.

Unplug the laundry center before you reach into the dryer drum area or the wiring

The board is the last and costliest part, so clear the bars and check the harness first

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e41-4-beeps-1-beep-door-open

Listed as door open.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the door switch and the dryer electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. If you find no wiring problems, check the resistance of the door switch using a multimeter. With the door switch plunger pushed in, you should measure near 0 ohms of resistance through the door switch prongs with red and orange wires. Replace the door switch if you measure infinite resistance. If door switch resistance is okay, replace the dryer electronic control board because it isn't detecting the door switch condition. Parts named: wire harness, door switch, dryer electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the door switch and the dryer electronic control board: E41 (4 beeps, 1 beep) is reported and the dryer will not start with the door shut. Unplug the laundry center and check the harness connections at the door switch and the board
• A door switch that does not close when the door is shut: The wiring is fine and the switch measures open with the plunger pushed in. Measure the door switch; the chart expects near 0 ohms with the plunger pushed in
• A dryer electronic control board that is not detecting the door switch: The switch measures near 0 ohms and the code remains. The chart replaces the board because it isn't detecting the door switch condition

With the door switch plunger pushed in, you should measure near 0 ohms through the prongs with the red and orange wires. Replace the door switch if you measure infinite resistance.

The chart says the board isn't detecting the door switch condition, so the board is replaced only after the switch and the wiring have passed.

Wire harness, door switch and dryer electronic control board.

A multimeter and a screwdriver or nut driver.

What should the door switch measure? Near 0 ohms with the plunger pushed in, through the prongs with the red and orange wires.

What is replaced last? The dryer electronic control board.

Unplug the laundry center before you touch the door switch wiring

Do not bypass the door switch, because the drum must stop when the door opens

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e51-5-beeps-1-beep-motor-relay-is-open

Listed as motor relay is open.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections on the dryer motor and the dryer electronic control board. or replace the wire harness if damaged. On an electric dryer model, check the resistance of the outlet thermal limiter (on the upper back panel) because it shuts off the motor when the dryer overheats. You should measure near 0 ohms of resistance through the outlet thermal limiter. Replace the outlet thermal limiter if you measure infinite resistance. (Diagnose and repair the cause for the electric dryer overheating to prevent the outlet thermal limiter from continuing to trip.

The most common causes are a clogged exhaust vent, clogged lint screen and failed thermistor.) Conduct these additional tests on electric dryers, as well as gas dryers. Check the resistance through the motor circuit from the dryer control board. The motor connects to the control board through the white wire on the J1 plug and the black wire on the J2 plug. Disconnect those plugs and measure the resistance through the black and white wires. You should measure about 3 ohms of resistance. If you measure infinite resistance, you'll need to test for a failed motor or a break in the wiring.

To test the motor, unplug the wire harness from the motor and check the resistance through prongs 4 and 5 on the motor. Replace the drive motor if you measure infinite resistance. If you measure around 3 ohms of resistance through prongs 4 and 5, then the motor is likely okay and a break in the wiring caused the infinite resistance through the motor circuit. Find and repair the wiring break. If you measured about 3 ohms of resistance through the motor circuit through the black and wires at the dryer electronic control board, replace the dryer electronic control board because its motor relay isn't working.

Parts named: wire harness, outlet thermal limiter, dryer motor, dryer electronic control board.

• Loose or damaged wire harness connections on the dryer motor or the dryer electronic control board: E51 (5 beeps, 1 beep) is reported and the drum does not turn. Unplug the laundry center and check the harness connections at the motor and at the board
• A tripped outlet thermal limiter on an electric dryer, which shuts off the motor when the dryer overheats: The limiter measures infinite resistance instead of near 0 ohms. Measure the outlet thermal limiter on the upper back panel
• A break in the motor circuit wiring or a failed motor: The circuit from the board measures infinite instead of about 3 ohms. Measure the motor circuit through the white wire on J1 and the black wire on J2
• A dryer electronic control board whose motor relay isn't working: The motor circuit measures about 3 ohms and the code remains. The chart replaces the dryer electronic control board in that case

It should measure near 0 ohms. Replace it if you measure infinite resistance, and fix the cause of the overheating, usually a clogged vent, clogged lint screen or failed thermistor.

The motor connects through the white wire on J1 and the black wire on J2 and should read about 3 ohms. Infinite: test prongs 4 and 5 on the motor; infinite there means a failed motor, about 3 ohms there means a wiring break. About 3 ohms at the board means the board's motor relay isn't working.

Wire harness, outlet thermal limiter, dryer motor and dryer electronic control board.

What does E51 (5 beeps, 1 beep) mean on a Kenmore 417 laundry center dryer? A motor relay is open, in the chart's words.

What should the motor circuit measure? About 3 ohms through the black and white wires at the board.

What is the outlet thermal limiter? A part on the upper back panel of an electric dryer that shuts off the motor when the dryer overheats.

Unplug the laundry center before touching any dryer wiring, and let an overheated dryer cool first

A tripped outlet thermal limiter means the dryer overheated; find and fix the cause before you fit a new one

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e52-5-beeps-2-beeps-motor-relay-stuck-closed

Listed as motor relay stuck closed.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connected to the dryer motor for damage. If the wire harness is okay, replace the dryer electronic control board because the motor relay is stuck closed or the dryer electronic control board is errantly detecting that failure. Parts named: wire harness, dryer electronic control board.

• A damaged wire harness on the dryer motor: E52 (5 beeps, 2 beeps) is reported and the motor runs when it should be off. Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connected to the dryer motor for damage
• A motor relay on the dryer electronic control board that is stuck closed: The wire harness is fine and the motor still runs on. The chart replaces the board because the motor relay is stuck closed
• A board that is wrongly detecting a stuck relay: The motor behaves normally but the code appears on the beeping display. The chart says the board may be errantly detecting that failure and is replaced either way

A motor relay stuck closed can keep the drive motor running, so disconnect power before you inspect anything.

Replace the wire harness if it is damaged, worn through or burnt at a connector, before you consider the control board.

The chart says the motor relay is stuck closed or the board is errantly detecting that failure.

E52: 5 beeps, 2 beeps (417 series laundry center dryer table).

Could the board be wrong? Yes. The chart says the board may be errantly detecting the failure.

Unplug the laundry center at once if the motor keeps running after the dryer stops

The board is a costly part, so check the harness first

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e53-5-beeps-3-beeps-motor-stopped-mid-cycle

Listed as motor stopped mid-cycle.

Overloading can overheat the drive motor, causing a tripped motor thermal protector. The motor thermal protector resets after the motor cools down. Reduce the load and allow the motor to cool off for 30 minutes before restarting the dryer. If the dryer won't restart, unplug the laundry center. On an electric dryer model, check the resistance of the outlet thermal limiter because it shuts off the motor when the dryer overheats. You should measure near 0 ohms of resistance through the outlet thermal limiter. Replace the outlet thermal limiter if you measure infinite resistance.

(Diagnose and repair the cause for the electric dryer overheating to prevent the outlet thermal limiter from continuing to trip. The most common causes are a clogged exhaust vent, clogged lint screen and failed thermistor.) Next, check the resistance of the door switch. With the door switch plunger pushed in, you should measure near 0 ohms of resistance through the door switch prongs with red and orange wires. Replace the door switch if you measure infinite resistance. If the door switch is okay, unload the dryer and manually rotate the drum to see if it spins.

You should feel reasonable resistance because the belt spins the motor pulley as you rotate the drum. If you can't spin the drum, disconnect the belt from the motor pulley and try again. If the drum spins with the belt disconnected, see if the motor pulley spins. If not, replace the motor because the motor shaft locked up. If the drum doesn't spin with the belt disconnected, check the rear drum bearing and front glide for damage and replace any damaged parts. Parts named: outlet thermal limiter, door switch, dryer motor, dryer rear drum bearing, dryer drum front glide.

• An overloaded dryer that overheated the drive motor and tripped the motor thermal protector: E53 (5 beeps, 3 beeps) is reported after a heavy load and the motor is hot. Reduce the load and let the motor cool for 30 minutes before restarting
• A tripped outlet thermal limiter on an electric dryer: The dryer will not restart after the cool-down and the limiter measures infinite. Measure the outlet thermal limiter; the chart expects near 0 ohms
• A door switch that measures open: The limiter is fine and the door switch reads infinite with the plunger pushed in. Measure the door switch prongs with the red and orange wires
• A drum that will not turn because of a locked motor shaft, a worn bearing or a worn glide: The drum does not spin by hand even with the belt off. Rotate the drum by hand, then disconnect the belt from the motor pulley and try again

The chart says overloading can overheat the drive motor and trip the motor thermal protector, which resets after the motor cools. Restart the dryer afterwards.

On an electric dryer the limiter should measure near 0 ohms; the door switch with its plunger pushed in should also be near 0 ohms. Replace either if it measures infinite.

You should feel reasonable resistance because the belt spins the motor pulley. If the drum will not turn, disconnect the belt; if the drum then spins but the pulley does not, replace the motor, and if the drum still will not spin, check the rear drum bearing and front glide.

Outlet thermal limiter, door switch, dryer motor, dryer rear drum bearing and dryer drum front glide.

What usually causes it? Overloading, which overheats the drive motor and trips the motor thermal protector.

How long should the motor cool? 30 minutes, per the chart.

Let the motor cool with the laundry center unplugged before you touch it

A tripped outlet thermal limiter means the dryer overheated; find the cause before you fit a new one

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e54-5-beeps-4-beeps-motor-centrifugal-switch-heater-or

Listed as motor centrifugal switch, heater or outlet thermal limiter failure.

Unplug the laundry center and then unplug motor wire harness. Check the resistance through prongs 1 and 2 on the motor. You should measure infinite resistance (no continuity). If not, replace the drive motor because a failed centrifugal switch in the motor is allowing current to flow through those prongs when the motor is off. Conduct these additional tests on laundry centers with electric dryers. Check the resistance of the heating element. You should measure around 11 ohms of resistance through the element. Replace the element if you measure infinite resistance.

Check for resistance between each prong of the heating element and bare metal on the heater housing. If you measure resistance, replace the heating element because it's broken and shorting to metal, which acts as a ground. Check the resistance through the outlet thermal limiter. You should measure near 0 ohms of resistance through the outlet thermal limiter. Replace the outlet thermal limiter if you measure infinite resistance. Diagnose and repair the cause for overheating (such as a clogged exhaust vent) to prevent the outlet thermal limiter from continuing to trip.

Parts named: dryer motor, heating element, outlet thermal limiter.

• A failed centrifugal switch in the drive motor that lets current flow when the motor is off: E54 (5 beeps, 4 beeps) is reported and prongs 1 and 2 do not read infinite. Unplug the motor harness and measure prongs 1 and 2; the chart expects infinite resistance
• On an electric dryer, a broken heating element: The element measures infinite instead of about 11 ohms. Measure the heating element; the chart expects around 11 ohms
• On an electric dryer, a heating element shorting to its housing: There is resistance between an element prong and bare metal on the heater housing. Measure from each element prong to the housing
• On an electric dryer, a failed outlet thermal limiter: The limiter measures infinite instead of near 0 ohms. Measure the outlet thermal limiter and fix the cause of any overheating

You should measure infinite resistance (no continuity). If not, replace the drive motor, because a failed centrifugal switch is letting current flow when the motor is off.

About 11 ohms through the element; replace it if infinite. Any resistance between an element prong and bare metal on the heater housing means the element is broken and shorting to ground, so replace it.

It should measure near 0 ohms; replace it if infinite, and diagnose and repair the cause of overheating, such as a clogged exhaust vent.

Dryer motor, heating element and outlet thermal limiter.

What should motor prongs 1 and 2 measure? Infinite resistance, meaning no continuity, with the motor off.

Unplug the laundry center before touching the motor harness or the heater

A failed outlet thermal limiter means the dryer overheated, so clear the vent and check the lint screen before fitting a new one

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e55-5-beeps-5-beeps-dryer-electronic-control-board-failure

Listed as dryer electronic control board failure.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections on the dryer electronic control board. and replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wiring connections are okay, replace the dryer electronic control board. Parts named: wire harness, dryer electronic control board.

• Loose or damaged wire harness connections on the dryer electronic control board: E55 (5 beeps, 5 beeps) is reported and the dryer will not run. Unplug the laundry center and check the harness connections on the board
• A damaged wire harness: The plug is seated but the wire is worn or burnt. Replace the wire harness if it is damaged
• A failed dryer electronic control board: The wiring connections are okay and the code remains. The chart replaces the board if the wiring connections are okay

Use the plug and open the control area only when the laundry center is fully disconnected, and keep the plug in sight.

The chart names the wire harness and the dryer electronic control board, and replaces the board only after the wiring has passed.

Unplug the laundry center before opening the control area

The board is a costly part, so check the harness connections first

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e56-5-beeps-6-beeps-broken-drum-belt

Listed as broken drum belt.

Unplug the laundry center and replace the drum belt. Parts named: drum belt.

• The drum belt has broken: E56 (5 beeps, 6 beeps) is reported, the motor runs and the drum does not turn. Turn the drum by hand; a broken belt leaves it spinning freely with no resistance
• A belt that has slipped off the motor pulley or idler: The belt is present but lying loose inside the cabinet. Look inside the cabinet for a belt that has come off its pulleys
• A belt worn thin from age: The belt is frayed, glazed, stretched or cracked along its length. Inspect the belt along its whole length and around each pulley

Disconnect power before you open the dryer cabinet, and keep the plug where you can see it while you work.

Look at the belt and the pulleys. A broken belt leaves the drum turning freely by hand.

The chart says to unplug the laundry center and replace the drum belt, and names it as the only part for E56.

Drum belt.

A screwdriver or nut driver and a putty knife for the cabinet clips.

Is there anything else to check? The chart gives none; it says to unplug the laundry center and replace the drum belt.

Unplug the laundry center before opening the cabinet

A dryer belt sits in a tight space; consider a technician if you have not opened this dryer before

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e61-6-beeps-1-beep-heater-relay-failure

Listed as heater relay failure.

If the dryer heats, check to see if the heater relay is stuck closed. Unplug the laundry center and unplug the wires from the heater relay on the dryer electronic control board. Measure the resistance through the prongs on the heater relay. You should measure infinite resistance. If you measure near 0 ohms of resistance, replace the dryer electronic control board because the heater relay is stuck closed. If the dryer doesn't heat, the heater relay could be stuck open. For gas dryers, check to see if the igniter glows when you run the dryer on a high heat setting.

If the igniter doesn't glow, unplug the laundry center and check the resistance through the high-limit thermostat. You should measure near 0 ohms of resistance. If you measure infinite resistance, replace the high-limit thermostat. If the high-limit thermostat is okay, check the resistance through the inlet thermal limiter in the same manner. Replace the inlet thermal limiter if you measure infinite resistance. Check the resistance through the igniter. You should measure 50 to 400 ohms. If you measure infinite resistance, replace the igniter. If the igniter is okay, then you'll likely need to replace the dryer electronic control board because the relay isn't sending power to the igniter and gas valve assembly.

For a laundry center with an electric dryer, unplug the laundry center and check the high-limit thermostat and inlet thermal limiter in the same manner as described for the gas dryer and replace any failed components. Measure the resistance through the heating element. You should measure about 11 ohms. Replace the heating element if you measure infinite resistance. If the heating element is okay, then you'll likely need to replace the dryer electronic control board because the relay isn't sending power to the heating element. Parts named: dryer electronic control board, high-limit thermostat, inlet thermal limiter, igniter, heating element.

• A heater relay stuck closed on the dryer electronic control board, so the dryer heats when it should not: E61 (6 beeps, 1 beep) is reported and the dryer keeps heating. Unplug the heater relay wires and measure across the relay prongs; the chart expects infinite resistance
• A heater relay stuck open, so the dryer does not heat: The dryer tumbles cold and the heating parts test good. Test the heating parts before you blame the board
• On a gas dryer, a failed high-limit thermostat, inlet thermal limiter or igniter: The igniter does not glow on a high heat setting. Measure the high-limit thermostat (near 0 ohms), the inlet thermal limiter and the igniter (50 to 400 ohms)
• On an electric dryer, a failed high-limit thermostat, inlet thermal limiter or heating element: The heating element does not warm up when the dryer runs. Measure the thermostat and limiter, and the element (about 11 ohms)

Unplug the laundry center, unplug the wires from the heater relay on the dryer electronic control board and measure across the relay prongs. Infinite is right; near 0 ohms means the relay is stuck closed, so replace the board.

See whether the igniter glows on a high heat setting. If not, the high-limit thermostat should measure near 0 ohms (replace it if infinite), then the inlet thermal limiter the same way, then the igniter at 50 to 400 ohms (replace it if infinite).

For an electric dryer, check the high-limit thermostat and inlet thermal limiter the same way, and the heating element at about 11 ohms. If they are okay, the relay isn't sending power to the element, so the board is the part.

Dryer electronic control board, high-limit thermostat, inlet thermal limiter, igniter and heating element.

What should the heater relay measure? Infinite resistance across its prongs; near 0 ohms means it is stuck closed.

What should the gas igniter measure? 50 to 400 ohms, per the chart.

Unplug the laundry center before unplugging any relay wires, and let the heater cool first

The chart's gas-dryer steps are component tests only; do not open or adjust the gas connections yourself

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e62-6-beeps-2-beeps-not-heating

Listed as not heating.

For laundry centers with electric dryers, check the house circuit breakers for the laundry center outlet. The dryer won't heat if the L2 leg of 240-volt power is missing. Reset the breaker if necessary. Unplug the laundry center and check the power cord wiring on the dryer terminal block. Reconnect any loose power cord connections and wire the power cord according to the directions in the installation manual. Replace the power cord if damaged. Measure the resistance through the heating element. You should measure about 11 ohms. Replace the heating element if you measure infinite resistance.

Check the resistance through the high-limit thermostat. You should measure near 0 ohms of resistance. If you measure infinite resistance, replace the high-limit thermostat. Check the resistance through the inlet thermal limiter in the same manner. Replace the inlet thermal limiter if you measure infinite resistance. For laundry centers with gas dryers, check the gas supply cut-off valve to make sure it is fully open. See if the igniter glows when you run the dryer on a high heat setting. If the igniter doesn't glow, unplug the laundry center and check the high-limit thermostat and inlet thermal limiter the same way as for the electric dryer and replace any failed components.

Check the resistance through the igniter. You should measure 50 to 400 ohms. If you measure infinite resistance, replace the igniter. If the igniter glows but the burner won't light, check to see if the igniter fades off after a few minutes. If the dryer runs for more than 5 minutes with the igniter glowing constantly, then the flame sensor may have failed. The flame sensor should shut off the igniter to divert current through the gas valve coils to ignite the burner once the igniter reaches ignition temperature. Replace the flame sensor if the igniter glows and never shuts off.

If the igniter fades off but the burner doesn't ignite, you'll likely need to replace the valve coils because they're not opening to supply gas to the burner. Parts named: power cord, heating element, high-limit thermostat, inlet thermal limiter, igniter, flame sensor, gas valve coils.

• On an electric dryer, a missing L2 leg of 240 volt power from a tripped breaker: E62 (6 beeps, 2 beeps) is reported and the dryer tumbles but does not heat. Check the house circuit breakers for the laundry center outlet and reset the breaker if it has tripped
• Loose or damaged power cord wiring on the dryer terminal block: The cord connections look loose, discolored or burnt at the terminal block. Unplug the laundry center and check the power cord wiring on the terminal block
• On an electric dryer, a failed heating element, high-limit thermostat or inlet thermal limiter: The element measures infinite instead of about 11 ohms, or a limiter measures infinite. Measure the element (about 11 ohms) and the thermostat and limiter (near 0 ohms)
• On a gas dryer, a closed gas supply cut-off valve or a failed igniter: The igniter does not glow on a high heat setting. Make sure the gas supply cut-off valve is fully open and measure the igniter at 50 to 400 ohms
• On a gas dryer, a failed flame sensor or valve coils: The igniter glows but the burner will not light, or the igniter never shuts off. Watch whether the igniter fades off after a few minutes

The dryer won't heat if the L2 leg of 240 volt power is missing. Reset the breaker, then unplug and check the terminal block, reconnect loose connections per the installation manual and replace a damaged cord.

The element should read about 11 ohms and the thermostat and limiter near 0 ohms. Replace whichever measures infinite.

Confirm the valve is fully open and the igniter glows on high heat. If it does not, test the thermostat and limiter, then the igniter (50 to 400 ohms). If it glows but the burner won't light: an igniter that never fades means replace the flame sensor, and one that fades with no flame means replace the valve coils.

Power cord, heating element, high-limit thermostat, inlet thermal limiter, igniter, flame sensor and gas valve coils.

What is the L2 leg? One of the two legs of 240 volt power; the chart says the electric dryer won't heat if it is missing.

What does the flame sensor do? It should shut off the igniter to divert current through the gas valve coils once the igniter reaches ignition temperature.

Do not adjust or disconnect any gas connection yourself; the chart's gas steps are component tests and a valve position check

Unplug the laundry center before touching the terminal block or any wiring, and have an electrician check a power supply that keeps tripping

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e67-6-beeps-7-beeps-dryer-electronic-control-board-failure

Listed as dryer electronic control board failure.

Unplug the laundry center and replace the dryer electronic control board. Parts named: dryer electronic control board.

• An internal failure of the dryer electronic control board: E67 (6 beeps, 7 beeps) is reported and the dryer will not run a normal cycle. The chart replaces the board directly, so confirm the beep pattern first
• A power surge that damaged the board: The code followed a storm, an outage or a breaker trip. Note whether other electronics on the circuit were affected
• A one-off fault that clears when power is cut: E67 appears once and then does not return afterwards. Unplug the laundry center for several minutes and try a short cycle

This resets the control if the fault was a one-off. The chart does not include this step, but it costs nothing.

If E67 does not return over a short cycle, no repair is needed and the board stays in place.

The chart's whole instruction for E67, once the beep pattern is confirmed. Match the board to your full model number before you order.

Dryer electronic control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver and a wrist strap.

Unplug the laundry center before you open the control area

The board is a costly part, so price it against the age of the laundry center before ordering

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e71-7-beeps-1-beep-thermistor-unplugged-or-defective

Listed as thermistor unplugged or defective.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connection between the thermistor and the dryer electronic control board. and repair any damaged wires. Measure the resistance of the thermistor. You should measure around 50,000 ohms at room temperature (77 degrees F). Replace the thermistor if you measure infinite resistance. If the thermistor is okay, replace the dryer electronic control board because it isn't detecting the thermistor. Parts named: thermistor, dryer electronic control board.

• A loose or damaged wire harness between the thermistor and the dryer electronic control board: E71 (7 beeps, 1 beep) is reported and the temperature control stops working. Unplug the laundry center and check the harness connection between the thermistor and the board
• A thermistor that has failed open: The wiring is fine and the thermistor measures infinite instead of around 50,000 ohms. Measure the thermistor; the chart expects around 50,000 ohms at 77 degrees F
• A dryer electronic control board that is not detecting a good thermistor: The thermistor measures normally and the code still remains afterwards. The chart replaces the board because it isn't detecting the thermistor

at both ends and repair any damaged wires along the harness.

You should measure around 50,000 ohms at room temperature (77 degrees F). Replace the thermistor if you measure infinite resistance.

The chart says the board isn't detecting the thermistor, so the board is replaced only after the thermistor has passed its test.

Unplug the laundry center and let the dryer cool before you reach the thermistor

The board is the last and costliest part, so measure the thermistor and check the wiring first

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e72-7-beeps-2-beeps-thermistor-shorted

Listed as thermistor shorted.

Unplug the laundry center and disconnect the thermistor wire harness (yellow and tan wires) from the dryer control board. Measure the resistance through the yellow and tan wires. You should measure around 50,000 ohms at room temperature (77 degrees F). Replace the thermistor if you measure near 0 resistance. Replace the dryer electronic control board if thermistor resistance is correct. Parts named: thermistor, dryer electronic control board.

• A shorted thermistor: E72 (7 beeps, 2 beeps) is reported and the yellow and tan wires read near 0 ohms. Disconnect the thermistor harness and measure the yellow and tan wires
• A pinched thermistor wire that shorts the circuit: The reading is near 0 ohms and the wire touches metal. Look along the thermistor wires for a squashed or bare section
• A dryer electronic control board that misreads a good thermistor: The thermistor measures around 50,000 ohms and the code remains. The chart replaces the board if the thermistor resistance is correct

The harness has yellow and tan wires; unplug the harness from the board so you measure the thermistor alone.

You should measure around 50,000 ohms at room temperature (77 degrees F). Replace the thermistor if you measure near 0 resistance.

The chart names the thermistor and the board, in that order, and replaces the board only if the thermistor reads correctly.

Which wires are measured? The yellow and tan wires of the thermistor harness.

Unplug the laundry center and let the dryer cool before you reach the thermistor

The board is the last and costliest part, so measure the thermistor first

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e81-8-beeps-1-beep-user-interface-failure

Listed as user interface failure.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the dryer electronic control board and the cycle selector. Also, check the wire connections for the modifier switches. and repair any broken wires. If you find the wires intact, replace the cycle selector. If the problem continues, replace the modifier switches. If the problem still continues, replace the dryer electronic control board. Parts named: cycle selector, modifier switches, dryer electronic control board.

• Loose or broken wiring between the dryer electronic control board and the cycle selector: E81 (8 beeps, 1 beep) is reported and the controls behave erratically. Unplug the laundry center and check the harness connections at the cycle selector and the board
• Loose or broken wiring at the modifier switches: The cycle selector wiring is fine but a modifier switch is not registering. Check the wire connections for the modifier switches
• A failed cycle selector: The wires are intact and the code still remains afterwards. The chart replaces the cycle selector first, if the wires are intact
• Failed modifier switches: A new cycle selector fitted to the console still gives E81. The chart replaces the modifier switches next, before the board
• A failed dryer electronic control board: The selector and the switches are both new and the code remains. The chart replaces the board last, after the switches have been replaced

Also check the wire connections for the modifier switches, since they are part of the same user interface circuit.

If the wires are intact, replace the cycle selector, and test the controls before you go on to the switches.

The chart's order after the wiring is the cycle selector, then the modifier switches, then the board, one at a time.

Cycle selector, modifier switches and dryer electronic control board.

Unplug the laundry center before opening the console

Replace one part at a time and test between them, since the chart names three parts in order

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e82-8-beeps-2-beeps-cycle-selector-failure

Listed as cycle selector failure.

Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the dryer electronic control board and the cycle selector. and repair any broken wires. If the wires are okay, replace the cycle selector. If the problem continues, replace the dryer electronic control board. Parts named: cycle selector, dryer electronic control board.

• Loose or broken wiring between the dryer electronic control board and the cycle selector: E82 (8 beeps, 2 beeps) is reported and the cycle selector does not register positions. Unplug the laundry center and check the wire harness connections between the board and the selector
• A failed cycle selector: The wires are okay and the code still remains afterwards. The chart replaces the cycle selector if the wires are okay
• A failed dryer electronic control board: A new cycle selector fitted to the console still gives E82. The chart replaces the board if the problem continues

at both ends and repair any broken wires, checking the plugs on the selector and on the board.

The chart names the cycle selector as the first part for E82, once the wiring between it and the board is sound.

This is the chart's last part for E82, taken only after the wiring and the selector have both been dealt with.

Cycle selector and dryer electronic control board.

Replace the cycle selector first, then the board only if the code continues

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e93-9-beeps-3-beeps-dryer-electronic-control-board

Listed as dryer electronic control board software failure.

Unplug the laundry center and replace the dryer electronic control board. Parts named: dryer electronic control board.

• A software failure on the dryer electronic control board: E93 (9 beeps, 3 beeps) is reported and the dryer will not run. The chart replaces the board directly, so confirm the beep pattern first
• A power surge that corrupted the board: The code followed a storm, an outage or a breaker trip. Note whether other electronics on the circuit were affected

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e94-9-beeps-4-beeps-dryer-electronic-control-board

Listed as dryer electronic control board initialization failure.

Unplug the laundry center and replace the dryer electronic control board. Parts named: dryer electronic control board.

• An initialization failure on the dryer electronic control board: E94 (9 beeps, 4 beeps) is reported and the dryer will not start up properly. The chart replaces the board directly, so confirm the beep pattern first
• A power interruption during start-up: The code appeared right after a brownout or a breaker trip. Note whether power was interrupted as the dryer started

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code e97-9-beeps-7-beeps-cycle-selector-defective

Listed as cycle selector defective.

Unplug the laundry center and replace the cycle selector. If the problem continues, replace the dryer electronic control board. Parts named: cycle selector, dryer electronic control board.

• A defective cycle selector: E97 (9 beeps, 7 beeps) is reported and the selector does not register positions. The chart replaces the cycle selector directly, without a wiring check
• A cycle selector that is worn or has a broken contact: The selector feels loose, gritty or does not click between positions. Turn the selector through every position and note where it fails
• A dryer electronic control board that keeps the code after a new selector: A new cycle selector fitted to the console still gives E97. The chart replaces the board if the problem continues

Use the plug and open the console only when the laundry center is fully disconnected, and keep the plug in sight.

The chart replaces the cycle selector directly for E97, without a wiring check, so order the selector by your full model number.

This is the chart's second and last part for E97, taken only if the code continues after the new cycle selector.

Cycle selector and dryer electronic control board.

Should I test the selector before replacing it? The chart gives no test for E97. It replaces the cycle selector directly, so check that the selector's part number matches your model and that its plug is seated before you order a new one.

The board is a costly part, so replace the selector first, as the chart says

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code ea1-10-beeps-1-beep-incoming-power-frequency-out-of-limits

Listed as incoming power frequency out of limits.

The dryer stops and beeps 10 times when incoming power frequency isn't 60 Hz or incoming power voltage isn't correct. You won't be able to start the diagnostic test until you restore incoming power with the right frequency and voltage to the washer. Unplug the laundry center and have your local electricity provider check the power supply frequency and voltage. If the power supply is okay and the code doesn't clear, replace the dryer electronic control board. Parts named: dryer electronic control board.

• The incoming power frequency is not 60 Hz: EA1 (10 beeps, 1 beep) is reported, the dryer stops and beeps 10 times. Have your local electricity provider check the power supply frequency
• The incoming power voltage is not correct: The dryer stops and the diagnostic test will not start. Have your electricity provider check the voltage as well
• A dryer electronic control board that misreads a good supply: The provider says the power supply is okay and the code remains. The chart replaces the dryer electronic control board if the code doesn't clear

EA1 is about the supply rather than the dryer's own parts, so disconnect before anything else.

The chart says the dryer stops and beeps 10 times when the frequency isn't 60 Hz or the voltage isn't correct.

The chart names the board as the only part for EA1, and replaces it only after the provider has confirmed the supply.

EA1: 10 beeps, 1 beep (417 series laundry center dryer table).

None for the supply check; a screwdriver or nut driver for the board.

What frequency is expected? 60 Hz, according to the chart.

Can I run the diagnostic test? Not until incoming power with the right frequency and voltage is restored.

Do not run the laundry center from a generator whose frequency and voltage you cannot verify

You won't be able to start the diagnostic test until the right frequency and voltage are restored, per the chart

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code ea2-10-beeps-2-beeps-incoming-power-voltage-too-high

Listed as incoming power voltage too high.

The dryer stops and beeps 10 times when incoming power frequency isn't 60 Hz or incoming power voltage isn't correct. You won't be able to start the diagnostic test until you restore incoming power with the right frequency and voltage to the washer. Unplug the laundry center and have your local electricity provider check the power supply frequency and voltage. If the power supply is okay and the code doesn't clear, replace the dryer electronic control board. Parts named: dryer electronic control board.

• The incoming power voltage is too high: EA2 (10 beeps, 2 beeps) is reported and the dryer stops and beeps 10 times. Have your local electricity provider check the power supply voltage
• An incoming power frequency that is not 60 Hz: The voltage reads normal but the frequency seems to drift. Have the provider check the frequency as well
• A dryer electronic control board that misreads a good supply: The provider says the supply is okay and the code remains. The chart replaces the dryer electronic control board if the code doesn't clear

EA2 is about the supply being too high, so disconnect the laundry center before anything else, and leave it unplugged.

The chart words all three EA codes the same way and covers both the frequency and the voltage.

EA2: 10 beeps, 2 beeps (417 series laundry center dryer table).

Do not run the laundry center on a supply that is too high, because it can damage the board

You won't be able to start the diagnostic test until the right voltage and frequency are restored, per the chart

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code ea3-10-beeps-3-beeps-incoming-power-voltage-too-low

Listed as incoming power voltage too low.

The dryer stops and beeps 10 times when incoming power frequency isn't 60 Hz or incoming power voltage isn't correct. You won't be able to start the diagnostic test until you restore incoming power with the right frequency and voltage to the washer. Unplug the laundry center and have your local electricity provider check the power supply frequency and voltage. If the power supply is okay and the code doesn't clear, replace the dryer electronic control board. Parts named: dryer electronic control board.

• The incoming power voltage is too low: EA3 (10 beeps, 3 beeps) is reported and the dryer stops and beeps 10 times. Have your local electricity provider check the power supply voltage
• A loose or worn outlet or connection that drops the voltage: The plug or outlet is warm, loose or discolored. Inspect the outlet and the plug for heat marks
• A dryer electronic control board that misreads a good supply: The provider says the supply is okay and the code remains. The chart replaces the dryer electronic control board if the code doesn't clear

EA3 is about the supply being too low, so disconnect the laundry center before anything else, and leave it unplugged.

A worn outlet or a loose connection can look like a low supply, so ask for the outlet to be checked too.

Can a loose outlet cause it? It can drop the voltage, so have the outlet checked as well.

Stop and unplug the laundry center if the plug or outlet is hot or smells of burning

You won't be able to start the diagnostic test until the right voltage and frequency are restored, per the chart

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code ea5-10-beeps-5-beeps-dryer-electronic-control-board

Listed as dryer electronic control board internal failure.

Unplug the laundry center and replace the dryer electronic control board. Parts named: dryer electronic control board.

• An internal failure of the dryer electronic control board: EA5 (10 beeps, 5 beeps) is reported and the dryer will not run. The chart replaces the board directly, so confirm the beep pattern first
• A power surge that damaged the board: The code followed a storm, an outage or a breaker trip. Note whether other electronics on the circuit were affected

The chart's whole instruction for EA5, the internal failure, once the beep pattern is confirmed. Match the board to your full model number.

How is it different from EA1 to EA3? Those are about the incoming power; EA5 is the board itself.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code E10, E11 and E12

Listed as electronic control board communication error.

Unplug the dryer for 5 minutes to reset the control board. Plug the dryer in and start a cycle. If the code appears, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code E24 and E25

Listed as thermistor error.

Unplug the dryer. Check the resistance of the thermistor (temperature sensor). It should measure around 50,000 ohms. If it's defective, replace it. Parts named: thermistor.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code E4A

Listed as long dry time.

The normal dry time for the cycle has been exceeded. This code usually indicated a problem with the heating system. Unplug the dryer and check the heating element or gas burner components. Replace any defective parts. Parts named: heating system components.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code E5B

Listed as no heat.

Unplug the dryer and check the heating system components. For an electric dryer, check the house circuit breakers to see if one has tripped. For a gas dryer, make sure that the gas supply cut-off valve is fully open. Parts named: heating system components.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code E68

Listed as stuck key on the electronic control board.

If you can't free the stuck key, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: electronic control board.

Kenmore 417 series laundry center dryer code E8C

Listed as frequent high-limit thermostat trips.

The high limit thermostat trips if the dryer overheats. Clear any blockage found in the exhaust vent path. If the dryer heats constantly because a relay on the electronic control board is stuck, replace the electronic control board. Parts named: electronic control board.