Whirlpool wall oven error codes

Whirlpool wall oven code 1C31, 1C32, 1C4C, 1C6C, 1C7C, 1C81, 1C82, 1C8C, 3D51, 4D31, 4D32, F03, F04, F06, F0 E0, F1 E7, F1 E9

The electronic oven control reported an internal error

Turn off the breaker for a minute and restore power.

Replace the electronic oven control only if the code returns straight after the reset. Power reset only (1 minute).

• A single control hiccup that a restart clears: The code shows one time, for example after a brownout, and never comes back. Switch the breaker off for a minute, as Whirlpool says, switch it on again and run a bake cycle
• A defective electronic oven control (F1, F1 E1 on the KitchenAid table): The code returns straight after the reset and the display or heating misbehaves. The Whirlpool wall oven table says F1 is a defective electronic oven control (EOC) and to replace it; the KitchenAid table gives F1/E1 as an electronic oven control board failure
• A control that cannot say what went wrong (F0 E0): F0 E0 shows with no other matching fault on the display. Whirlpool says F0 E0 appears when the electronic oven control cannot recognize what type of problem occurred
• A mismatched or wrongly programmed control (KitchenAid F6/E4, F6/E5): The code appeared right after a board was replaced. The KitchenAid table says a wrong user interface or control board was installed, or a replacement board was not programmed for the oven size

For this group Whirlpool's reset is to switch the wall oven's circuit breaker off, wait a full minute, switch it back on, and keep an eye on the display for another minute to see whether the code reappears.

Each code in this group sends you to a circuit board: F03 and F04 to the electronic oven control, F1 E7 and F1 E9 to the appliance control board, and 1C31 through 1C8C to the oven control, with the harness feeding that board as the other suspect.

For F1 the Whirlpool wall oven table calls for the power to be cut, or the oven unplugged, and a new electronic oven control fitted. The KitchenAid table also lists the electronic oven control board as the last part on the sensor, door and communication codes.

If a replacement board causes F6/E5 on a KitchenAid oven, follow the instructions with the new board to program the oven size.

1C31, 1C32, 1C4C, 1C6C, 1C7C, 1C81, 1C82, 1C8C; 3D51; 4D31, 4D32; F03, F04, F06; F0 E0; F1 E7, F1 E9.

Electronic oven control (board).

Basic hand tools to open the control panel, and the model's parts list for the board number.

What do 1C31 to 1C8C mean on a wall oven? Whirlpool says a problem with the oven control or the associated wiring; the older Sears range tables read most of them as an electronic oven control fault.

How long should I leave the breaker off? Whirlpool says one minute.

Does this apply to Maytag, KitchenAid and JennAir wall ovens? Yes, on the same platform.

Turn off the breaker for the wall oven before you open the control panel, because the board is at line voltage and the cavity may still be hot

Do not swap control boards from another oven to test; boards are matched to the model and size

Whirlpool wall oven code 1D11, 1D12, 1D21, 1D22

The oven is running too hot in Bake, Broil or Clean

Let the oven cool completely.

Check the sensor and its wiring, then the elements, then the control. Power reset only (1 minute).

• A temperature sensor reading that says the oven is too hot: The code appears in Bake or Broil (1D11, 1D12) or in Clean (1D21, 1D22). Unplug the oven and test the sensor: a reading near 1080 ohms at 70 degrees F is healthy
• An element shorted to the cabinet: An element glows or heats when the oven is off. On the KitchenAid wall oven table, a heating element that stays warm with the oven switched off has shorted to the metal cabinet
• A visibly damaged bake or broil element: The oven overheats only when it is in use and never when off. Let the oven cool, then look for visible damage on the elements
• The electronic oven control: Sensor, wiring and elements all test good, yet the code keeps showing. The KitchenAid table says to replace the electronic oven control board if the elements are okay

These codes mean the oven read too hot, in Bake or Broil for the first pair and during Clean for the second. Cut the power and let the cavity cool to room temperature before touching anything.

Reconnect any loose wire on the oven temperature sensor, replace a damaged harness, and measure the sensor: if it is not 1080 ohms at 70 degrees F, replace it.

Replace a bake or broil element that heats when the oven is off (a short to the cabinet), or that is visibly damaged.

If the elements and the sensor are okay, the KitchenAid table says to replace the electronic oven control board; for the 1D codes Whirlpool names the oven temperature sensor, the control or the wiring.

1D11, 1D12, 1D21 or 1D22.

1080 ohms across the oven temperature sensor at 70 degrees F.

Oven temperature sensor; bake or broil element; electronic oven control.

What is a short to the cabinet? An element that leaks current to the metal cabinet, heating even with the oven off.

Turn off the breaker at once if an element heats with the oven off; that is a short to the cabinet

Do not run a self-clean cycle after an over-temperature code until the cause is found and fixed

Whirlpool wall oven code 3D11, 3D12, 3D21, 3D22, F01, F02, F3 E0, F3 E1, F3 E2, F3 E3, F3 E5, F3 E6, F3 E7, F3 E8, F3 E9

An oven temperature sensor (upper, lower or cavity) is open, shorted or out of range

Unplug the oven and check the sensor wiring.

Measure the sensor and replace it only if it is out of range. Power reset only (1 minute).

• A loose or damaged sensor harness: The code appears after the oven was serviced or the panel moved. Power off first, then push the temperature sensor's wire harness back on if it has worked loose, and fit a new harness if the insulation is damaged
• An open or shorted temperature sensor circuit (F3 E0, F3 E1): The oven will not heat or heats without control. The Whirlpool table reads F3/E0 as open and F3/E1 as shorted; measure the sensor
• The upper or the lower oven sensor on a double oven: The fault is on only one cavity of the double oven. Whirlpool names the upper oven temperature sensor for F3 E0 and the lower for F3 E1, and the KitchenAid table gives the same split
• A temperature reading that says the oven is over 575 or 950 degrees (F3 E2, F3 E3): The oven shuts off in Bake or Clean and shows the code. The Whirlpool table says F3/E2 is over 575 degrees F in Bake and F3/E3 over 950 degrees F in Clean
• The electronic oven control: The sensor and harness both test good on the meter. Both tables put the electronic oven control next, once the sensor reading and the harness check out

Whirlpool's F3 E0 and F3 E1 wall oven pages name the upper or lower oven temperature sensor, the control or the wiring, and give a one-minute breaker reset.

The tables say to disconnect power or unplug the oven, reconnect any loose wire on the sensor and replace the wire harness if damaged.

Measure the sensor resistance with a volt/ohm meter: the Whirlpool wall oven table and the KitchenAid table both say it should read 1080 ohms at room temperature (70 degrees F); if it does not, replace that sensor (upper or lower). Two other repair sources give the same figure.

If the sensor and its harness are okay, replace the electronic oven control (or control board on the KitchenAid).

3D11, 3D12, 3D21, 3D22; F01, F02; F3 E0, F3 E1, F3 E2, F3 E3, F3 E5 to F3 E9.

1080 ohms across an oven temperature sensor at room temperature (70 degrees F).

Upper or lower oven temperature sensor; wire harness; electronic oven control.

What do F3 E0 and F3 E1 mean on a wall oven? Whirlpool names the upper oven temperature sensor (F3 E0) or the lower oven temperature sensor (F3 E1), the control and the wiring. The Whirlpool table calls them open and shorted sensor circuits.

What do 3D11 to 3D22 and F01 and F02 mean? Whirlpool names the oven temperature sensor, the control or the wiring.

Let the oven cool and turn off the breaker before you reach in for the sensor; it is a probe in the cavity wall

Do not bypass the sensor or tape the connector; an oven without a working sensor can overheat

Whirlpool wall oven code 4D21, 4D22, 4D41, 4D42, F8 E0, F8 E1, F8 E2, F8 E3, F8 E4, F8 E5

An oven cooling fan is running too slowly or too fast, is blocked, or its air temperature sensor failed

Listen for the fan and check the vents.

Clear the airflow restriction, then check the fan wiring and replace the fan. Power reset only (1 minute).

• An airflow restriction: The fan runs slowly or the vents are covered. Whirlpool names an airflow restriction first; check that nothing blocks the oven or cabinet vents
• An oven cooling fan running too slowly (4D21, 4D22) or too fast (4D41, 4D42): The code names the fan speed as too low or too high. Listen to the fan while the oven bakes and compare its speed with normal
• The upper or lower oven fan on a double oven (F8 E0, F8 E1): Only one cavity of the double oven reports the code. Whirlpool names the upper oven cooling fan for F8 E0 and the lower for F8 E1
• An exhaust fan air temperature sensor (F8 E4): The fan runs normally and the same code stays on the display. Whirlpool names the exhaust fan air temperature sensor or its wiring

Cut the breaker for sixty seconds as Whirlpool advises, restore it, and watch the oven display for a minute.

Whirlpool names an airflow restriction as the first possible cause; check the vents and the space around the oven.

With the oven cool and the breaker off, check the cooling fan and its wiring for a loose connector; Whirlpool names the fan or its wiring for every code on this page.

Whirlpool publishes no repair beyond the reset, so a fan that does not run, or an exhaust sensor fault, is for a technician.

4D21, 4D22, 4D41, 4D42; F8 E0, F8 E1, F8 E2, F8 E3, F8 E4, F8 E5.

Oven cooling fan; exhaust fan air temperature sensor; wiring.

A flashlight.

Turn off the oven and the breaker if the cabinet is hot to the touch or smells of burning; the fan protects the controls

Unplug or switch off the breaker before you reach for a fan or its wiring

Whirlpool wall oven code 4D11, 4D12, 4D51, 4D52, 9D11, 9D12, 9D21, 9D22, 9D31, 9D32, 9D41, 9D42, 9D51, 9D52, 9D61, 9D62, F05, F5, F5 E0, F5 E1, F5 E2, F5 E3, F5 E4, F5 E5, F5 E7

The oven door latch, its switch or their wiring reported a fault

Open and close the door and see whether the oven light follows it.

Check the latch wiring, then replace the door switch or the latch assembly. Power reset only (1 minute).

• Door switch and latch switch out of step: The cavity light ignores the door, or one of the F5 E0 or 4D11 to 4D52 codes shows. Swing the door open and shut and watch the light; if it never changes, the Whirlpool table blames the door switch
• A self-clean latch that will not lock or unlock (F5 E1): The latch does not move at the start or end of a Clean cycle. on the door lock assembly harness and check the assembly for damage
• A lower oven latch fault on a double oven (F5 E3, F5 E4): Only the lower oven of a double oven reports the code. Whirlpool names the lower oven door latch assembly, the door switch or the wiring for F5 E3
• A door that will not seal (F5 E5): A Clean cycle does not reach temperature within 30 minutes. Whirlpool names the door hinges or gasket where the oven has not reached self-clean temperature after 30 minutes
• The electronic oven control (KitchenAid): The switches, lock and harness are all okay and the code stays. The KitchenAid table says to replace the electronic oven control board if the door parts are okay

The Whirlpool table for F5/E0 says to open and close the door and see whether the oven light turns on and off; if the switch is defective, replace it.

With the oven unplugged or the breaker off, press any loose connector on the door lock assembly harness back into place and fit a new harness where the wires are damaged.

Check the door lock assembly for visible damage and replace it if broken. The KitchenAid table gives the same order for F5/E0 and F5/E1, and adds the control board as the last part.

Look at the door hinges and gasket if a Clean cycle does not reach temperature within 30 minutes.

4D11, 4D12, 4D51, 4D52; 9D11 to 9D62; F05, F5; F5 E0 to F5 E5, F5 E7.

Oven door switch; oven door lock assembly; wire harness; electronic oven control (KitchenAid).

A screwdriver or nut driver; the oven light as the switch test.

Can I use Clean mode meanwhile? Better not: with a lock fault the door may stay locked, or release too early, in the middle of a Clean cycle.

Do not force a locked oven door during a Clean cycle; the cavity is far above cooking temperature

Turn off the breaker and let the oven cool before you touch the lock assembly

Whirlpool wall oven code Call Service, Press Cancel to Reset, Feature Not Available, Fault Detected

The control detected a fault or a key sequence it could not run

Press Cancel to clear the display.

Reset the power; arrange service if the message returns. Power reset only (1 minute).

• A passing fault that the control cleared by itself: Call Service flashes up one time and disappears after Cancel is pressed. Press Cancel, as Whirlpool says
• A fault that returns: Call Service shows again soon after you press Cancel. Cut the breaker for a minute, switch it on and start a bake cycle
• A cook function the control could not run: A message scrolls while you program a cook cycle. Follow the directions on the display, such as PRESS ENTER TO TRY AGAIN

The control puts up Call Service whenever it detects a fault or error, and Whirlpool's first move is to press Cancel and see whether it clears.

Should the message remain after Cancel, switch the breaker off for sixty seconds, switch it on, begin a bake cycle and watch the oven for a minute.

For Feature Not Available or Fault Detected, follow the displayed directions, such as PRESS ENTER TO TRY AGAIN or DISABLE POWER TO CLEAR.

Call Service, Press Cancel to Reset, Feature Not Available, Fault Detected.

None.

None.

What does Feature Not Available mean? A scrolling prompt that appears if the control finds a fault while a cook cycle is being set up.

Turn off the breaker before you open the control panel

Arrange service if Call Service shows again after the power reset

Whirlpool wall oven code F1, F2, F3, F6

A two-digit code from an older control; the sources name the oven temperature sensor, the oven control or the door latch

Reset the power for a minute and note which code returns.

Use the sensor, control or door page for the component the code names. Power reset only (1 minute).

• A short code from an older control: The display shows only F1, F2, F3 or F6 with nothing after it. Check the code's row below for what each source says it means
• A failed electronic oven control (F1): The control faults the moment power returns at start-up. Per the Whirlpool wall oven table, cut the power or unplug the oven and swap in a new electronic oven control
• A temperature sensor fault or an overheating cavity (F2, F3): The oven either runs far too hot or fails to heat. Test the sensor as on the sensor page

Switch the breaker off for a full minute, then on again, and watch whether the code comes back.

Whirlpool's own pages point these codes at the oven temperature sensor, the oven control or the door latch, whereas the older Sears wall oven table calls F1 a failed electronic oven control.

The sensor, door and control pages here carry the tests, and the parts each code names.

F1, F2, F3, F6 (two-digit).

Electronic oven control.

None for the checks.

Keep the oven switched off while a temperature or door fault is showing

Whirlpool wall oven code F6 E0, F6 E1, F6 E2, F6 E3, F6 E4, F6 E5, F6 E6, F6 E9, F6 EA, F1 E1

An appliance manager, converter or user interface board lost communication

Reset the power and see whether the code returns.

Check the harnesses between the boards, then replace the board Whirlpool names. Power reset only (1 minute).

• A lost link between the user interface and the control (F6/E0 on the KitchenAid table): The display is blank or frozen and the code is F6 E0. The KitchenAid table says there is no communication between the user interface and the electronic oven control board
• An appliance manager or converter control fault (F6 E1, F6 E4, F6 E6, F6 E9): The code names a manager on a double or combination oven. Whirlpool names the appliance manager control, the converter control, or the upper, lower or microwave appliance manager
• A control panel assembly or user interface fault (F6 E5, F6 EA): The touch panel misbehaves or ignores touches from time to time. Whirlpool names the control panel assembly or the user interface sensing an over-temperature condition
• A mismatched interface or board (KitchenAid F6/E4): The code appeared right after a board was replaced. The KitchenAid table says an incorrect user interface or control board was installed; replace the incompatible part with the correct one

Following Whirlpool, switch the breaker off for 60 seconds, then back on, and observe the display for a minute.

The KitchenAid table says to reconnect any loose wires on the electronic oven control board and the user interface and replace the harness if it is damaged.

For a KitchenAid F6/E0, if the wiring is okay replace the user interface, and if the problem persists replace the electronic oven control board.

For a mismatch, compare the part numbers of the user interface and the control board against the model's parts list.

F6 E0, F6 E1, F6 E2, F6 E3, F6 E4, F6 E5, F6 E6, F6 E9, F6 EA; F1 E1.

Appliance manager; converter control; user interface; control panel assembly; electronic oven control board; wire harness.

A screwdriver or nut driver.

What do F6 E5 and F6 EA mean? The control panel assembly (F6 E5) and the user interface sensing an over-temperature condition (F6 EA).

Turn off the breaker before you open the control panel or reach the harness between boards

Do not swap boards from another oven to test; the boards are matched to the model

Whirlpool wall oven code F7 E0, F7 E1, F7 E2, F7 E3, F7 E4

The steam oven's water level, boiler sensor, filter or conductivity sensor reported a fault

Check the water reservoir and filter.

Reset the power; arrange service for the component the code names. Power reset only (1 minute).

• The water level or water level sensor (F7 E0): A steam cycle stops with F7 E0 and the reservoir looks low. Whirlpool names the water level, the water level sensor or the wiring
• The water boiler temperature sensor (F7 E1): A steam cycle will not heat the boiler at all. Whirlpool names the water boiler temperature sensor or the wiring
• The water filter (F7 E3): Steam output is weak or the filter is clogged. Whirlpool names the water filter as the part involved
• The water conductivity sensor (F7 E4): The oven complains about the water quality during a steam cycle. Whirlpool names the water conductivity sensor or the wiring

Make sure the reservoir is filled to the fill line with the right water, and check the water filter the code names for F7 E3.

Shut the oven's breaker for one minute, turn it back on, then keep watching the oven for a minute as Whirlpool recommends.

For the water level sensor, boiler temperature sensor and conductivity sensor Whirlpool publishes no repair beyond the reset; a code that returns needs a technician.

F7 E0, F7 E1, F7 E2, F7 E3, F7 E4.

Water level sensor; water boiler temperature sensor; water filter; water conductivity sensor.

Which models have these? Wall ovens with a steam function.

Does this apply to Maytag, KitchenAid and JennAir steam ovens? Yes, on the same platform.

Turn off the breaker before you open any panel near the boiler, and let the unit cool; the boiler holds hot water and steam

Arrange service for any code that returns after the reset

Whirlpool wall oven code FC E1, FC E2, FC E3, FC E4, FC E5, FC E6, FC E7, FC E8, FC E9, Registration Error

The Wi-Fi module could not connect, or the module, its antenna or its power module has a fault

Check that the router is on and in range and that the SAID number was typed correctly.

Reset the power, then check the module and its wiring. Whirlpool documents these checks for this code: re-set your wireless router; and does another Wi-Fi capable device operate correctly.

• The oven is not getting through to the home router (FC E1, FC E2, FC E3): A connection code appears on the oven display and the phone app lists no oven. Whirlpool's list runs from a timed-out connection and a weak signal to a dead router, the Wi-Fi module or its wiring
• A Wi-Fi antenna or its wiring (FC E4, FC E5): The signal is weak even next to the router. Whirlpool names the Wi-Fi antenna or the associated wiring
• The Wi-Fi power module (FC E6, FC E9): The module never powers up and the app never sees it. Whirlpool names the Wi-Fi power module or the wiring
• A mistake while pairing the oven (FC E8, Registration Error): The error pops up partway through adding the oven to the app. Whirlpool points to a mistyped SAID number, or to the wrong appliance type or model picked in the app

FC E1 and FC E2 mean the oven never reached the router, so check that the router has power, that the oven is within its range and that the router itself is online.

Turn the breaker off for one minute, restore power, start a cycle and monitor the appliance for one minute.

Work down Whirlpool's registration list: the home network must be online, the phone or tablet must be connected, no firewall should block the oven, the SAID number must be typed exactly, and the appliance type and model must be the right ones. A second-hand oven also needs the ownership transfer steps.

For FC E4, FC E5, FC E6 and FC E9 Whirlpool publishes no repair beyond the reset.

Whirlpool specifies a 1 minute power interruption for this code, not an arbitrary one.

FC E1 to FC E9; Registration Error.

Wi-Fi module; Wi-Fi antenna; Wi-Fi power module.

None; the SAID number from the app.

Will the oven still cook? Those Wi-Fi codes only affect the connected features, and baking runs independently.

Unplug the oven at the breaker before you look at any module inside the cabinet

Phone Whirlpool's connected appliance line about a suspected module fault; do not take the oven apart

Whirlpool wall oven code Locked, Lock, Loc

The control and oven door are locked

Unlock with the sequence in the manual.

Turn the lock off; the oven itself is fine. The one documented check: unlock the Oven Control and Oven Door.

• The control lock is on: Locked, Lock or LOC shows and the pads do nothing. Whirlpool says the lock shuts down the control pads and locks the oven door to avoid unintended use
• The lock was switched on by accident: Nobody remembers turning the lock on, yet the pads are dead. Whirlpool says the lock is preset unlocked, so someone set it
• A lock that will not release: The documented unlock sequence does nothing when you follow it. Reset the power at the breaker for one minute and try again

Whirlpool says to refer to the owner's manual for the unlock sequence; the controls and door cannot be locked while the oven is in use.

Turn the breaker off for one minute, turn it on, and monitor the oven for one minute to make sure the code does not display again.

Start a short bake to confirm the oven responds to the controls and that the door releases normally at the end.

Whirlpool specifies a 1 minute power interruption for this code, not an arbitrary one.

Locked, Lock, Loc.

Is the oven broken? No; the lock is preset unlocked and is a feature.

Arrange service if the lock will not release after the reset

Whirlpool wall oven code Probe, Insert Probe, 3D31, 3D32, 3D41, F3 E4

The control is looking for the meat probe and cannot read it

Push the probe fully into its receptacle and into the food.

Check the receptacle, harness and probe resistance. The one documented check: verify meat probe is fully inserted in meat probe jack.

• A meat probe not fully seated in its jack: Probe or Insert Probe shows and the oven will not start a probe cycle. Push the probe plug all the way into the jack; Whirlpool says the control is looking for an input from the probe
• A probe not in the food: The probe is seated but not in the meat. Insert the probe into the center of the thickest part of the food, away from bone
• A dislocated probe or roll-out rack power attachment (F3 E4): F3 E4 shows while the probe or a powered rack was in use. Whirlpool says the meat probe may be dislocated or the power attachment unplugged; push a roll-out rack firmly in until a tone sounds
• A shorted or defective probe (F4 E1, KitchenAid F3/E3): The code returns even with the probe fully seated in the jack. The Whirlpool table says the probe should measure about 59,000 ohms at room temperature; the KitchenAid table lists the probe jack, harness and probe in order

Whirlpool says to verify the meat probe is fully inserted in the meat probe jack or receptacle, whose location varies by model.

For F3 E4 Whirlpool says to roll out the rack, ensure the power attachment is in the correct location, and firmly push the roll-out into the oven until a tone sounds.

The Whirlpool wall oven table says to unplug the oven and the probe, and measure the probe with a volt/ohm meter: it should read about 59,000 ohms at room temperature; if not, replace the probe.

If the probe is okay, check the jack for a firm connection, reconnect a loose jack harness and replace a damaged harness or a worn jack; the KitchenAid table then names the electronic oven control board.

Whirlpool specifies a 1 minute power interruption for this code, not an arbitrary one.

Probe, Insert Probe; 3D31, 3D32, 3D41; F3 E4; F4 E1.

About 59,000 ohms across the meat probe at room temperature.

Meat probe; probe jack; wire harness; electronic oven control (KitchenAid).

What resistance should the probe read? About 59,000 ohms at room temperature.

Can I use the oven probe in the microwave? No; Whirlpool says the oven and microwave probes have different resistance values.

Unplug the wall oven before you measure the probe or touch the receptacle harness

Do not use a probe with a bent tip or frayed cable; it can short and shut the oven down

Whirlpool wall oven code PUSH, PSH, Flashing Time, Clock, 12:00, Power Loss, Enter Time

The oven is waiting for you to press Start, or a power cut has left the clock unset

After picking a function, press Start inside five seconds.

Enter the time of day; a message that stays needs the breaker cycled. The one documented check: press Start.

• Start was missed: PUSH or PSH appears once a function has been picked. Whirlpool says to press Start inside five seconds
• Power dropped out: The clock blinks, or the display reads 12:00 or POWER LOSS. Whirlpool says to press Cancel and then enter the correct time of day
• A message that sticks: PSH remains lit even though Start was pressed. Switch the breaker off for one minute, then back on

Start is the pad that begins every oven function; leave it for 5 seconds after choosing one and PUSH or PSH appears, and the function is dropped altogether if Start waits more than a minute after the last keypad press.

On first power-up, and again after any outage, the display reads Time, 12:00 or POWER LOSS; Cancel clears it, and then you enter the time of day.

Flip the breaker off for a minute, flip it back on and keep an eye on the oven for the next minute.

Whirlpool specifies a 1 minute power interruption for this code, not an arbitrary one.

PUSH, PSH; flashing Time, Clock, 12:00, Power Loss, Enter Time.

Arrange service if the message returns after the power reset

Whirlpool wall oven code Sabbath, Sab, 5Ab, 5A7, Sabbath Mode

Sabbath Mode is on

Switch Sabbath Mode off by the steps in the owner's manual.

Keep it off whenever you want the oven to behave normally. The one documented check: what is Sabbath Mode.

• Sabbath Mode got switched on: The display reads Sabbath, Sab, 5A6 or 5Ab and Bake is the only function that runs. Whirlpool explains that the oven stays in a bake setting until the mode is cancelled, with every other cooking and cleaning cycle locked out
• Silence mistaken for a fault: Opening the door brings no light and no beep. Whirlpool says that in this mode the tones stay quiet and the cavity light ignores both the door and the light switch
• Sabbath Mode was enabled in the settings: The mode is available on an oven that had it disabled. Refer to the owner's manual for how to disable Sabbath Mode

Whirlpool says to refer to your owner's manual for the sequence that cancels Sabbath Mode.

Only the Bake cycle operates, no tones sound, the display does not indicate temperature changes, and the oven light and heating elements do not respond to the door immediately.

When the documented cancel sequence fails, flip the breaker off for a short while, restore power and run the whole sequence again from the beginning.

Sabbath, Sab, 5A6, 5Ab, 5A7.

Watch that Sabbath Mode is not left active by accident, since the oven keeps baking until the mode is turned off