Whirlpool top-load washer error codes

Whirlpool top-load washer code F0 E0, F3 E3, F6 E1

Whirlpool publishes a page for each of these codes but states no cause

Write down the code and the point in the cycle where it appeared.

Disconnect power for 5 minutes and restart; arrange service if it returns.

• A one-off control glitch: The code appears once and clears after a reset. Unplug the washer for 5 minutes and restart
• A recurring control or wiring fault: The code returns again after a five-minute power reset. Record the exact point in the cycle where it appears, then arrange service
• A code Whirlpool publishes without a cause: Whirlpool's page lists only a five-minute reset and no cause. Treat any specific cause you find elsewhere as unverified until a technician confirms it

Write down the exact display and the step of the cycle where it appeared before you reset.

Whirlpool's documented step is to unplug the washer for 5 minutes, then restore power and restart the cycle from the beginning.

Whirlpool publishes no cause for these codes, so a code that returns is for a technician.

Whirlpool publishes no cause for F0 E0, F3 E3 or F6 E1, so the most useful thing you can bring to a technician is the exact code and whether it appeared at power-up, during the fill, in the wash or in the spin.

F0 E0, F3 E3 or F6 E1.

None by Whirlpool.

None.

Why is there no repair? Neither Whirlpool nor the service tables give a cause, so any specific cause elsewhere is unverified.

Are the other F6 codes different? F6 E2 and F6 E3 have a communication cause on the service table; see their page.

Why not guess a part? Neither Whirlpool nor the service tables name a part for these three codes, and replacing a board on a guess is the most expensive way to be wrong.

Do F0 E0, F3 E3 and F6 E1 relate to F6 E2 and F6 E3? Only by family. F6 E2 and F6 E3 have a stated communication cause on the 2015 Cabrio table; F6 E1 does not, so it stays here.

Unplug the washer before you open the console

Arrange service if the code returns after the reset

Whirlpool top-load washer code F1 E1

The main electronic control board reported an internal fault

Unplug the washer for 5 minutes and restore power.

Replace the main electronic control board only if the code comes straight back. The one documented check: cycle power to the control to reset the washer.

• A one-off fault in the main control's memory or logic: F1 E1 appears once and clears after a reset. Unplug the washer for 5 minutes, restore power and run a cycle
• A failing main electronic control board: The code returns straight away after a full five-minute reset. The tables say to replace the board if F1 E1 returns after power is restored
• A loose wiring connection on the board: The code appears right after the top panel was lifted. Check the wiring connections on the board in the console

The 2015 Cabrio table says to reset the control board by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes and restoring power.

The Cabrio/belt-drive table says to check the wiring connections on the main electronic control board in the console.

If F1 E1 returns after power is restored, both tables say to replace the main electronic control board.

After the reset or the board replacement, run a complete cycle from fill to final spin. A control fault that has been cleared lets the washer finish; if F1 E1 comes back at the same point in the cycle, note that point for the technician.

Whirlpool specifies a 5 minutes power interruption for this code, not an arbitrary one.

Main electronic control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver.

Does Whirlpool publish a cause? Whirlpool's page for the code only gives the 5-minute reset; the tables give the board.

Is the board the only part? Yes, the tables name only the main electronic control board.

Will a reset always fix it? It fixes a one-off. A code that returns after a reset needs the board.

Why does Whirlpool give only a reset for F1 E1? Whirlpool's top-load index has no separate F1 E1 page that states a cause; its guidance for the family is the 5-minute power reset. The cause and the board come from the Sears service tables.

What should I photograph before I call? The display showing F1 E1, the model and serial label under the lid, and the point in the cycle where the code appeared, so the technician can bring the right board.

Do not replace the board before a 5-minute reset and a wiring check

Whirlpool top-load washer code F1 E2

The motor-control circuit on the main control board reported a fault

Turn the basket impeller by hand with the washer unplugged.

Free any drive restriction; if the basket turns freely, check the motor wiring and then the control board. The one documented check: cycle power to the control to reset the washer.

• A restriction in the drive system: The basket impeller does not turn freely by hand. Unplug the washer, open the lid and spin the impeller; it should rotate freely
• Loose motor or board wiring: The impeller turns freely and the code appears when the motor should start turning. Check the drive motor wiring and the wiring on the main control board
• A failing main electronic control board: The wiring is sound and the drive spins freely by hand. The tables say to replace the board if the drive turns freely

The 2015 Cabrio table says to check the main electronic control board wiring and the drive motor wiring, and reconnect any loose wires.

Open the lid and spin the impeller inside the basket. It should rotate freely; if it does not, remove the restriction in the drive system.

The Cabrio/belt-drive table says to check the drive motor windings for resistance; replace the motor if it is bad.

If the motor, its wiring and the drive are all sound, replace the main electronic control board as the final part on the list.

Whirlpool specifies a 5 minutes power interruption for this code, not an arbitrary one.

Main electronic control board; drive motor.

A screwdriver or nut driver and a multimeter for the motor windings.

Is it the motor or the board? Check the drive and the motor first; the board is the last part on the list.

What should the impeller do? It should rotate freely by hand.

Unplug the washer before you turn the impeller or open the console

Do not replace the main board until the drive has been proved free

Whirlpool top-load washer code F2 E1, F2 E2

A key on the control panel has been read as pressed for too long

Press each key firmly and release it, and dry the panel if liquid has run onto it.

Replace the user interface control only if a key stays stuck.

• A key on the user interface stuck or held down: One button never releases and the code shows soon after power-up. Press each key firmly and release; a key that stays pressed is the fault
• Liquid or residue under the keypad: The panel was recently wiped or splashed and keys behave erratically. Dry the panel with the washer unplugged and try again
• A failed user interface control: No key is stuck and the code still shows. Replace only after the keys and the panel have been proved clean and free

The 2015 Cabrio table says to attempt to release the stuck button. The Cabrio/belt-drive table says the code is for digital-display models and appears when one or more keys were actuated for fifteen seconds or longer.

Whirlpool names the keypad on its F2 E2 page. Unplug the washer, dry the panel and try again.

Both tables say the user interface control needs replacing if the key cannot be freed.

F2 E1 or F2 E2.

User interface control.

A dry cloth; a screwdriver for the console if the control has to be replaced.

Does it apply to all models? The Cabrio/belt-drive table says F2 E1 is for models with a digital display.

Which part fixes it? The user interface control, if the key cannot be freed.

Is a reset enough? A power reset may clear a one-off, but a key that is truly stuck will bring the code back.

Unplug the washer before you dry a wet console, because water at the board is a shock risk

Stop if the panel is warm or smells burnt and have the board inspected

Whirlpool top-load washer code F2 E3, F1 E3

The main control board and the user interface control do not match

Compare the part number of each board against the washer's model number.

Order the correct board for the model; a mismatch appears after one board is swapped.

• A replacement user interface control that does not match the main control board: The code appears right after a board was replaced. Compare the part numbers on the new board and the old board against the model's parts list
• A replacement main control board that does not match the user interface: The washer worked before a board swap and the code appears after. Check the model number against the board's part number
• A failing user interface or harness: No parts were changed recently and the code still appears. Check the harness between the console and the board and reseat both ends

The 2015 Cabrio table says the code appears when the wrong user interface control or main board is installed. If a board was replaced recently, that board is the suspect.

Order the correct user interface control or main electronic control board for the model of washer. The tables say this is the fix, not a further part.

If nothing was replaced, unplug the washer and check the connector between the console and the board for a loose or bent pin.

F2 E3 (F1 E3 on the 2015 Cabrio table).

User interface control; main electronic control board (the correct one for the model).

A screwdriver or nut driver, and the model's parts list.

Does Whirlpool say the same? Whirlpool's F2 E3 page says there may be an issue with the appliance control unit, user interface or associated wiring, and gives a 5-minute reset.

Do I need to replace both boards? No. Order the correct part for the model; the tables name the board or control you fitted.

Can the washer work with a mismatched board? Not reliably; the code is the control telling you the pair is wrong.

Do not keep swapping boards to see which one clears it; order the board listed for the model number

Whirlpool top-load washer code F2 E4, F2 E5

The user interface control failed or lost its connection to the main control board

Unplug the washer and check the harness between the console and the main board.

Reseat or replace the harness, then replace the user interface control if the code returns.

• A loose connection between the console and the main board: The console goes blank or F2 E4 appears after the top was lifted. With the washer unplugged, reseat the harness at both ends
• A failed user interface control: The harness is sound and the code is there on every power-up. The 2015 Cabrio table says to replace the user interface control if the harness connection is okay
• A control that has failed outright: F2 E5 shows and the console is completely dead. The table says F2 E5 needs the user interface control replaced

The 2015 Cabrio table says to open the console and check the wire harness connection between the main electronic control board and the user interface control.

Reconnect a loose harness. Whirlpool's F2 E4 page also says there may be an issue with the user interface or its wiring and asks for a 5-minute power reset.

If the harness is okay, the table says to replace the user interface control; for F2 E5 it says to unplug the washer and replace it.

After the harness or control is replaced, press each key once and run a short cycle. The console should respond to every key and the cycle should finish without F2 E4 or F2 E5 returning.

User interface control; wire harness.

A screwdriver or nut driver for the console.

Should I replace the main board? The tables name the user interface control, not the main board.

Will a power reset help? Whirlpool asks for a 5-minute reset first; a code that returns is a real fault.

Is the harness a separate part? Yes; replace a damaged harness before the control.

Which board is the user interface control? It is the console board with the keys and display, separate from the main electronic control board that runs the motor, water valve and lid lock.

Should I replace both boards? No. The service table names the user interface control first, and a wire harness before it if the harness is damaged.

Stop if you see a burnt or melted connector and have the board looked at

Whirlpool top-load washer code F6 E2, F6 E3

The user interface control and the main control board lost communication

Check the harness between the console and the main board for a loose end.

Replace a damaged harness, then the user interface control, and the main board last.

• A harness between the console and the main board that has come loose: The code appears after the top was lifted or the washer moved. Reseat both ends of the harness with the washer unplugged
• A damaged harness: A wire looks chafed or a connector is cracked. Replace the harness; the 2015 Cabrio table says to replace it if damaged
• A failed user interface control or main board: The harness is sound and the same code stays on the display. The table says to replace the user interface control, then the main board if the problem persists

The 2015 Cabrio table says the code signals a communication failure between the user interface control and the main electronic control board. Unplug the washer and check the harness between them.

at both ends and replace the harness between the console and the main board if it is damaged.

The table says to replace the user interface control and, if the problem persists, the main electronic control board.

After the harness or a board is replaced, run a short cycle. A washer that reboots in the middle of a cycle, as Whirlpool describes for F6 E2 and F6 E3, should now finish without restarting.

Wire harness; user interface control; main electronic control board.

Which part first? The harness, then the user interface control, then the main board.

Will a reset help? Whirlpool asks for a 5-minute reset first.

Are the two codes the same? They share one row on the table and one fix.

What does a washer reboot alert look like? Whirlpool describes F6 E2 and F6 E3 as washer reboot alerts: the control restarts itself and shows the code, which fits a lost link between the console and the main board.

Should I replace the main board first? No. The service table puts the harness first, then the user interface control, and the main board last.

Do not replace the main board before the harness and the user interface have been checked

Whirlpool top-load washer code F7 E2, F7 E6, F7 E8

The drive motor failed to run when the control called for it, its circuit is faulty, or it overheated

Unplug the washer and turn the basket impeller by hand.

Free any restriction, check the motor harness, then replace the motor and finally the main control board.

• A restricted drive system: The impeller does not turn freely by hand and the motor hums, trips or overheats. With the washer unplugged, open the lid and spin the impeller; it should rotate freely, and a drag points at friction from an item wedged between the basket and the tub
• Loose or damaged wiring between the motor and the control board: The motor never starts (F7 E2) or its circuit is reported faulty (F7 E6) and the impeller turns freely. Check the harness connections between the drive motor and the main electronic control board and reconnect any loose wire
• A failed drive motor: Wiring and drive are sound and the motor still does not run, or it overheats with nothing dragging (F7 E8). The service tables say to replace the drive motor when the basket spins freely and the harness is sound; a defective drive motor will overheat
• A water level too low for the cycle, which strains the motor (F7 E8): The tub level looks low for the load and the motor runs hot. The 2015 Cabrio table says the water level and load size detection may need calibrating; run the Service Calibration in the Service Test Mode
• The main control board: A new motor does not clear the code on the display. The 2015 Cabrio table says to replace the main electronic control board if the problem persists

Whirlpool's F7 E2 page says there may be an issue with the appliance control unit, user interface or wiring and asks for a 5-minute power reset. A one-off clears; a code that returns is a real fault.

The 2015 Cabrio table says to unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the drive motor and the main board, and to spin the impeller, which should rotate freely. and replace a damaged harness.

If the impeller does not turn freely, remove the restriction in the drive system. Mechanical friction from items stuck between the spin basket and the tub is also what the table blames for an overheated motor (F7 E8).

For F7 E8 the table says the water level and load size detection may need calibrating if the level is too low for the selected cycle. Run the Service Calibration in the Service Test Mode; the tech sheet stored in the console gives the entry procedure.

If the basket spins freely and the harness is sound, replace the drive motor; a defective drive motor will overheat. If the problem persists after a new motor, replace the main electronic control board.

Drive motor; wire harness; main electronic control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver, and a multimeter for the motor windings.

Why do two sources differ? Whirlpool's page is a general description and a reset; the service tables give the drive checks and the parts.

Unplug the washer and let the motor cool before you turn the impeller, open the console or touch the motor

Do not replace the motor and the board together; the tables order the parts one after the other, and stop if you smell hot insulation

Whirlpool top-load washer code F7 E7

The motor could not reach its target speed

Look for anything wedged between the spin basket and the tub.

Remove the obstruction, balance and level the washer, and replace the suspension springs or the motor if they are at fault. Whirlpool documents these checks for this code: did you receive an F7E7; and cycle power to the control to reset the washer.

• Something wedged between the basket and the tub: The basket drags or scrapes by hand and the motor cannot reach speed. Turn the basket by hand with the washer unplugged and feel for rubbing
• An unbalanced load or an unlevel cabinet: The code appears in the spin with a lopsided load. Balance the load, then level the washer with a level on top
• Weak suspension springs: The basket bounces more than once each time it is pushed. Push down firmly on the empty basket and count the bounces
• A harness or motor fault: Nothing else looks wrong and the code keeps returning. Check the harness at the motor; replace the motor if the harness is okay

The 2015 Cabrio table says mechanical friction from items stuck between the spin basket and the tub prevents the motor reaching target rpm; remove them.

The table says an unbalanced load can also cause F7 E7: distribute items evenly, level the cabinet and check the suspension springs.

With the washer empty, push down on the basket; if it bounces more than once, replace the springs. Check the harness between the drive motor and the main board.

The table says to replace the drive motor if the harness between the motor and the board is okay and the basket turns freely.

Whirlpool specifies a 5 minutes power interruption for this code, not an arbitrary one.

Drive motor; suspension springs; wire harness.

A level, a screwdriver or nut driver, and a flashlight.

Can a bad load cause it? Yes. The 2015 Cabrio table says an unbalanced load can cause F7 E7.

What is between the basket and tub? Small items such as socks and coins can wedge there and add friction.

Does Whirlpool's page give a cause? Whirlpool's page says there may be a control unit or wiring issue and asks for a 5-minute reset.

Unplug the washer before you reach between the basket and the tub

Do not run a spin with a load that is banging the cabinet

Whirlpool top-load washer code F7 E9

The motor rotor did not move when the control powered it, or the control reported a communication fault, depending on the platform

Turn the basket by hand with the washer unplugged.

Free anything jamming the basket; if nothing is jamming it, replace the drive motor. Whirlpool documents these checks for this code: did you receive an F7E9; and cycle power to the control to reset the washer.

• A locked rotor from an item between the basket and the tub: The motor hums and the basket does not move. Turn the basket by hand with the washer unplugged
• A failed drive motor: Nothing is jamming the basket and the motor does not turn. The 2015 Cabrio table says to replace the motor if nothing obstructs it
• A communication or wiring issue on connected models: Whirlpool describes the code as a main router or user interface issue on some models. Note whether the washer is a connected model with an app

Whirlpool's F7 E9 page says there may be an issue with the main router, user interface or associated wiring and asks for a 5-minute power reset.

The 2015 Cabrio table says a locked rotor means the motor does not move when activated; check for mechanical friction from items stuck between the spin basket and the tub and remove them.

The table says to replace the drive motor if there are no obstructions between the basket and the tub.

Whirlpool words F7 E9 as a main router or user interface issue, which points to a washer with connected features. Note whether yours has an app or Wi-Fi setup, because that tells the technician which control generation you have.

Whirlpool specifies a 5 minutes power interruption for this code, not an arbitrary one.

Drive motor.

Why two meanings? The two sources describe different generations of the control.

Should I reset first? Yes, Whirlpool asks for a 5-minute reset.

Why does one source say locked rotor and another say main router? They describe different control generations. The 2015 Cabrio table words F7 E9 as a locked rotor; Whirlpool's own page words it as a main router or user interface issue. The page does not merge them.

Which check is safe to do first? Unplug the washer and turn the basket by hand. A basket that moves freely rules out a jam, and the 5-minute reset is the next step.

Unplug the washer before you turn the basket

Do not force a jammed basket with the washer plugged in

Whirlpool top-load washer code Fd, LOC, LC, Int

A status message rather than a fault: factory default, Control Lock, or a paused or cancelled cycle

Confirm the washer otherwise runs normally.

Clear the setting the message reports; none of these needs a repair.

• Fd: the washer was returned to factory defaults: Fd shows for about 3 seconds and the washer returns to standby. Whirlpool describes the key sequence that produces Fd; check whether anyone pressed it or whether a board was just replaced
• LOC or LC: Control Lock is on: Buttons do nothing at all and LOC or LC shows. Look for a Control Lock key on the panel; a child or a pet may have pressed it
• Int: the cycle was paused or cancelled: Int shows after you pressed pause or cancel and the washer is still stopping. Whirlpool says the washer may take 20 to 30 minutes to stop spinning and drain, showing Int throughout

Fd, LOC, LC and Int are status messages, not faults. Whirlpool describes Fd as Factory Default, LOC or LC as Control Lock being active, and Int as a paused or cancelled cycle.

Touch the Control Lock button, or on older models use the button your owner's manual names; Whirlpool says some models require you to press and hold it.

Whirlpool says Int can show for 20 to 30 minutes while the washer stops spinning and drains. If it stays, press pause or cancel twice and power once, and if it still remains disconnect power for 5 minutes.

To return all options and modifiers to Factory Default Whirlpool gives this sequence: press Power/Cancel, select Drain & Spin, then press Extra Rinse, Fabric Softener, Extra Rinse, Fabric Softener within 5 seconds. The display shows Fd for 3 seconds and the washer returns to standby; set your options again afterwards.

Fd, LOC, LC or Int.

None.

None.

What does Fd mean? Whirlpool says Fd means Factory Default settings: the washer was returned to its factory defaults.

Are any of these a repair? No part is named for any of them.

Do Maytag and Amana washers show them? Yes, on models with the same seven-segment display.

Unplug the washer before you open the lid on a basket that is still spinning down

Call for service if any of these messages returns with no button pressed and the panel keeps ignoring input