Whirlpool dishwasher error codes

Whirlpool dishwasher code F1 E1

The control module reported a fault; on the older tables, a relay stuck on the electronic control board

Cycle power for 30 seconds and see whether the code returns.

Check the board wiring and the parts connected to it; replace the electronic control board only if the wiring and parts are sound. Power reset only (30 seconds).

• A one-off control fault that a reset clears: F1 E1 appears once and does not return after the power is off for a while. Cut the power for 30 seconds, as Whirlpool says for the current generation, or 5 minutes on the older tables, and run a cycle
• A stuck relay on the electronic control board (older tables): The code returns straight after the reset and the dishwasher misbehaves at the same point. The tables say to check the wiring connected to the control board for damage and to measure the resistance through every component connected to it, using the tech sheet as a guide
• A defective component connected to the board: One connected part reads out of range in the tech sheet test. Replace any defective component the resistance test finds before you touch the board
• The electronic control board itself: The wiring and every connected component test good and the code stays. The tables say to replace the electronic control board if the wiring and components are okay

Whirlpool's current page names the control module and asks for a 30-second power cycle: unplug the dishwasher, or turn its breaker off, for 30 seconds and restore power. The Sears table for the older MicroClean HE and Global HE units says to shut the power off for 5 minutes.

The older tables say the tech sheet is behind the bottom front toe panel of the dishwasher; it lists the resistance to expect through each part connected to the board.

If the code resumes after the reset, check the wiring on the control board for damage and repair any broken wire, then measure resistance through each connected component with the power off, using the tech sheet as the guide, and replace any defective one.

If the wiring and components are okay, replace the electronic control board (and its wiring harness if the table names it for your model).

F1 E1 (1-1 on the older tables).

Electronic control board; wiring harness.

A multimeter, a screwdriver or nut driver for the toe panel, and the tech sheet.

What does F1 E1 mean on a Whirlpool-built dishwasher? Whirlpool's current page names the control module. The Sears tables for the older MicroClean HE and Global HE units call it a stuck relay on the electronic control board.

Do I replace the board straight away? No. The tables say to test the wiring and connected components first.

Does this apply to KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana and JennAir dishwashers? Yes, on the same Whirlpool platform.

Turn off the power at the breaker or unplug the dishwasher before you open the toe panel or the control housing, because the board and its relays are at line voltage

Do not replace the control board before the wiring and connected parts have been tested, because a bad component can damage a new board

Whirlpool dishwasher code F2 E1, F5 E1, F5 E2

A key on the control panel reads as stuck, or the control did not see the door close or open

Press each key and close and open the door once.

Replace the user interface control or the door latch assembly only after the tests on this page.

• A key on the control panel that is stuck or held down: F2 E1 appears and one or more buttons do not respond. Press every button and see which one does not respond
• A failed user interface control: The drain pump runs when the interface harness is unplugged, as the test below describes. Run the test in the steps: if the drain pump runs with the interface disconnected, the interface control is the fault
• An electronic control board that still sees stuck keys: The drain pump does not run even with the interface unplugged. The table says to replace the electronic control board because it still detects stuck buttons with the interface unplugged
• A door that was not closed in time or not opened between cycles (F5 E1, F5 E2): The cycle will not start and the code is F5 E1 or F5 E2. Follow the door steps below before you replace the latch assembly

The older tables say to check all buttons on the user interface control for a response; whether one or more do not work decides the next test.

Unplug the dishwasher, disconnect the user interface control wire harness and reassemble the door with the harness disconnected, but do not close the door. Plug the dishwasher in, allow a 7-second minimum wait for the control board to power up, then close the door. If the board no longer sees stuck buttons it starts the drain pump.

If the drain pump runs, replace the user interface control. If it does not, the table says to replace the electronic control board because it still detects stuck buttons with the interface unplugged.

For F5 E1 the older table says the code appears if the door is not closed within a 4-second window after pressing Start/Resume, or if the latch assembly is broken; close the door inside that 4-second window, and replace the door latch assembly if the code continues after checking the harness. For F5 E2 the control expects the door to open between cycles; cancel, open and shut the door and start again, and replace the latch assembly if unplugging and replugging starts the cycle.

F2 E1, F5 E1 or F5 E2 (2-1, 5-1, 5-2 on the older tables).

User interface control; electronic control board; door latch assembly; wire harness.

A screwdriver or nut driver for the door panels.

How do I tell the interface from the board? Unplug the interface harness and power up; if the drain pump starts, the board is fine and the interface is at fault, per the older tables.

Do Maytag and KitchenAid dishwashers behave the same way? Yes, on the same platform.

Unplug the dishwasher before you disconnect the user interface harness or take the door apart

Do not run the interface test with the door closed and the harness unplugged unless the steps say to; follow the order exactly

Whirlpool dishwasher code F3 E1, F3 E2, F3 E3

The thermistor or OWI (optical water indicator) sensor is open, shorted or has failed to calibrate

Unplug the dishwasher and check the wiring to the thermistor/OWI sensor.

Repair a damaged harness, clean and recalibrate the OWI, then replace the sensor if the code stays.

• A loose or damaged harness to the thermistor/OWI sensor: F3 E1 or F3 E2 appears on a fill and the wiring is loose or chafed. Unplug the dishwasher and check the wiring between the electronic control board and the thermistor/OWI sensor
• A failed thermistor/OWI sensor: The wiring is undamaged and the same code returns. The tables say to replace the thermistor/OWI sensor if the wiring is okay
• A dirty or uncalibrated OWI (F3 E3): The code appears after cleaning or a part change, with dirty water in the tub. Run the Service Diagnostics Test in the tech sheet: low soil level should show during the OWI test
• A failed check valve in the drain hose letting dirty water flow back (F3 E3): Water backs up into the tub when you pour it through the drain hose. Disconnect the drain hose at the air gap or disposal and pour water through it; the table says a backflow means the hose portion at the pump is replaced

Whirlpool's current page for F3 E2 names the thermistor or OWI sensor and asks for a 30-second power cycle.

The tables say to unplug the dishwasher and check the wiring between the control board and the thermistor/OWI sensor; repair or replace the harness if it is broken. The thermistor is the water temperature sensor; the OWI is the Optical Water Indicator that detects the amount of debris in the water.

The older table says to disconnect the drain hose from the air gap or disposal and pour water through it; if water backs up into the tub, replace the portion of the drain hose that connects to the drain pump, because its check valve failed.

If no water backs up, run the Service Diagnostics Test from the tech sheet; low soil level should show during the OWI test. If it shows high soil level, unplug the dishwasher and clean the OWI sensor, plug back in, run the diagnostic test cycle so the board calibrates the sensor on the next cycle, run a normal wash, and replace the thermistor/OWI sensor only if the code persists.

Thermistor/OWI sensor; wire harness; drain hose.

A screwdriver or nut driver; a jug of water; the tech sheet.

What is an OWI? An Optical Water Indicator: it senses the amount of debris in the water.

How do I recalibrate the OWI? Run the diagnostic test cycle from the tech sheet; the control board calibrates the sensor on the next cycle.

Is the sensor sold separately? The tables name the thermistor/OWI sensor as one part with a wire harness.

Unplug the dishwasher before you check the sensor wiring

Do not pour water into the drain hose while the dishwasher is plugged in

Whirlpool dishwasher code F4 E2, F7 E1

The heating system reported a fault, or on the older tables the heating element does not work

Note whether the dishes come out wet or the water does not heat.

Inspect the element for visible damage and check its wiring before replacing it.

• A heating system fault that a reset clears: F4 E2 appears once and the dishes come out clean and dry afterward. Cut the power for 30 seconds, as Whirlpool says, and run a cycle
• A heating element that does not work (F7 E1, older tables): The water does not warm and the dishes come out wet or cold. Inspect the element for visible damage; the tables say to replace it if you find any
• Loose wiring between the control board and the heating element: The element looks intact but the water does not heat up. Unplug the dishwasher and check the wiring; reconnect loose wires or replace a damaged harness

Whirlpool's F4 E2 page names the heating system and asks for a 30-second power cycle; if the code returns, schedule service.

For F7 E1 the older tables say to inspect the heating element and replace it if you find visible damage.

If the element appears intact, unplug the dishwasher and check the wiring between the control board and the heating element; reconnect any loose wire or replace the harness if damaged.

If the wiring is intact, replace the heating element and run a short cycle to confirm the water heats.

F4 E2 (7-1 or F7 E1 on the older tables).

Heating element; wiring harness.

A screwdriver or nut driver for the lower panel; a multimeter.

What about a heating element that will not shut off? That is F7 E2 on the older tables; see the F7 E2 page.

Unplug the dishwasher and let the element cool before you touch it

Do not run a dry heated cycle to test the element

Whirlpool dishwasher code F6 E1

The user interface or main control reported an error; on the older tables, the dishwasher will not fill

Check whether the console responds and whether the tub fills.

Cycle power; on an older unit, clear the float and the inlet screen before replacing a valve or board. Power reset only (30 seconds).

• A user interface or main control error (current generation): F6 E1 appears and the console behaves oddly or is unresponsive. Cycle the power for 30 seconds; Whirlpool says to call for service if the code remains
• An item stuck under the overfill float (older tables): The dishwasher will not fill and the float is held up. Look under the overfill float and remove any item
• A clogged water inlet valve screen: The supply is on but little water comes in. Shut the supply and unplug the dishwasher, disconnect the supply line and check the screen
• A failed water inlet valve or control board: The screen is clear, water flows to the valve and the tub still does not fill. The table says the wiring comes first, then the inlet valve or the electronic control board

Whirlpool's current page for F6 E1 names a user interface error or the main control, asks for a 30-second power cycle, and says to call for service if the code remains.

The older tables read F6 E1 as a dishwasher that will not fill. Check for an item stuck under the overfill float; if the float sticks in the up position the dishwasher will not fill.

Unplug the dishwasher and shut the water supply valve, disconnect the supply line from the inlet valve and check the valve screen. The table says to replace the water valve if the screen is clogged, because debris can get into the valve body and make it stick open. If the screen is clear, put the end of the supply line in a shallow pan and briefly open the supply; if no water flows, have a plumber repair the supply.

If water flows, check the wiring on the inlet valve, reconnect loose wires or replace a damaged harness, and if the wires are okay replace the water inlet valve or the electronic control board.

Water inlet valve; wire harness; electronic control board.

A shallow pan, a screwdriver or nut driver, and pliers for the supply line.

Why do the two disagree? They describe different generations of the code table; check your model's tech sheet.

Can a clog cause a flood? The older table warns that a clogged inlet screen can let debris into the valve body and make it stick open.

What is 6-2 or F6 E2? The older tables call it a water inlet valve failure; see the fill valve page.

Do KitchenAid and Maytag dishwashers share this? Yes, on the same platform.

Shut off the water supply and unplug the dishwasher before you disconnect the supply line

Have a plumber repair a supply line that does not flow when you test it into a pan

Whirlpool dishwasher code F7 E2

A wash motor error; on the older tables, a heating element that will not shut off

Run a cycle and listen for circulation after the fill.

Cycle power; arrange wash-motor service if the code returns, or replace the control board on an older unit that heats without stopping. Power reset only (30 seconds).

• A wash motor error that a reset clears (current generation): F7 E2 appears once and circulation returns after a power cycle. Cut the power for 30 seconds and run a cycle; Whirlpool says to schedule service if the code returns
• A wash motor that does not run or circulate: The dishwasher fills but you hear no circulation afterward. Run a cycle and listen for the wash motor after the fill
• A heating element that will not shut off (older tables): The water keeps heating and the dishwasher is hot to the touch. The older tables say to shut off the power for 5 minutes and, if the code resumes, replace the electronic control board

Whirlpool's F7 E2 page names a wash motor error and asks for a 30-second power cycle; if the code returns, schedule service.

Run a short cycle and listen for water circulating after the fill; a silent or humming motor is the fault Whirlpool describes.

The older MicroClean HE and Global HE tables read F7 E2 as a heating element that will not shut off; shut off power for 5 minutes and replace the electronic control board if the code resumes when you restore power.

Electronic control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver for the toe panel.

Which is my dishwasher? Check the tech sheet behind the bottom front toe panel; the older tables cover the MicroClean HE and Global HE dishwashers.

Is F7 E1 related? On the older tables F7 E1 is a heating element that does not work; see the heating page.

Unplug the dishwasher and let it cool if it is overheating

Do not run a dry cycle to test the wash motor

Whirlpool dishwasher code F9 E1, F8 E1, F8 E3

A long drain; on the older tables the diverter position, a slow drain, or a drain pump stuck on

Check the drain hose for kinks and the filter for a clog.

Clear the hose, disposer and filter, then test the pump and diverter as the older tables describe.

• A dirty filter: The dishwasher drains slowly and the filter has never been cleaned. Remove the filter and clean it thoroughly under running water, as Whirlpool says
• A kinked, pinched or clogged drain hose: The hose from the back of the dishwasher to the sink is bent or squashed. Check the hose along its whole run and straighten it
• A garbage disposer knockout plug left in, or a clogged disposer or air gap: The dishwasher is new or was reconnected and drains poorly. Confirm the knockout plug was removed from the disposer inlet and clear any food in the disposer or air gap
• Excess suds: Foam is visible in the tub when the door opens. Turn the dishwasher off and let the suds dissipate; use only automatic dishwasher detergent
• A diverter fault (F9 E1 on the older tables): The washing is patchy and the code is F9 E1 on an older unit. The older tables say the control cannot detect the position of the diverter disc; check the diverter motor wiring

Whirlpool says to remove the filter and clean it thoroughly under running water before resuming the cycle.

Check for a kinked, pinched or clogged hose from the back of the dishwasher to the sink; if a disposer is connected, ensure it is clear and the knockout plug was removed on a new installation; if an air gap is used, follow its maker's instructions for removing the cap and clearing blockages. Verify the drain hose is routed on the correct side, inside the frame.

Whirlpool asks for a 30-second power cycle, then to check whether the code returns before resuming the cycle.

For F9 E1 (diverter position) the older tables say to unplug the dishwasher, check the wiring to the diverter motor, reconnect loose wires or replace the harness, and replace the diverter motor if the wiring is intact. For F8 E1 (slow drain) check the drain path, then the pump wiring, then replace the drain pump. For F8 E3 (drain pump stuck on, Global HE) check the pump wiring and replace the harness if damaged, then the control board.

Drain pump; diverter motor; wire harness; electronic control board.

A screwdriver or nut driver, a bucket and towels.

What is a knockout plug? A plug in the garbage disposer inlet that must be removed before the dishwasher drain connects; Whirlpool asks you to confirm it on a new installation.

How often should the filter be cleaned? Occasionally; Whirlpool says the dishwasher should be cleaned about every 30 days.

Unplug the dishwasher before you clean the filter deep in the tub or check the pump wiring

Shut off the water before you disconnect the drain hose from the disposal

Whirlpool dishwasher code F9 E2, F9 E3, F9 E4

A drain motor error; on the older tables a diverter motor stuck on, a missing diverter disc, or a lower spray arm error

Confirm the garbage disposer knockout plug was removed on a new installation.

Clear the drain, then check the pump, diverter disc and spray arm.

• A garbage disposer knockout plug still in place (new installation): The dishwasher is new and the code appears at the first drain. Confirm the plug was removed from the disposer inlet
• A clog in the disposer or drain: Food is caught in the disposer or the drain line. Check the disposer and drain for clogs and run the disposer
• A kinked or wrongly routed drain hose: The hose is bent or on the wrong side of the frame. Straighten the hose and verify its routing inside the frame
• A diverter fault (F9 E2, F9 E3, F9 E4 on the older tables): The washing is patchy and the code is one of these on an older unit. Follow the older-table steps listed further down this page

Whirlpool's F9 E2 page names a drain motor error and asks you to ensure the garbage disposer knockout plug has been removed on a new installation.

Check the disposer and drain for clogs, straighten the drain hose if it is kinked (a kinked or clogged hose causes poor drainage or none) and verify the hose is routed correctly, on the correct side, inside the frame. Cycle the power; if the error returns, schedule service.

The older tables read F9 E2 as a diverter motor stuck on because the diverter relay on the electronic control board is defective: unplug the dishwasher and replace the board.

For F9 E3 (diverter disc missing) remove the dishracks and the lower spray arm, pull out the TurboZone manifold and the feed tube, remove the pump outlet, check the diverter disc and replace it if broken or missing. For F9 E4 (MicroClean HE lower spray arm error) remove anything blocking the lower spray arm, check the wiring on the lower spray arm motor, which is a component of the diverter motor, and replace the diverter motor if the wiring is intact.

Electronic control board; diverter disc; diverter motor; wire harness.

A screwdriver or nut driver; towels.

Unplug the dishwasher before you remove the racks and spray arm to reach the diverter

Shut off the water before you disconnect the drain hose

Whirlpool dishwasher code FA E4, F10 E4, FA E5, F10 E5

A diverter valve error, or a diverter leak

Note whether only part of the rack is being washed.

Cycle power; arrange diverter service if the code returns.

• A diverter valve error that a reset clears: The code appears once and washing is normal afterward. Cut the power for 30 seconds, as Whirlpool says
• A diverter valve that does not move: Only part of the rack is being washed each cycle. Note which rack stays dirty after a full cycle
• A recurring diverter valve failure: The code returns again after the 30-second power cycle is done. Arrange service if it keeps returning, as Whirlpool says
• A diverter leak (FA E5, F10 E5): Water shows under the dishwasher and the code is FA E5 or F10 E5. Check for leaks under the dishwasher and make sure every water connection is secure, as Whirlpool says

Whirlpool's page names a diverter valve error and asks for a 30-second power cycle: unplug the dishwasher, or turn its breaker off, for 30 seconds.

Run a cycle and look at which rack is being washed; a diverter that does not move leaves one rack dirty.

For FA E5 or F10 E5 Whirlpool names a diverter leak: check for leaks under the dishwasher, ensure all water connections are secure, press the Cancel key twice and try to start a new cycle. Stop using the dishwasher and shut off the water if water is present under it.

Whirlpool publishes no repair beyond the reset and the leak checks, so a returning code is for a technician.

FA E4, F10 E4, FA E5 or F10 E5.

None by Whirlpool.

None.

What do FA E4 and F10 E4 mean? Whirlpool names a diverter valve error.

Are they the same? Whirlpool lists them together on one page.

What do FA E5 and F10 E5 mean? Whirlpool names a diverter leak: check under the dishwasher for water, make sure connections are secure, press Cancel twice and start a new cycle.

Unplug the dishwasher before you open any panel

Arrange service for a code that returns after the reset